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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 16, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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Thanks Wade Icey!
This thread is a group effort and I am just proud to get to contribute on the surfing side of it. I don't get to do much rock climbing these days.
I have only done three routes in the last year.
I do live in a place that I can walk to great waves so surfing is all I have to contribute these days.
After I posted that Jaws video this morning, I went and checked out the waves my back yard.
The waves had dropped down to head to head/head and a half with occasional sets approaching close to double over head.
There was absolutely no wind so it perfectly glassy.
The water was the clearest that I can remember. Not only could you vividly see the reef but whole schools of fish as well. It was almost spooky it was so clear.
I shared these conditions with three guys on SUP's. They were veteran surfers and the vibe was as good as it gets.
I got some great right's and left's with only getting worked by one set.
I had to go in after two and a half hours of paddling due to my right arm issue.
I'm icing it now and I am sure that I will feel it tomorrow but it was soo worth it!
BTW:I heard from Kai and it sounds like that cut he got at Jaws might not be as bad as we feared.
Game On!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 16, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
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What is this, the surfing thread???
O man
I really appreciate your island contributions.
Can't wait to get back and you better believe if I make it to Maui I'll be looking you up.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 16, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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drljefe, Make that happen dude!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 16, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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Some people do both, most don't....the skill set is different, the setting more so. The psychological motivations are maybe closer. Complimentary is probably not the right term but they are not mutually exclusive.
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bixquite
Social climber
humboldt nation
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Dec 16, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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After paddling all winter I feel like climbing opens up my muscles and stretches out my
Back and hips. In that way when I do both they compliment each other. And with shreded
Tips and mental fatigue paddling out and staring at the horizon for a lump of pure joy sure
Is peaceful.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 17, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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“If there weren’t rocks to climb, we would all be surfers.” I think Evon Chounard said that but perhaps someone else said it first.
I feel that statement about sums it up but I will try to go just a bit further
Both climbing and surfing have social elements such as lingo and dress apparel.
They each capture a wide audience stimulating glamorous feelings of intense adventure taking on nature on its own terms.
They each have many facets and levels. There’s the pure (relatively safe) recreational side of each sport which can be practiced without hazard by an average person seeking a unique activity in nature. All the way to the to extreme, beyond extreme level.
To move beyond the recreational level, commitment to the sport is mandatory.
To excel requires physical and mental preparedness along with natural talent and a passion that usually directs one’s life.
Relationships suffer and often careers are compromised in order to advance to the next level.
In both climbing and surfing, achievement requires travel and more often than not actually pulling up roots and moving to a place where conditions are favorable and where there are other enthusiasts to share mutual passions and goals.
In both sports there is a contingent of talented athletes with huge and fragile egos that need to be constantly nurtured by their peers and through media recognition of their latest achievements.
On the other hand both climbing and surfing each have a quiet contingent that’s equally talented. They go their way with humility and avoiding conflict and crowds. ‘Soul Surfer’ comes to mind.
In reality climbing and surfing are completely unique unto themselves and total opposites.
Perhaps it's through their diversity, that they indeed, complement each other.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 17, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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Really well said Olaf.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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http://vimeo.com/82140436
Sorry about the repeat image but it is a good one and it was taken by my friend.
We are supposed to have another giant swell event here on Maui. The wave models indicate the this one has enough west in it to wrap all the way to Kehei side. It might be a good day for a road trip. But if it's good here why leave waves to look for waves. Game On!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 21, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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Happy Solstice!
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 21, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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It's all about acquiring a good vantage to see the world.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 24, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
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Happy holidays all you climber/surfers!
I'll be haunting my old lineups in just a few days as the ghost of Christmas past.
Hoping for some swell- surfing bigger waves is so much easier, and it's been a while for me.
If it's small, blown, crowded, whatever, I don't care...
Liquid therapy.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Richard Hallman
December 14 · Edited ·
Stand-up Paddleboarding Jaws, Hawaii
Photograph by Richard Hallman
Getting the Shot
“Things at Jaws happen so fast, I wasn't sure it was even Kai taking off on the wave until my Skidoo driver Nano pointed and said, ‘Kai Lenny,’ ” recalls surf photographer Richard Hallman. “I focused my attention on the wave because I knew he was riding stand-up and even though the wave was small for Jaws, it was big for stand-up. He had a spectacular air drop.”
Lenny dropped into the wave, and Hallman continued to photograph the 20-foot ride until Lenny fell. “I knew right away with the few last frames in my camera that it was a particularly bad fall. My biggest concern at this point was his safety.”
Rescue Jet Skis rushed to help when Lenny resurfaced, and Hallman noticed Lenny’s foot was bleeding. “I immediately took a photo with my 70-200mm zoom camera—the zoom allowed me to see the severity of the cut. My experience as a former trauma nurse told me that this was a particularly bad cut,” he says.
“Nothing about big waves is routine. I think that is the why big-waving surfing is such a draw for me," Hallman continues. "It is daunting and challenging as a surfer and as a photographer. It truly is otherworldly to be pressed against the edge of so much energy and to watch these modern-day gladiators drop down these mountains of water.”
Special Thanx to Nano and DK Walsh (Skullbase) for helping with water support and special Thanx to Kai Lenny (Heal up fast Bro
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 24, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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O Man, when I said surfing bigger waves was easier I sure didn't mean THAT much bigger!
Gnarly.
Mele Kalikimaka!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 24, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Dec 25, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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Zuma
up and close with this wave!
happy holiday's!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 25, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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We wave sailed in my back yard till almost dark yesterday.
I must admit that I was a bit timid in that the larger sets were in the 25' range and they had up to five waves in the sets. I was always looking over my shoulder and kicking out early most of the time. Due to the nearly 20 second interval there was plenty of time between sets but ya just didn't want to screw up by taking one of the early bombs and get clobbered by the following monsters. There was some blood and broken gear but everyone made it back in. We then gathered at some friends house and had burgers and wine and talked story for a while. It was a great Christmas Eve 2013. It's supposed to be bigger today. Game On!
Merry Christmas everyone!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 28, 2013 - 04:31am PT
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God Jul!
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