Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
|
so i'm gonna be in san diego over thanksgiving and won't have a car. will be staying in clairemont. who wants to drive me bouldering??
still fishin' for a ride bump.
|
|
Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
|
bvb - you know I would, too injured,
gonna get my head stiched onto a new
body - they can do that now, I seen it in
the movies...
|
|
jeff leads
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
|
Call me BVB....
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
|
The Evil Upper Case Twin?!?
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 02:55am PT
|
Sorry for reviving the thread, but I'm planning on heading up to the northern T Domes next week (above the tractor one day, and probably the middle area the week after). Since I've lived here ('86) I've always stared up at those hills and since i started climbing a few years ago I've been wanting to hike up there. Since then I've made it up to the boulders above the weigh station quite a few times, and hiked 3/4 of the way up the steep side of the east (of the freeway) hill below the 3 giant eggs sitting on top. most of my friends are boulderers (as am i, but im an alpinist at heart) so the approach is a bit too extreme for their tastes and so finding people to team up with is hard.
Is anyone still going up there or would like to come up? I'd love to meet up with anyone willing to make the hike up there, and anyone whos familiar with the way would be even better.
Im also trying to set a day aside to getting up to the dome on the other side of the hill, overlooking the santa margarita river (temecula gorge). I've gotten most of the way hiking up the private road after old town and cutting west above the gorge rim, but i didnt have enough light to go further. Same thing with approaching from the weigh station (the long way) and cutting across along a trail to the top of the dome.
heres a link to a TR that some guys did to it. anyone know who bolted the stuff and what the real ratings are? http://poorboy44.smugmug.com/Climbing/2006/Temecula-Domes-Hell-Hike-Recon/2021552_pTDZw#103583186_r44X9
Back to the east hill again, has anyone done the approach from behind the conservation camp? I've heard from a friend that someone got up there with no problems, and other times ive heard that people were ran off the alarea. I really wanna get up to those eggs but there looks like some amazing spots along the backside as well.
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
|
yeah i can imagine its been washed away, however the brush above there is no problem as it was burned out a year or so ago and still hasnt recovered. I've seen that trail coming from where the KRTM antenna is, and ive yet to go all the way up to the house to ask for permission as their property line (and front gate) is far from their house so id have to trespass to even get up there to ask. I guess i could leave a note? haha.
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
|
hey warbler, in post #100 you put up some pics of a canyon with a guy standing and an overhung boulder stating it was new rock. where is that at?
oh also, how long ago has it been since you guys rebolted? Just want to know if i should be bringing any tools with me or not.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:29pm PT
|
Hey Warbler check these out. Kurt Smith on the what I believe is the first ascent of "The best of both worlds" 5.10c around 1986.
Check out the background of Temecula. Betcha it looks a lot different now.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
|
"High Voltage"
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:54pm PT
|
^^ Sh*t... thats when i moved to the area with my parents. i was 5. haha
really looking forward to getting up on those rocks.
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
|
I am sure you were there Kevin. Prolly Spike, Dave, you. That was back when we would park om the freeway and run across. Those were good times!
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 01:33am PT
|
i have a slide scanner id love to check out all the old pics.
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 02:26am PT
|
Its hard to look for routes while carrying heavy equipment. Exploration is finding the routes, and suitable tools are light, compact and versatile.
One is hiking and fighting brush while you try to cover ground to your destination. The emphasis is on getting thru it quickly, not blazing a trail. The less you hack the faster you go. Why build a trail before you know if there are even routes there? Depending on the type of brush, ive carried modified machetes, a cleaver, a folding brush saw, a rebar rod, a long handled hatchet and some handmade tools like a solid copper bludgeon for dry shattery vegitation on rock ground. The copper blasts thru even thick crispies like manzanita and sumac, and it doesnt hurt to hit a rock on the downswing like steel does because the copper deforms and absorbs the shock. Brush saws can get you thru the deep canopy/tree type barriers found in the deep riparian low spots like the NE side of woodson, where you may have to cut a 4" or larger branch at times. Machetes arent good on the dry, lacking the heft to shatter, and are best suited to sumac and upper north slope type terrain. Tough rooted low plants like sage and scrub oak resist casual whacking, but if you need to cut through some, a hatchet with lengthened handle for striking at the low stalk and root area is effective. But none of that except maybe the brush saw are that good for development, which is heavier and more specific work involving minimal hiking.
