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D H
Trad climber
Exeter CA.
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
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Micro...
I would definitely like to get one of the T-shirts when they’re available.
DH
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Brandon
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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I've made two trips to the Upper Castles and haven't seen much development. I've seen some old artifacts from the climbers that got to the spire summits via 4th & 5th class routes. The only semi modern routes, prior to me visiting, are the Beckey route and the Laegar route(Gargoyle). The faces are steep and tall, without a lot of continuous crack systems. I've noticed the rock quality varies from perfect to choss.
I heard that Ron Carson had spent some time up there and did not document his routes. I just know of his routes on the Fin. Has anyone heard of him establishing routes at the Upper Castles?
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 17, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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Brandon,
Only the stuff on the Fin. Had you repeated that face route of Ron's to the left of Silver Lining?
I made one trip to the back after CRS and failed on an FA on one big ass dome. Otherwise, the 2nd ascent of SL and the Poison Oak trip from Hell with you to do what eventually became Spiked Hairdoo...
 ec
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Feb 17, 2010 - 10:34am PT
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I had talked to Ron about the back towers at the Castles in the 80's and he mentioned the "Rapunzel Wall" but didn't say much about the then new route. He said there was a bolt stash back there too but didn't say where or what formation...........Ron's route on the far left of the Fin "Nervana" (spelled wrong in the guide) hasn't had a second ascent yet..it looked hard!!..........Nice to read the stuff from the iron men of the old days DH. We've had several trip adventures back there eh!!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Feb 17, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
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Alright,
Here's the final artwork. Thanks for all the input, but the voting booth is now closed. Spread the word and let Ihateplastic know how many you want and what size. Hope yall enjoy 'em and wear 'em with pride. I won't wear mine till I stand on top.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 17, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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There's a bug. You need to put a line break after your photo id for it to post...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 17, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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Micronut... First, as you probably know we are having photo troubles on ST so try that again.
Second, as soon as I have the art I will set up a SKU on my site and the orders can flow in. Hopefully this weekend...
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Feb 17, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
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How's this, I brought it in from Photobucket.
Simon, I just sent you the original via e-mail.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 17, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Anybody got photos of the upper castles Brandon is talking about? Or South Guard. They are pretty cool looking from the few spots you can see them.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 17, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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Shirts will be available for ordering within 48 hours!
Nice job Micronut
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 17, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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Muy bueno! You got it right Micro!
I'll take two!
Rene -
You still have that photo we took when we attempted to thrash, crawl, claw (and that was in manzanita alone!) our way toward the base of South Guard from below via Paradise Creek drainage??
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 17, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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I'm only getting mine after I summit.
thx tho guys!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Feb 17, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
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Yea, I don't feel worthy either,
but very nice job micro!
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Brandon
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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Feb 17, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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EC, that attempt we tried eventually became Cinco de Mayo. Bruce and Coomer had already established Spike Hairdoo, during the winter. I remember Bruce saying car-sized blocks of ice would roll down the gully between the Fin and the Spire.
I took a look at Nervana once, but noticed a huge 30-50 runout on the 2nd? pitch. I couldn't imagine getting hurt that far in, so I passed. Looks like a good, but serious route.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Feb 17, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Reading all this has made me wiggle in my office chair, getting the fever to go out there. I went with a friend today to help him on his new route lower in the same area of the park. There's still lots of snow up higher. Places like the gully may see snow all the way into June or July this year. Though up in the bay and oak trees today it was alittle chilly..........
Mooch....I think I know the picture your talking about of the back towers...I'm looking............
Edit
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 18, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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talk 'bout goin' green...
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jax
Sport climber
sonoma county, ca
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Feb 18, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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That last photo in particular is just beautiful. I need to get out to spires again soon.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Feb 19, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
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Keeping this thread alive...............
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 19, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Hours away from T-shirt ordering!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 19, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
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Micro and IHP,
Maybe someone else mentioned it already.....
Any reason why East is on the Left and West is on the right??
Maybe it was intentional?
Pretty fun either way....hints at even more adventure!
Kinda like it's the Bermuda Triangle out there???
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