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Ropeburn
Trad climber
Riverside, CA
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Jan 31, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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Well, reading all of this is very entertaining. John - if you're project is a future book, I guess you can forget it cuz it's all here for free. Great stuff.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I came on to 'Stonemaster conciousness' well after the fact.
First time I ran into Mark Wilford was about spring '80(?). We bouldered with him, by chance in Vedauwoo. He had lightning bolts inked on his eb's.
"Hoh man, no wonder he climbs so well, check out the stonemaster ebs," my buddy, John Wilke, said.
"Hunh?" I replied.
Years later, the year of the first five tennie approach shoes. A young Chris Raypole and almost even younger Jaybro roped up at the base of Valhalla.
"So those guys climbed this to get the title?"
"Soloed it, I heard."
"Yeah, well belay me."
"Cool."
We climbed the first two pitches in fear, mishap and trepidation. The climbing, however, was clean, so we hung at the belay switched into our 'coolguy' 'tenies and partook of a sacrament we had been led to believe was part of the whole stonemaster thing. I was out of practice for the "joys of cannabis," as Fritz the Cat™ called it, but since that was the time and place for it, I could do no less.
'Zonies get good sh#t.
As luck would have it, this would be my lead.
With kaya in my head, laced but not tied shoes on my feet ("rubber's stickey, what else could matter") and a vague memory of the topo (lower fifth/maybe fourth class climbing) in my blotted head, I set out on lead and (wrongly)hung a hard right.
... and became more and more scared, especially after I traversed into some climb (5.10 I later determined)(with at this point ~a fifty foot runout) just above a seemingly critical bolt. Scared to death, I climbed to a belay (might have clipped bolts before the belay, having seen god below, I just don't recall) and belayed my partner up.
"Well, mr Anderson THAT was interesting," said a wide-eyed mr Raypole.
Though we missed the stonemaster era, we tried, in our own, lame, scary, and uninformed way, to experience it.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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jaybro that is sick.
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Tom Hanson
Trad climber
Castle Rock, CO
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I have a hazy recollection from the summer of 80?
Yabo had borrowed a bicycle from some kid at C4.
It was one of those old precursors to todays mountain bike, kind of a fat tire beach cruiser.
He proceeded to carry it up, and then attempt to ride down, a talus slope!
He kept taking headers, then geting back on and continuing down until he made the bottom.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Roger, thanks. I haven’t wallowed in this much nostalgia since Yosemite’s Woodstock- the dedication of Camp 4 as a historic site a few years ago.
Todd Gordon’s story about Tobin’s influence on climbers in Australia reminded me of this one.
With the exception of Tobin, who did not like bouldering,, most of the group spent a lot of time on the boulders at Rubidoux, Hidden Valley, Baldy, Pirates Cove, Camp 4 and many other venues. In the mid seventies, Gramicci was one of the most talented of the lot, especially on high, scary problems, his specialty. One of Mike’s best efforts took place in 1976 and had an international impact. That summer, Mike and I went to the Alps to try our hand at alpine climbing and camped at Snell Field, the abode of the English speaking climbing world in Chamonix.
Within view of the entire campsite is the famous Pierre D’Orthaz, a solitary, glacier erratic with a rich climbing history. Imagine Camp 4 with only a single, highly- featured, 15- foot high boulder near it and you can understand how the D’Orthaz was, bar-none, the most sought after summit in the self-proclaimed World Capital of Alpinism (don’t argue, it says so on billboards as you enter Chamonix). Celebrated Briticsh climbers, such as Allen Rouse, had established first ascents on it, and it had felt the touch of every prominent British climber from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.
Mike found a right-slanting line of holds on the overhanging north face, worked out a sequence to move his hands to the highest holds on the slanting weakness, and heel-hooked a left leg high near his hands. He then dispatched an improbable, diagonal, dynamic move up and right to a flat hold near the top of the boulder. The key was to hang on after the legs swung free, but Mike managed it and established what the Brits dubbed the “American Leaping Route.” Almost 30 years later, Scottish guide Cubby Cuthbertson (recently seen as the stunt double in the recreated climbing scenes in “Touching the Void”) cited it in his online climbing column as one of his early inspirations.