I used to haul all kinds of shovels, rakes, car jacks, prybars, saws, you name it, to a new area and leave it all there for months while developing an area. Id bury it or cache it in cracks or thickets. Not having to lug any of it around means chainsaws etc may be viable, but construction type noise on or near private or public land will get you shut down, and while i have daydreamed of a gasoline brush saw, polesaw, brush shears etc instead of the hand tools I was laboring with, i never needed it and liked the wild eyed release of hacking and digging till i was exhausted and too pumped to open a beer. Those days usually ended with me covered with sweat mud in the dark, in the middle of nowhere, scraped up, pumped, exhausted and happy as a clam. I always had a spare set of clothes and socks, a towel, some water and beers and a carpet, and would have a beer and clean up a little in the dark, enjoying the sounds of the wildlife in the brush around me and feeling like one of them. I tried not to make noise or use my light because it froze all activity, creating a silence that lingered for 5 or 10 minutes, then stirrings quickly ramped back up into full activity around me. It was sometimes 9:00 or even later before i left because i found such solace way out in the brush, in the hush of night with my fellow brush denizens.
I guess i digressed into a rapture, but my point was that exploration is not development, and power tools are not some modern answer. Bushwhacking with your chain saw and extension loppers is about as smart as trying to fell a tree with a machete. apples and oranges.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 11:14am PT
|
Somebody get Kevin hooked up!
For the ST I use an HP Scanjet 5370C with the slide scanning gizmo. More than good enough for posting. If you are into higher resolution for archiving something like a Canon CanoScan 8800F would be better. I am no tech weenie and this stuff is fairly easy to deal with. Besides the clock is ticking on the image quality for those really old slides so git her done songbird! I bet you have some gems once the dust is removed with a slide duster/blower!
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
|
well let me clarify i dont have a dedicated slide scanner, i have a flatbed that has the capability of scanning slides. so it will definately work. Dunno the difference between the dedicated film/slide scanner results and what i use but ive been satisfied with the results.
So no one has any knowledge about the face on the other side of the hill overlooking the gorge? someones gotta know something. haha
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
|
you're a good man kw.
|
|
InEpt
Boulder climber
SoulCal
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 09:29pm PT
|
Hey Graham the face overlooking the gorge has some potential for good lines on it and some phenomenal bouldering at the base. However the approach is to either solo up that 75ft wall of crumbling death above the water and army crawl on your stomach under manzanita for an hour or from the left use the trail we tried to make years ago only to be stopped 3/4 of the way by a gully of absolutely impenetrable poison oak. The routes on the dome weren't enticing enough to want to suffer more steroid injections for the poison oak but the rock was bullet and the bouldering was pretty stellar! There is a road that we stumbled on halfway up the mountain that was used for the transport of granite they used to quarry up there. But that too stops in the foreboding poison oak gully =(
|
|
Graham N
Social climber
temecula
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
|
^^ hmmm i wonder who bolted it then? A page or so back i posted a link to a trip report from some guys that went up to the base of it, said it took them hours to get there. The rock looks amazing, if a bit slick. Is the bouldering you are referring to the stuff to the left of the dome? That area has teased me for years. I think i know where you guys made the trail. I might just get my full suit up and hack through the poison oak to make the trail go through.
Side note again, I have access to the hill on the other side of the freeway, from a home off rainbow canyon road. They used to own the hillside all the way to the top where the 3 eggs are, and blasted and dozed an access road most of the way up back in the late 70's. It deteriorated about half way up but its completely doable, just needs some hacking. It goes up to the left of Vapor Lock. I'm looking for a couple motivated people whod like a shorter (if steeper) access to the top and backside of that hill without going around the conservation camp. Any takers?? haha
I'm also trying to plan a little expedition across the north side of the rocky hillside above tenaja (the national forest side, not the part with all the mcmansions). Theres SOOO much rock up there, for bouldering and for trad/sport
InEpt, you post on westcoastbouldering.com dont you? I need some motivated exploration partners. all my bouldering/climbing friends are too lazy for complicated approaches/trailbuilding
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 12:07am PT
|
Here is some fun stuff I found. I guess that is not the first ascent of Kurt on "Best of both worlds" Kevin, says here in the guide book you and spike put it up and I am sand bager by calling 10c. Guide book calls 11a
HeHe The players Kevin Worrall, Mike Hatchett, Kurt Smith, Tommy Thompson, Rick Lovelace
|
|
gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2010 - 05:00am PT
|
KW, you da man. My post was my 2 cents worth of spray only because the thread subject is dear to me, not because ive really accomplished anything. Im not only not in your league, im not on your planet. Hope i didnt come off uppity, i tend to babble.
peace, r
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!