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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 29, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
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"Yeah, ratings in these parts are wonky for sure. I do enjoy the lack of crowds, but certainly miss having a solid crew to help with the psyche."
Where else do you boulder at? Our usual spots were Bliss, Old County, Pie Shop and Echo View Estates. Donner was a bit of a haul from the West Shore, and usually if we were going there it was to put on a rope. I moved away before many of the newer areas got opened. I hear there's some good stuff now.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 30, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
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Where is fort sage? I'm Knott a big boulderer anymore but am curious. My ankles and Tendons have been used thoroughly.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Obscure spire........where is it???????
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Is it "temperature dependent"?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Closer to Reno......not TD*
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Sep 14, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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What ever happened to Steve Miller?
"Don't tell me! We did that route years ago".
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Sep 16, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
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We used to go go out soloing and bouldering at the Pie Shop all the time and party boldly!
Last time I saw Miller, he was headed up to Wenatchee, Washington. Never heard from him again.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 22, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Whenever the term "golden age" is used about a place, I think that the area is being prepared for the dustbin of history.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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^^^^^
Yeah, no shit!
I wish Jay Smith visited these forums from time to time.
Would love to pick that guys brain.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 22, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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Hey Ron - great thread, maybe should be the glory days of Tahoe - at least in our own minds.
Here are some photos I thought I would throw out there. I'll start digging for more.
Snowshed was our bouldering area and as noted below we considered the first ascents as the first top rope ascent. Some of my biggest falls were top roping when Hudon was belaying! And he lowered me so fast to the ground I often thought the top anchors had pulled (yes we even rigged them ourselves).
Max
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Nov 22, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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Hey Welcome Max!
Great photos!
Its been too long since we have crossed paths, I have to come over to Spooner and ski your great trails.
I live at Serene Lakes and am climbing at Donner all the time, though a bit less this year due to a knee injury.
Look me up if you ever come up to the summit.
Peter
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 22, 2010 - 03:06am PT
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No sh#t, Max Jones chimes in.
Bet you never thought even to this day you'd have fans in the Tahoe area who admire what you and Mark did back in the day.
Hell, my first day on this earth hadn't even began before you guys freed Hookers. More stories and pics please. Woot!!!
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 23, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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Found a photo of Hud leading Lightning bolt roof. Look close Tube Chalks! Probably the only one ever to actually use the things. Mainly they just made a loud enough noise so you knew the fell out of the crack.
And guidebook additions for Snowshed.
Blowups happen was me. I seem to remember that it was a bit dicy. Little knobs ready to pop. Part of the never ending search to find something new to do.
I'll keep watching for the Reno sessions and try to make it. Or we have good beer here in Carson too!
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Nov 23, 2010 - 08:35am PT
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Hey Max, good to see you posting here - and thanks for the early Donner memories. Planning to come down and ride your fine MTB trails again in July.
Hope all is well!
Eric Barrett
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 23, 2010 - 09:37pm PT
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Jones! Yikes! What's the world coming to!
Max on Freeblast in 1977, maybe 78.
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 23, 2010 - 09:48pm PT
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I got to close a big circle this year. The circle started when my young friends and I were camping in the woods below Lovers Leap in 1969. Two climbers stopped by the fire. Among other chit chat it came out that they had just done Haystack, a 5.8 route. The younger climber had led it and.... this....this fifty year old guy with white hair had followed it! I was impressed. My only climbing contacts were 20 somethings and I had never heard of an old person still being able to climb. Amazing. It stuck in my mind.
We came back later that season and did The Line as our first 5.9 climb. I got a favorite shot of one of my friends back then.
http://www.summitpost.org/the-line-1969/193739/c-161272 It was an age of mostly pitons, a few nuts, swami belts, and there was no guide book yet. As the decades and jobs and children came along I learned that there were plenty of old people climbing. There always were, I just did not know it back then as a newbie. That was forty one years ago. A lot has changed.
OK, my turn. I always had a day dream that I could go back when I got to be fifty and do the same thing. But for various weak reasons I never followed through.
This year I had the great misfortune to start climbing with a younger man who was strong, ambitious, and worst of all, tireless. He choose 5.8 routes with a few 5.9s thrown in and we climbed mostly at Joshua Tree and the Valley. He was doing the hard leads and I was following most of the time. He would wear me out with long climbing days, but hey, it was the right recipe for me, and this year was my chance to snap my suspenders in self imagined pride. I was 66 and at last it was my turn to be that old guy. When we planned a trip to the Leap I made sure we choose Haystack as our first climb. He led again and I was able to pull the roof smoothly because I had done it so many times in my youth. So satisfying, and THE DEED WAS DONE. This circle in my climbing career was closed. We did The Line the next day and that was a hoot too but it did not have the same charm for me. I have done lots of climbs but doing Haystack again is going to be one of my favorite memories. Nostalgia is sweet. Snap, snap.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 23, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
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Max on Hookers.
We nailed the route to pre-place the gear, the crux was done off a tied off stack of a Lost Arrow and knifeblade. The thing wouldn't take nuts and you couldn't just go up and drill bolts on an established route back then. We didn't really care about the aid-to-place-free climbing- pro thing, we were just f*#king around.
Max, we went down there, worked the route and led and followed it free that same day.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 24, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Yeah, we laugh now that our past sandbags are coming back to haunt us!
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crawdaddy
Trad climber
California
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Nov 28, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
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To bad about Tapestry...great climb.
Paul Crawford
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 28, 2010 - 01:41am PT
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Nice one Ron,
Pauls still ripped and cranking 5.13, always ground up and always placing his own gear. None of that sissy pre placed nonsense.
Say hello to his latest dog, the always playful Cedar.
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