Gramicci could truly, in Largo terms, “Crank like a Fiend.”
PS. the next year, 1977, Rob Muir snagged the most technically difficult line on the D’Orthaz, the low traverse, probably a first or early ascent of this route.
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paulj
climber
utah
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Piton Ron, re: Randy Grandstaff
Randy started climbing very young, pre-teen, I think, but definitely by the time he was in high school. I had history class with him as a freshman at Gorman High in Las Vegas. Every once in a while the guy would show up on a Monday with greasy hair, totally filthy, and stinking. Of course, no one wanted to sit near the freaky kid, and I remember the teacher commenting one time that Randy needed to show better respect for himself and his classmates, or something like that. Turns out that these were the days after he and Herbst or one of the other early RR guys (Matt ?) had gotten benighted on some climb and had to do the early morning race back to town to get Randy to class on time...
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tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
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As I rember it:
Largo and crew sitting at the top of Smooth Sole Wall at Suicide, mid 70s, staring down at me as I come to grips with the crux of Ultimatum. As a poor teenager, I've worn holes at the toe and ball of both EBs (and therefore my feet as well), and I'm madly edging with the outside edges of the shoes. The route at the time, as described in the Wilts little orange guide, was done straight up, but I'm thinking there's no way I'm gonna be able to do that, and I spot a large, inviting alternat knob, up and left, with some larger edges leading to it. So off left I shuffle to the knob, goofy footed as all get out. As I move on towards the top Largo opines as he gets ready to move on, "never seen it done that way" Was it the goofy edging or the easier variation he was talking about? Don't know, but the easier variation I worked out showed up in the next guide!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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paulj,
was that after Randy's cousin shot him in the ass with a .22mag ?
Three months later he was fully recovered and at a family get together he beat the crap out of his cousin while the parents stood back refusing to interfere saying,"Uh uh. He had it coming."
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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JL, I want to try and explain what I mean(or meant) by saying something like "my route" or wanting the "glory" of an FA.
None of the climbers that I have ever done FAs with were motivated by wanting glory or fame. We have always joked about it though, it's sort of an unavoidable byproduct. People come up to you years later and say "thanks for putting up such a cool route." Sometimes it's "dude, what a gritty pile." Either way I enjoy the comment. It was and is about the experience, always has been.
It is hard not to feel a sence of ownership though. I see a line and think "damn, I've got to climb that!" I will dream about it and obsess about it indefinitely until "my project" is in the past. Then I will rarely give it a second thought. Except when I hear that it has had bolts added. That is irritating. I feel like a small piece of performance art has had tomatoes thrown at it. It has been violated, soiled or blemished.
The other thing I want to mention is on the subject of the "interloper." Since it is about the experience, it is about being there for the WHOLE experience. I like to see things through from the beginning to the end. It's the play, not the act, it's the movie, not the scene, it's the whole enchilada.
CF had a very irritating habit of going along but not hanging out and sharing the work of the project. We would find the project and someone would make the first probe, figure out a section, maybe place a bolt or two and then turn the lead over to someone else. Meanwhile C is off raking in solos, birding, looking for arrowheads, doing whatever, too impatient to hang. Then as soon as someone tops out there he is demanding his turn, often stepping on the toes of someone who may have belayed for 4 hours or assisted in some fashion. Often it's just "the girlfriend" or someone who is a little unsure (of their ability to follow) that he can demean like this without feeling any guilt. The person that sat there and sliced oranges has priority status in the followers hierarchy over the "Jonny come lately."
You seem to imply that the Stonemaster's valued maximum vertical mileage over what I would call the "experience." I'm not sure I believe that.
I understand how Randy and Brian felt when they decided to exclude you from the FA info on that route in Steve Cyn. It has less to do with hoarding the glory than the feeling that you weren't really "there."
"The business of who got credit for this or that was seconary to the thrill of the climbing itself." I couldn't agree with you more. It's always been that way, for us as well.
