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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Mar 20, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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Every one has an as#@&%e, everyone has an opinion. Think I will take my chances with some one climbing with a rope above me rather than someone freesoloing a 5.13 above me. BTW...I don't smoke the stuff.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Mar 20, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
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The filming for the movie occurred after Alex did the climbs people!
Sorry, I believe the "staged" and "Honnold doing it for the cameras" and "Croft didn't arrange film coverage after his first solo of Astroman, like Honnold did for Half dome" talk needed to be clarified.
I think he does climbs for himself. He has nothing to prove.
Erik
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Mar 20, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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I think the guy is an incredible climber. I don't think soloing is a thing of "something to prove." I have nothing against Alex, as I am sure he is a great person. I respect the mental capacity and physical capability that it takes to freesolo a route, but I guess I don't fully understand risking your life for it.
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jstan
climber
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Mar 20, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
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Even though now dark, it is still a very nice day out there.
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Chief
climber
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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Ed Drummond on ST.. cool.
The mere thought of the Changing Corners unroped almost made me fall off the last time I was there. Hats off to Peter, Dean and Alex for that kind of composure. Moonlight Buttress and NW Half Dome unroped?
You just don't want to see that kind of pushing it end badly like it often does. I still haven't seen a climb worth dying for.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 21, 2010 - 01:29am PT
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"suck a phat 1"
lol
I just read all the posts in this thread and Aaron's is my favorite. Spoken like a true Monkey.
Other then that I'm pretty much with Werner and Peter Hann.
After watching Tommy work those Changing corners moves on video I think you'd have to be an idiot to solo the Nose.
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Mar 21, 2010 - 04:46am PT
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Ed, welcome. Thank you for getting everyone to talk about climbing for a change, and thank you for caring.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 21, 2010 - 11:19am PT
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Lambone say:
"After watching Tommy work those Changing corners moves on video I think you'd have to be an idiot to solo the Nose."
To me this is the most obvious giveaway, plausible deniability if you like, that the OP is not to be taken completely literally, it IS couched in generic terms, as KLK said it could/should have been. (Though it is quite sincere in its general appeal concerning free soloing, but proposed in a veiled subconscious way, as Werner said). The Nose is simply not on the block currently, while Free Rider certainly is and to that end we have fertile ground for discussion.
Yet, knowing full well how it feels when completely solid in cordless mode, (and suspecting Dean's well grounded understanding of Alex) I loved Bullwinkle's response:
"Yikes Ed, laying it on a bit thick don't you think? made me laugh. . .So I guess your post wasn't a complete waste of time. . . "
I enjoyed Dean's words, because, as Werner stated:
"Doesn't matter jack sh'it what anyone says here or anywhere, as it's all talk.
When you're the climber ready to go, ... all your own internal psych and spirit will dictate what you will ultimately do or not do, regardless of all the chatter from the outside world."
There are some details concerning other components of this discussion which have been brought forward, which relate to the core of Mr. Drummond's offering. That is, the community at large was not expecting, anticipating a free solo of New Dimensions, Nabisco Wall, or Astroman. Maybe The Rostrum.
Things have changed ...
Rich.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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Elevated Giant Slalom – a new winter sport for the 2014 Olympics in Sochi, Russia—promises excitement, a fast pace, a rugged course…and wipeouts.
"An electrifying sport for participants and spectators alike."
"You want crashes? You like a sport where the winner might well be the last one standing?"
Elevated Giant Slalom will be the sport to watch in 2014.
What is Elevated Giant Slalom?
Elevated Giant Slalom is based on combining free-solo rockclimbing and Giant Slalom skiing. The course is built on a 4 meter wide raised track. There are no rails, and no need for gates. Elevation above the ground is dependent on course layout, with fall heights of up to 225 meters. Skiers travel down the track with many features adapted from those found in Giant Slalom courses. The race requires skill, strength, mental certainty and physical endurance because of the demands of the course. Helmuts are optional. Skiers who fall off the track are disqualified.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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"Yikes Ed, laying it on a bit thick don't you think? made me laugh. . .So I guess your post wasn't a complete waste of time. . . "
Funny as hell til someone pitches into space from up there.....
Yet, knowing full well how it feels when completely solid in cordless mode
But how many people will EVER be solid on 5.14 Changing Corners?
About the same number of people stepping up to repeat Southern Belle I'd wager.
Things have changed ...
Hitting the ground hasn't changed.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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Lambone: What's he gunna do post a sign at the base?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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Good one Roger.
Remember Rollerball?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:38pm PT
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Which leads to the obvious Elevated Giant Slalom Cross event scheduled for the 2018 Olympics.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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I will be impressed as anyone if and when it gets done.
All I'm saying is that there is a limit to what the human form can do, and especially what the sponsors or the "community" thinks is the next step.
No one will ever dyno from the Grand Terrace of Half Dome and catch the visor, nor should we be encouraging the young bulls to try it.
I'm all for pushing the limits, but don't want to see guys dying trying to follow Alex's steps.
Hey Ed, are you too aloof to come back to the party you started?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 21, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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One OP = 159 responses. A good discussion. Hopefully Edwin will drop by again and add to his remarks.
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Swami Jr.
Trad climber
Bath, NY
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Mar 21, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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amen mighty hiker. Great post, great discussion. Ed knows what he knows, and Alex as well. Probably both are right even if they're in disagreement. I guess the best we can all hope for is that climbing is on a path we are proud of.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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Mar 21, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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There is an unacknowledged optional component of the leading edge soloists arsenal. It's called the backup party. I played this role for Croft and Fraser when they did the first cordless ascent of West Buttress of the South Howser Spire in the Bugaboos. (Chouinard Beckey route). There were 4 of us on the route that day, including the soloists, each well aware of the others, yet separated by an hour or two on the line.
Upon reflecting this thread, it's clear to me that Honnold is far smarter than Ed Drummond gives him credit for. What better way to incorporate the “backup party” failsafe plan into the ascent than to disguise them as the documentary film team.
It's also clear that Freerider is the prize of the next generation soloist. Quite simply there would be no smarter plan, than to plant Sender Films camera men AND supplies like water, food and bivy gear all over the route. The soloist would not even have to do the route in a single day to achieve a cordless ascent. Better to rest a night on a ledge before those steep upper pitches.
Recall in the Half Dome film, Honnold isn't even wearing a camelback. He's set a precedent for cordless ascents, and it's been accepted.
I think Honnold knows what Honnold is doing, better than anyone. He has plenty of resources at his disposal, including the “backup party”. He's a brilliant climber and also a crafty logistician .....
The appearance of doing it "for the cameras" is the viewers perspective, to Honnold they are part of his team.
It's a new genre, "supported cordless" ascents, which has cracked open the grade VI's. Ironically it's been enabled by video production.
Bravo Alex !
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 21, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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John's backup party got to him while he was still alive.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Mar 21, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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Caughtinside: "Yes, let's tell people how they should climb."
Consumers of sports entertainment do that every time they endorse someone's latest and greatest with their purchase of the footage. When you approve of someone's radness, you're kinda telling them what to do same as when you disapprove.
I don't know nothin' about Alex, but it doesn't hurt his bottom line as a pro climber to have a Taco thread critical or otherwise of his deeds and plans.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 21, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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hard unroped solo climbing is by its very nature a personal affirmation of confidence and ability in yourself. What other people say, media, photographers, etc., have no bearing.
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