yosemite ice?

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BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 29, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
Micronut - was in Little Yosemite Valley Tuesday doing some recon on the waterfall ice west of Bunnell Point. It was balmy warm in the sun. It's been warmer since so maybe there is more open water on the Merced than noted below.

BTW - climbed Snake Dike on 10/9/11 in the afternoon sun and found the top of the descent down the cables to be pretty iced-up. Attentiveness recommended.


Open water?? There were patches of open water out away from the river bank...


-and this-


Other stretches like this:


It has been warmer, so there's probably lots more open water now...


climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Dec 30, 2011 - 11:21am PT
RE: drug dome route, climbed it yesterday along with...yes 3 other parties. Route is still in pretty good shape but warmth is taking its toll.


YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Dec 31, 2011 - 05:41pm PT
Drove past Drug Dome at 1:00 on the 31st, and my car thermometer said 48º. Didn't see anyone on it, which is probably good.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Jan 3, 2012 - 01:28am PT
drove over 120 today...

2 guys had a TR set up on the ice just below Ellery Lake. Approach from 120 to top of this ice is about hmmm...45 seconds?

Drug Dome looked pretty wet and thin from the road (but it looks that way in photos upthread on the day people climbed it)

Photo from parking area for Pywiack. This ice also looked pretty wet and thin in spots

solo'd this pretty little icefall just east of Yosemite Creek, probably WI zero but some nice ice and fun to strap on the crampons and swing the old CFBPs.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 3, 2012 - 02:49am PT
Maybe not this year, but BMcC's Vernal photo gives hope for an FA one day. Like, the icicles on either side of the flowing water would only need to extend a little farther down, to provide a continuous path from bottom to top.
bpope

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 6, 2012 - 03:01am PT
Any chance that anyone's got more recent beta? Was thinking of exploring LIttle Yosemite this weekend...
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Jan 8, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
Just went ice climbing for my first time today at Lee Vining! I'm so hooked!

I have everything, but axes. If anyone is looking for a partner (experienced alpinist, trad/bigwall climber, but ice newbie) hit me up! I'm roadtripping until the 16th.

Gene

climber
Jan 12, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Curious... Does the Gunsight ever offer ice/mixed at an easy rating?

g
Specialblend

Sport climber
Thousand Oaks
Jan 17, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Can anyone report current conditions in the canyon? Looks like there might finally be weather moving in at the end of the week. How is access to Ellery Falls if Tioga road ends up closed? Thanks all!
Specialblend

climber
Thousand Oaks
Jan 17, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Thank you for the beta Cragman. Is Roadside in June Lake still out?
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Jan 17, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
Climbed Drug Dome last Wednesday and it was still good. It's getting thinner but I think it'll hang in there for another couple weeks. Our line next to "Fuel Rod" is officially done.

Lee Vining Cyn is good but limited climbs have coverage.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 17, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Does the Gunsight ever offer ice/mixed at an easy rating?
Pretty sure the only flowing water in there is when it rains.
Specialblend

climber
Thousand Oaks
Jan 18, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
Roadside has some top-ropable ice.

Glad to hear it. Is Horseshoe Falls in at all? Trying to figure out the best options for my trip next week. Appreciate the information!
jedster

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 30, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
Since the pass has closed, and the buzz over high country ice has quieted, it seems fitting to give a final shout out to those unique and appreciated conditions. What an ice season we had through December and the first half of January. Don't get me wrong, I'm psyched to have snow to ski on and smooth the approach to LVC (where, incidentally, ice contiinues to grow... the Main Wall should be good to lead any day now...), but we sure made the most of those dry conditions. I told a skiing and climbing buddy, "we're probably not getting any snow because we're having too much fun on the ice. We should be sulking more".

What does the Valley ice look like lately? Anything at all?

Check out this video from the Cloud's Rest ice. Pardon the "salesy" intro... it really is just a story. We climbed the day the pass closed. The ranger let us out, and closed the gate behind us. I bet the warm storm renewed some of the water flow, replacing the ice where we "climbed" rock. Someone get adventurous and get in there again. [Click to View YouTube Video]
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 31, 2012 - 01:31am PT
Wi3+ C2 M2? : ) very nice video. tool idea is hilarious.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2012 - 09:48am PT
The key to the route for us was climbing it when it was fat.

next time hike from the point

good job
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Feb 2, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Here's from my first time ice climbing, Jan 9, 2012. I don't recall the name of this fall. It is one of the first ones when hiking up LV Canyon. My buddy Ted had rolled his ankle the day before and didn't feel up to leading it. So we scrambled up to the rapp slings, rapped to the 3 bolt anchor, and set a full pitch top rope.

It was crazy that we rock climbed in the Gorge without shirts, skied Mammoth another day, then went ice climbing another day....all within an hour's travel of each other.


And a video of me on my second day. I'm hooked! However, too bad I live on the west side of the Sierras. :(

[Click to View YouTube Video]
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 4, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Widow's tears on 1/3/13. Apparently an attempt happening as this iphoto was taken


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:12am PT
WOW! Would be super exciting to hear their story!


I looked at this report bellow at least 3 times!
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Looks like WI 4+
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