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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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^^^Did that dude survive?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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criminy, they're good in ^^^ Oman's last. Even so, with those crowds and waves, there had to have been some serious injuries?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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I have known Dave Kalama for well over a decade and he has done a lot, a real lot. He has been a professional surfer for most of his life. Short board,long board,tow in,and S.U.P.
When Dave talks, I listen.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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If you know Dave Kalama, then you must know Haas and Digger, brothers. Haas used to hit the dawn patrol with Kalama regularly, they'd be out there tearing up Hookipa dawn patrol every morning if there was a whisper of wind.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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I had a great session three days back at Mommas with my neighbor Debbie Brown.
It was an extremely low tide with shoulder to head high waves in the sets. The take offs were pretty steep and I was on a longboard so I didn't make several of the drops.
Like we discussed upthread it's very shallow at Mommas on a low tide so I hit bottom a few times with out much damage other than a scratch on my toe.
There wasn't a breath of wind until right at the end.
It wasn't epic by any means just fun surfing with a friend.
Some how I strained my right arm in that session and it got real stiff and painful.
We had a sweet new swell arrive here on the north shore yesterday but I had to take it off and rest my arm but today it feels better and the swell is still here.I think I'll give it a go as soon as I post this.
I took a few photos when I went by Hookipa yesterday. All I had was the little Olympus and it doesn't reach out very far so quality isn't very good but I thought I would share a few of them anyway.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 10, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
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After my last post we've had a delightful and rather large wave event here on the north shore of Maui.
I've been plagued with a very sore right arm so I have had to rest a day and surf a day. I am hoping this gets better soon but I'm not counting on it.
I have had to sit out some excellent sessions but scored some as well.
Yesterday was all time wave sailing here at Kuau but my arm was sore from my session at Kanaha the day before.
I didn't want to risk further injury especially in light air and mast high conditions.
It was really good at Kanaha the day before yesterday but I had to sit that one out also.
An interesting thing happened at Kanaha that day that I didn't paddle out.
An S.U.P. surfer fell off his board in the busy line up and literally
landed on a 13' tiger shark.
I was told by someone that was there that the spooked shark made quite a commotion before swimming away.
No one was bitten but the line up cleared out real fast.
I did paddle out at Kanaha the next day and most of the usual suspects were back out in the line up.
So, although it's on everyone's mind, (and no one in their right mind is taking it lightly) but we're not going to let this keep us from getting a session.
(I don't know how much mainland media attention this is getting, but, here on Maui we have had shark encounters every week for quite some time now and just last week a dude from Stevenson,WA. was kayak fishing. He was dangling his feet in the water and a shark bit his leg bit and he bled to death.)
Well it's sunny the water is clear and warm, the trades are up and there is still some good swell.
So it's game on again today and my arm feels rested.
I'm hoping to go wave sailing in my back yard later.
I shot this photo at "Lanes" the other day.
To view more photos of Lanes that I shot that day click here.
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bob
climber
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Dec 10, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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The shark thing in Hawaii is scarey. My girlfriend is close to a family on The Big Island and one of their sons was munched recently at his home break. He's a big kid and beat the shark off and was aided by another surfer who swam back out to help.
Olaf, do you know or know of Ulu Boy Napeahi? Glad he made it!
Bob J.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 11, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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O-man; thanks for posting your own photos. Likewise all of you that post your own photos (pyro, drljefe). Esparza, was that beautiful photo from the Mentawais your own? Awesome.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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The great and legendary surfer from the Sixties and early Seventies, Wayne Lynch, has an online video about rescuing a friend in Australia while a very large GW shark was spy-hopping and circling around the two men as they slowly returned to shore on one board. Really worth digging up online. Probably the worse tale I have heard/read/seen regarding a GW shark incident where no one actually was attacked!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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Tiger shark visitation while out surfing Pakaukaulo's. Be safe O-man!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 13, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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Rumor on the beach is we have a GIANT swell heading our way and should hit our beaches on Saturday.
If this forecast is correct 'The Eddie' big wave contest at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu will probably go off this year.
I am proud of my neighbor Kai Lenny for being chosen as an alternate in this prestigious event
I wrote this in a journal while back and thought I would share it.
The ocean has been in a unique mood.
Friday morning I addressed work things for a while and then I did my morning surf check and found glassy well over head waves in my back yard. When I paddled out at about 8:00 am there were a few standup guys already out but it wasn’t crowded. There was one dude that stood in the same line as me and just paddled for every wave. He was tall and very fit looking but he just kept missing waves that I could have caught.
I finally had to tell him that if he was going to paddle for waves he should make a point of getting them.
He was so close to my line that if I got a wave that he had already initiated and we both got it, I felt that we would be too close for safety.
I was still getting some great waves and the swell getting bigger and bigger.
After about an hour I was joined by my buddy Mark.
After two hours the waves were in the solid double overhead range and all the stand up guys had gone in except my buddy Mickey Eskimo.
With just the three of us out we cloud be selective and avoid the real bombs.
We had our pick of the sweet head and a half nuggets.
After three hours we had scored a bunch of waves and the sets were starting to get erratic and the frequency and size were impossible to calculate.
On one set, Mark took off on the first wave and I took the second. His held up all the way to the right channel while mine closed out after I made the drop and got one turn resulting in me being in a very bad place.
This set was one of the biggest of the session.
