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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Feb 16, 2013 - 02:27am PT
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Up there in that neighborhood from this past weekend...
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 16, 2013 - 03:49am PT
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Awesome adventure and report Bruce. Almost makes me want to give up all this warm rock climbing down here. Met Big Mike tonight, really nice guy and yes he is BIG!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 16, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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SW starts up the arete, moves out on the slab, goes up the middle of the slab on awesome rock as far as the snowfield, and then finishes up left of the arete above the snowfield
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perswig
climber
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Feb 16, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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Can you guys keep it down over there with the beautiful new lines, 45deg facet death, gunfire, Tami's ass, pubes, etc? Some of us are trying to get some work done.
TIA.
Dale
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paulb
climber
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Bruce, Did you get close enough to make any observations of the "cornice of doom" to which Oplopanax refers?
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Now, that pube banter is solid gold. Looks like the sled assist to Athelstan makes that approach easier in the winter than it is in the summer, eh? Though I confess those summer photos look more like my cup of tea these days.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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KNight + Lady, NW face = too of the many Chilliwack mini-Eigers
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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You notice there isn't any cornice on the N face of Lady though?
Sadly the main line there goes halfway up and then sideways. Like a weasel.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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I'm not sure if I would trust a sled on the lake ice for much longer.
There you go again. Fukkin kids today.
As long as there's more ice than water, the sled is fine. If there's more water than ice, then you put the sled in a boat for the open water parts, and tow the boat behind the sled for the ice parts.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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Probbly tell me I need double o slugs for the polar bears too.
After that comment I won't be calling you a fukkin kid anymore. That'd be giving you to much credit. Fukkin wussy is more like it.
All Ryan and I had to deal with the bear was our ski poles, and we did just fine.
But that was back when men were dirtbags and the polar bears knew who to stay away from.
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MH2
climber
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Good reminder of the dangers, Bruce. Watch out crossing the 'creeks', too.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 24, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Hey Ghost!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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Hey Ghost!
Right here, looking at your photo. And since you're calling me, I assume there's some connection, but...
Is it something I should recognize? Something I climbed? You're going to have to toss me a few more clues. Real obvious clues.
Sure is fine looking, whatever it is.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 24, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Is that in the Illusion area?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 10:56am PT
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Is that in the Illusion area?
Oplo titled his photo "I love the smell of Grauniad in the morning", and Grauniad is what a lot of people call The Guardian (British newspaper), because it had a reputation for typos, and Guardian Peak is at the north end of the Rexford group. Not exactly the Chehalis, but the subject of quite a few posts in this thread.
Dick Mitten and I once climbed a little four-pitch gem up out of the notch at the south end of the big cirque below Guardian Peak and Disillusion Peak, and the whole time we had the view of the walls in the cirque. Pretty spectacular. I never got on it, but Peder and (I think) Craig Thompson had a big-wall adventure in there.
So, putting it all together, I imagine that the picture is of some part of Guardian Peak, although I don't recognize it -- it's been over thirty years since I last saw it.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jul 24, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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^^^
Yup
Opo au chevaling to North Illusion
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 24, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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See, according to the Fairley guide the Harris/Mitten route goes right up the middle of those slabs somewhere. Must be something lost in translation.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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Must be something lost in translation.
No, Bruce's English was pretty good. But like I said, it's been around thirty years...
So is your photo taken from the Disillusion Notch (I think that's what it's called) looking east at the slab that rises up maybe 400 ft or so?
I just remember that we started up the face, and everywhere we put our hands or feet there was just the right hold, the day was glorious, and it was almost as if we were being lifted up the thing. We called it Lunar Gravity because it felt like we'd been granted a temporary exemption from Earth gravity.
I tried to go back in there about fifteen years ago, but the logging road that ziz-zagged to where the approach started had grown over with slide alder so thick it was almost impassible. We chugged on up anyway, but soon were deluged with pouring rain, so didn't even get up to the notch.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 25, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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It's from South Illusion looking north at the south face of Guardian. I have some other shots from other trips but the morning light was right to shadow all the dihedrals this time.
The logging road you mention was brushed out for foot traffic a couple years ago, but you are still looking at about a 3 hr walk from the end of the driveable road to get to Disillusion Notch.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 25, 2013 - 11:49am PT
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Here's a crappy shot of the Ourom/Thompson btw
5.9 A3 12 pitches, looks like it would go in less pitches with modern ropes, but the A3 looks like kbs in tight corners down on the low pitches. Pretty clean, some lichen though. In the shadows almost all day.
Starts off a transient snowpatch currently with some big cracks. Might be better to wait for that to slide or melt out
Seems like there is a great bivi ledge a few pitches below the summit with free or freeable above that.
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