Climb on,
DE
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Googling "Stonemasters Yosemite" and "Stonemasters Joshua" each turns up five pages of web hits and a few in google groups...
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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One thing I remember that summer in France was the free climbing scene was just sitting there waiting to happen. Rick, if you can remember that boulder problem you’ll surely remember the pondering looks we got while climbing in the south of France. Weather was so perfect all you needed was a head band (silk) and a pair of shorts. Of coarse also the Boots and a light rack were handy. All the routes seemed to have at least a short section of aid, even if you were just suppose to grab a pin or two. An interesting style that came about from the necessity of climbing fast in the higher mountains but we couldn’t see the point since they typically went free at a moderate clip. A few heads spun as we wandered up all these great lines. It could have been the precursor to their coining the red point or even the red circle. A good way for them to move forward or justify the past without destroying all their great history.
mg
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hi Rick, good to hear your 'voice.'
Your comment about the Camp 4 dedication strikes a real nerve. I got several calls asking me to come. But, I was too dense to realize how much fun it would be to see everyone. I watched the video and instantly regretted blowing it off.
Your story about Mike's flying ability also takes me back. On the free ascent of the center route on Phantom Pinnacle, he lunged past a blank section on the first pitch. Took him about 30 seconds to size it up and finish it off. I didn't let out the rope fast enough--who knew he would really lunge--and almost pulled him off. It was the first time I had ever seen a lunge on a lead.
I hope all is well with you. ST is sort of a cool place to hang out with so many Valley climbers posting up. Hanging out, wasting time, but cool nonetheless.
Best, Roger
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Mr Long, sir
I am afraid I owe you a personal apology for a transgression that occured more than 25 years ago. It was December 1980 in Las Vegas You wanted to rip off my head and crap down my throat. We were all gathered at the Urioste house over by the old Show Boat. You were there with Lynn and I was the Colorado punk kid hanging with Newberry and Geoff the "Madman". I had just returned from an accident in Morocco and was recovering from a total knee reconstruction. My best friend while serving over seas was a cool cat from California named Steve Long. Steve oftened talked about his super strong brother the climber. I never made any particular connection until I was layed up in the hospital and the latest climbing rag d'jour had an article of yours about a climb called Moroccan Roll. Now when I say Steve was a cool cat I mean this dude could roll up the most amazing moroccan 'mixed' blend cones you have ever layed eyes or flames upon. So, I ask you, what was I to think while coming out of a morphine haze? I know that by the time I ran into you in Nevada I was so convinced that he was refering to you that I was willing to "take it to the mat" to convince you I had met your brother. I thought that your denial of even having a brother was probably because Steve was on the lam after not quite making it thru customs. It really pissed me off that you wouldn't accept that I was really his friend. Now at that time you out weighed me by about three stone of solid muscle and I was a twig awaiting snapage. But, I had the courage of conviction of my assumption and I wouldn't let it go. It started getting heated and you must have really wanted me to shut up. Fortunately for me Madman was also a walking eclipse and in a fit of pity for the fool he got between us. I have to confess that I thought you were such a Mules' O-ring. Later I found out the whole, real, story and I felt, to say the least, quite embarresed. I never crossed paths with you again so consequently I never had the chance to appologize for being such an ass. So here goes... I am sorry! Oh and thanks for leaving my head attached to my shoulders it has really been usefull over the years. Without it I could never have appreciated the quality of your writting.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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What's that great Patsy Cline somg? Sweet Dreams?
Grandstaff reported seeing numerous instances where JL would be sleeping deeply, then suddenly awaken, and from a ready pipe take a monstrous hit of weed, exhale a veritable smoke screen and then just as quickly be snoring again.
Then there was the time Randy showed up in Tokerville on a saturday evening with a certain Scottish orthopedist client in tow. They had just failed on Prodigal Sun, not surprising considering the doctor's girth and the minute remainder of a bottle of Tanqueray still left in play.