Mark got to see me take the next eight waves square on the head. All I could do is just take a breath and dive for the bottom and hope that my board made it.
We both agreed that we should paddle in soon but things settled down some and we kept getting waves and the wind was only just starting to pick up.
Most of the waves were silky smooth after the first wave of the set came through.
We paddled in after four solid hours and we were STOKED!
I walked back home and took an hour break and had lunch.
I was contemplating a second session but when I walked back over to the beach the waves had gotten a lot bigger and the sets were even more erratic. I’m talking ten foot Hawaiian that’s twenty foot plus faces and that just too big for me to paddle into.
The next day I checked the surf at my local break and it was just too big.
No one was out and except one team that was towing in at Noriega’s, my local break.
I loaded my board in the back of my truck and drove to Kanaha Beach Park where the scene was much mellower.
So I thought.
Kanaha breaks about a quarter mile off shore so it can be hard to judge the size from the beach even with binoculars.
I did notice that the left channel was occasionally closing out and that told me to use caution.
When I arrived at the line up every one had a sober look about them. I went about the business of surfing.
I wasn’t having much luck.
Then I saw this set out on the horizon and I started paddling out as fast and far as I could but it just wasn’t far enough. I made it over the first wave but the second was bigger I was paddling up a gigantic dead vertical wall water and as I got to the lip it broke!
I went over the falls and the force drove me straight to the reef. When I made it back to the surface by board was snapped but was still held together by the glass in top.
I took two more waves on the head and the pounding subsided. With razor sharp fiber glass still holding the two pieces together I made the long paddle back in.
I drove back home and got another board and drove back to Kanaha and paddled back out.
By the time I got back to the line up there were only three other surfers out and they were being very cautious.
I caught some really sweet left hander’s that were in the double over head size and realistically that was the limit of my comfort zone. The only problem was that in order to get those I had to sit a bit deeper than I wanted.
Three of those a major sets rolled through and pounded the living s..t out of me.
I didn’t feel like snapping another board that day so I paddled in and called it a day.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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Pipe has come up from around 3 ft to something more than ten in just the last hour and a half. Well worth watching right now as darkness slowly grows out there.
It's 6:45 pm PT. Friday evening.
The Billabong Pipe Masters will resume tomorrow there and it will be quite a bit different than it was for Rd 5 a few days ago….
http://www.vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2013
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 15, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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A quote from my friend Giampollo Cammarota
"Kelly Slater alluding to the clearly overscored wave of Mick Fanning: "that pissed me off just enough to keep me going next year"...
Well, thank god for that! 'Cause god knows how much more fun is to watch you surfing than anybody else in the world!!!!
If Fanning didn't get that nice Christmas present from the very shaky judges, I would be probably commentating about Kelly's retirement...
Uff, I feel like we all scored big time yesterday at Pipe!"
I must admit that I didn't watch this contest live.
I checked the the ocean out yesterday morning and it was big, but not real big.
It was big enough that (to me) it was clear that I wasn't going surfing so I chilled at home and had breakfast and did chores.
I drove out to Jaws later in the morning.
The paddle in action started early.
I missed most of it because the wind was already on it and those guys had mostly all gone in.
I did catch some tow and kite guys.
After Jaws I stopped off at Hookipa.
There were only four guys out at Middles and they were killing it!
After Hookipa, I moved down to Lanes and caught some of that action also.
Today was still to big in my back yard.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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you were busy Oman, as well you should be. You can always watch the contest online later after you've had your waves.
I was scandalized too by Mick's crucial wave score. It just wasn't there. Fanning is a great surfer though and a very good man from what I can tell so far removed. Friend to thousands, for sure. But he is not the astounding genius of all time that KS and JJF are, not by a long shot. Those contests and the judging of them better keep their noses clean or I should say cleaner, as we go forward. I have seen 'gimme points' for quite some time now. We see them in Dressage too, ice skating etc. It gets ridiculous and so transparent. Thank God Kelly is willing to point his finger (The Emperor Has No Clothes, would be the tale to cite here, except KS is not a child but a aging master like no other). It does nothing but help the sport and art to confront this kind of discouraging corruption, especially as surfing enters its new phase next year of approaching the general public.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:23am PT
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Kelly gets overscored all the time.
I think because of all the hype and buildup for the title race ending at Pipe, there was extra scrutiny.
Mick's waves were sick. Was he overscored, maybe.
I was rooting for Kelly for sure but the way Mick's waves came in the dying moments of his heats, the fact that they were macking and absolutely perfect, and he rode them perfectly- he deserved those heat wins.
If the title weren't at stake and slates in the running, no one would be questioning those calls but CJ and Yadin and their mates.
The final was weird- no waves for 20 minutes. Kelly's airdrop was f*#king mental and was a contest winner, but then JJF's Backdoor tube in the final minute...talk about underscored!
Oh well. What was cool was that everyone won. Mick gets the title, JJF gets the Triple Crown, and Slates gets his 7th Pipe Masters! He got all misty and even cried a little afterward saying it was one of the best days of his life and a dream come true to surf with John John in the finals at Pipe.
Awesome.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 16, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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Do yourself a favor and put this one on full screen and turn the volume UP!
The scene with the helicopter is Kai Lenny getting air lifted out with a bad gash in his foot.
My buddy Jake Miller shot the stuff from the cliff.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 16, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?
Yea.
Thanks O-man, you're killing me with this thread.
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