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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2011 - 01:05am PT
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Fixed that one!
William the Conquerer came over from the Glacier Point Road...
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50
climber
Stumptown
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Jun 28, 2011 - 01:09am PT
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July 31, 1973
Chouinard Herbert
Rupert Kammerlander
Craig MacKay
NIce to see this reference to an old acquaintance. Craig MacKay taught me how to climb and, more importantly, how to appreciate the mountains. I was 13 years old and signed up for his week-long climbing class in the Cathedral Peak area near Tuolumne Meadows - also in the summer of 1973. I believe the organization that offered the class back then was called the Wilderness Center located in San Jose, California. Not sure what happened to Craig over the years or some of the other climbers associated with the organization. Great thread. Thanks for posting Steve.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 01:15am PT
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Mighty - you missed the 7-7-76 entry of ST contributor Stephen McCabe on the Steck-Salathe with Frank Brown III
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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May 16, 1959
Spiral Staircase
Sherman Lehman (math prof. UCB)
Willy Rorden (?)
Bob Kincheloe (?)
Hugh De Witt (has an office down the hall from me... I'll ask him tomorrow)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2011 - 01:50am PT
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Corrections/additions made. And if Ed can persuade his colleague to post up, I'll add another.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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Ed,
Thanks for finding that in the notes before I did. The rope barely grazed one of the old hand made hangers somewhere above the narrows and it broke off right across the carabiner hole. I'm pretty sure I was leading and had skipped clipping it. Frank had scouted the descent up and down several times ahead of time and that was handy for saving time on the way down.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Jun 28, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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Also nice to see the entry from Rupert Kammerlander (sniff)
The epitome of enthusiasm.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jun 28, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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Wow, how cool!
Jim Wilson and I must have missed the register in 8/74 when we did our first grade V (Steck Salathe).I would have spent an hour or so perusing it. I love old summit registers.
I'm glad RV and I found it.
In '74 we were both 16 yrs. old. I see quite a few young entries. Mr. Ament, how old were you the first time?
Bruce Carson was a great clean inspiration.
Saw Hensel in there, forgot he beat us to it.
Mighty, you could add Hennie to the ST list.
edit: Oops DH, you were in 9/26/74, beat'cha by a month!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
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I don't know if Hugh will post, he climbed with the Stanford Alpine Club from 1948-1951, and he would go out with them when he visited California, that entry was on one of the visits. He is still good friends with Sherman Lehman.
He was quite delighted to see the register record now 50+ years later.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
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dee ee: Darrel Hensel?
I wonder how many SuperTopians made ascents of Sentinel via technical routes up to 1976, but aren't in the register?
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Gene
climber
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Jun 28, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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Slightly off topic, but....
Why has the West Face of Sentinel lost its popularity in recent years?
g
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jun 28, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
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Hey Mighty, how goes it, eh?
Yes, it is Darrel Hensel, AKA The Master, AKA The Rooster...AKA The Chicken....not sure about that last one.
When I started my Big Wall life there was the list in the coffin in Camp 4 that documented clean routes and walls. Then soon after came the Bruce Carson article. People still were seen carrying piton racks around.
All the first big wall routes that I did clean were some of the ones he did first. I repeated the ones he did before discovering the awesomeness of where the piton could take you, i.e. the most exposure packed locations in Yosemite.
The first clean ascent of Watkins took clean to a new level but the movement kinda' ended there.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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Great thread!
The Valley really was Mecca to a teenager from Utah back in the 60'S. I had my introduction to big walls, pot and acid there, and my world expanded beyond my wildest fantasies. I soon discovered that the drugs were unnecessary, but the climbs were essential.
-JelloDigsSentinelRock
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 29, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Photo bump...
Bonnie Kamps took this picture in 1959 or 60. She passed a copy along to me with the idea it might belong on this thread.
Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert and Dave Rearick are watching a party climbing the Sentinel.
Special thanks to Peter Haan for a great restoration job on this image.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 29, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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Is Yvon wearing suspenders with his shorts?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 29, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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When I started my Big Wall life there was the list in the coffin in Camp 4 that documented clean routes and walls.
-----
I remember that too, Dave. We all wanted to get a first clean ascent and went to extremes to get one. A really proud one was Ricky A., Tobin S., and Gib L.'s clean and mostly free ascent of Watkins, with only the old Hexes and Stoppers.
The first time I did the Steck/Salathe with Jim Orey in 1972, we used a few pins on the headwall, and the next year on the West Face, with Kim Schmitz, we drove a pin or two on that expando flake. Doing total clean ascents BITD on the old nuts could be harrowing.
My first trip up El Cap, Ron Fawcett and I used hand placed, tied off pitons, and that felt plain wrong. But I went with it all the way to the pitch off Camp 6, and I banged a few home.
It's really a shame that the glacier didn't do a little more work on the left side of Sentinel. A couple splitters over there - instead of the incipient grooves that dominate that face - would have been helpful and welcomed.
JL
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 10:11pm PT
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Regarding Dave Dornan, I was in touch with him a little over 3 years ago. He is living in Michigan and his email at that time was dornand@hotmail.com
I'm attaching a photo of him from 1958.
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