Before the evening was out I had to restrain Randy who had suddenly attempted to remove my 9mm from a tac-vest hangfing on the handlebars of a motorcycle in my living room. He was apparently unaware that it might be (and WAS) loaded.
He promptly stumbled outside and began thrashing the shrubbery attempting to vomit, taking little time to succeed. The shrubbery had never recovered although whether it was the thrashing or the vomit I know not.
Later he fell asleep in my front yard and I awoke late the following morning to find horrified mormons walking past my house on their way to church shielding their children's eyes while they gaped at the six foot plus guy with blond hair which pointed in various directions passed out face first in (yet another) pool of vomit with his pants either pulled half off or back on.
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Ron, refferring to the Grandstaff observed, Largo-trick; it's called "wake and bake". Almost always followed by another 3-4 hours of blissful sleep. I'm sure you've done it. And I can see those mor-mons now. What a sight!
Your story of the (loaded) nine reminds me of a similar personal story, the punchline of which is, of course, (friend): It's loaded? (a disgusted look of incredulity on his face)
me: Of course it is! What good is an unloaded gun?! Jeez!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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It was the speed with which the snoring resumed that was the remarkable issue.
Were it not for the aftermarket thumbsnap on the Bianchi UM84 the story might have had an ending similar to yours and my shack yet another AD hole.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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I had to check my records to get the exact date. It was October 12-13 1974 at Suicide Rock and it was THE STONEMASTER PARTY.
I remember very little except for a couple of things.
1) All routes on the Weeping Wall were climbed simultaneously. We did The Big Peach. The belays must have been crowded.
2) Robs Muir rappeling down the center of the wall face first (?) completely dressed in white, like some sort of religious icon!
3) I also climbed Hair Lip and Low Pressure with Jim Wood and others. Jim was variously nicknamed "Hard Wood" or "Balsa Wood" depending on his performance on the given day.
I need to get as much mileage on this thread as possible since I will be out of the office for a few weeks!
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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T'was reputedly reported that Rick Accomazzo said:
>PS. the next year, 1977, Rob Muir snagged the most technically difficult line on
>the D’Orthaz, the low traverse, probably a first or early ascent of this route.
What I remember about that Summer, with our California tents pitched below Pierre D'Orthaz, was the fun bouldering. We'd walk into town to check the weather and if it looked like crap up above, the weather in Chamonix would often be warm and sunny. Perfect excuse to boulder, instead...
While working-out the low traverse, I recall these three French kids. ...couldn't have been more than 16 years old, or so. Man, did they watch us intensely! One of 'em was a pretty credible boulderer, and he would join in the cycles of attempts. Never did see him do it, but after we started regularly repeating that problem, he'd be seen--over many days--trying and trying to do it too.
The thing that really struck me was this kid began to copy our dress and CA style. Right down to the bandana! We wore cut-off jeans, always had a chalkbag and each of us ALWAYS tied a rolled-up bandana on our brow to keep the hair under control. There was even a ritual to rolling that handkerchief! If it was colder, then the shorts became "dress whites" or beat-up sweat pants.
Rick said that no one in France had wore that headdress the season before, so we agreed that that Stonemaster trip affected an entire culture! Blame it on Gramicci...
Indeed, in subsequent seasons, the European climbers all started to look like they were all Valley regulars!
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WBraun
climber
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Yes it's true, a lot of the current fads came and still come out of California.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Oh yeah...
Right after Rick, Gib Lewis and I did the fifth (or sixth?) ascent of Brown's "The Great Wall" on Clogwyn dur Arddu in Wales, the two of them went over to Ken Wilson's house --then the Editor of Mountain Magazine. (Candi and I went off to see the sights of London, instead.)
Ken was a huge "clean" ethics advocate, and that included chalk. The stuff was an eyesore on popular gritstone areas, but we KNEW it made routes happen, and we could give-a-damn.
So, the first thing Wilson asked of Rick was "had we done it without chalk?" In response, Rick laughed and said, "Of course not!" "We always use chalk; it wouldn't be hard, otherwise."
Wilson said, "Damn. I could have made you stars!"
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