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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 12, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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Low angle stone delivers. Adventure, commitment, and most often quality. Some of the best days I've ever had climbing were stinkbuggin' on clean, smooth swaths of beautiful granite.
Especially when you cast off with a holstered hammer and fresh bits.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 12, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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I like slabbyness.
So what is slab? I've debated with various partners on this one before. I generally consider slab(at least on granite) to be anything less than vertical that doesn't climb a crack & has micro features & sh#t feet u need to stand on the whole time. Others would call this face for some reason & argue that slab is pure friction.
Is slab climbing defined by the angle of the rock or the style of movement? Or both?
Case in point, I call this slab? Do u?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 13, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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Hey Kenny, Great shots! Is Arm and Hammer one of yours? Don't have my guide book handy here. Where is it?
Tony
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 13, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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great shot of skiippy! thanks ken.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
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May 13, 2013 - 09:36am PT
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This is a great thread ... and the humor injected throughout ... awesome.
Great photos... some of them take my breath away!
~peace
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 13, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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Thanks Tony,
Arm and Hammer is near Olmetead point along with a handful of other routes not in any guidebooks.
Calaveras Dome is slab climbing heaven. Connect the dots climbing on diorite knobs and chicken heads that vary in size from peanuts to pumpkins.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 13, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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slabolicious climbing located in L.A.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 13, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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UberBabs slabbin' in Josh...
Guy Keesee slabbin' at Dome Rock on Red Mushrooms...
Another good route on Dome Rock. Yaniro FA...
Gettin' skeered on a slab. That's John Stark belaying...
Slabbin' bitd...
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gilly
climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
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May 14, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Richard Richardson - AKA DICK or Skippy to his comrads could climb more than just slab, but that was what he was very gifted at! Welcome was something else indeed in its day! He is always remembered to me for his vision and guts! Thanks Kenny
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 14, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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slab "O" liciouse!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 14, 2013 - 02:19am PT
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Damn, been many years Gilly. Good to hear from you. Skippy was one of the best on those no falls slab routes. Especially at Cal domes. He loved that place. Miss him.
"Welcome to my nightmare" 511.b X is still one of the most serious slab routes in the Sierras. As far as I know Welcome has only seen two repeats to this day. One by Chris Vandevier and the other by Todd Worsfold.
Mad World 511+ R/X is another beautiful but serious route down there. Skippy and myself swapped leads on the FA in 1984. eight pitches of steep slab climbing, hand drilled from stances in a day and a half. The only repeat in almost thirty years was done by Todd Worsfold in 1990.
That canyon is a Mecca for high quality slab routes. It's a shame that slab climbing has become largely a thing of the past.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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May 14, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 14, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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I don't know whether the Slab Daddy has entered the room, or knott.
Slab Daddy
Those hole drilling freaks have put up another big one, Oso Rodeo, which
is only about 19 pitches.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 14, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Jaywood is a badass slabber! That middle picture is him at the top of the fifth pitch of Deep Throat on the GPA a few weekends ago. He was so engrossed on sustained 5.9 pure (and I mean pure) friction that he combined two pitches (the fourth and fifth. I had to remind him to clip the fourth pitch belay!), ran it past the only bolt on the fifth (note the lack of gear between us in the pic), went past the fifth pitch belay and stopped only after I told him I had ten feet of rope left! Nothing but about 140' of squeeky clean granite between him and a huge whipper. Thus he created a direct variation from the fourth to the fifth pitch. Good job man.....That climb could definitely make it on to the hardest five ten list anywhere in the world.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 14, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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Field of Dreams - 5.11+R and Childhoods End - 5.12-R on Big Rock Candy Mtn. are about as good as it gets in Colorado.
http://mountainproject.com/v/106240773
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 21, 2014 - 03:36am PT
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... traversing the base of Middle Cathedral Rock.
--- I'm sure you could (climb) all the way to The Flakes and beyond....
A bouldering girdle of MCR would be awesome.
There was a similar (shorter for sure) traverse at the top of Swan Slab.
That was enough for me.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Dec 21, 2014 - 08:59am PT
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Kenny, thanks for the picture of Dick Richardson - slab master! I miss him too!!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 21, 2014 - 09:21am PT
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Cool thread; I've already "wasted" houres on it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 21, 2014 - 10:20am PT
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