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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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"Ooooo, Mooser...I was there. I can still hear his bones crushing! BA"
I think Tim still hears them, too!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Hey Bruno-
Try looking up Doug in Zephyr Cove, NV--RP was doing some work for DE. Tearing up all the areas around tahoe a few years back
Buzzard is up by Dayton (famous for the Scopes trial). Pretty bullet for sandstone but of course no where near the "density" of Poway graniticas. Lots of buzzards up there. Where'd your folks live?
I've been to Sweet Eggs of woodson a few times eons ago, way before "my bros could call with a cell phone". Had high aspirations, did a few standards (Robbins) one of Longo's cracks but mostly got shut down-pawed at MS, Gregs and a number of other fissures. Pretty lucky not to get choppered out, actually. Werd, bvb, I still use "woodson landing" as a benchmark...
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Thanks 426 for the Piggott leads! My parents grew up in Henry County, West (flat) Tennessee, near Nashville. Dad joined the Navy after high school and found himself at Pearl Harbor just in time for the invasion. After twenty years in the Navy he bought a house in Poway, at that time just nothing but small valleys surrounded by boulders. I can recall my first day in Poway at age five--my brothers and I climbed some boulders in our neighbor's back yard.
Grug (eee-onk-eee), also in Poway, actually had boulders in his back yard. In the mid sixties we had several favorite bouldering spots in Poway, some of which are now in the yards of private residences. For any high school kids out there who want to ditch class and boulder like their Poway ancestors, prime spots were: Rattlesnake Hill (by the cemetery), Big Friction and Flakey Edges (below the RB watertower, Tooth Rock (the definitive Poway Boulder, atop a hill just south of High Valley and prominent when driving to Romona), Molar Rock, (South of the High Schol on the east side of Espola rd. School) and the RB Safeway boulders (intersection of Pomerado Rd and Espola). I'm not sure which ones are still accessible. But these places are more interesting than the gym!
I would love to climb in Tennessee someday 426. I'll make a note of Buzzards.
BA
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Oh man, BA, you just listed all my old favorite in-town haunts! I remember the cops giving me a really hard time at the Safeway boulders because of the funny white powder I was carrying. The local residents eventually had it all fenced in, but there were some great little problems in that pile. My brother John and I did Tooth Rock with pins and corduroy knickers, and thought we would make Rebuffat proud. My folks followed our "summit bid" through binoculars in the backyard. We got chased out of the boulders up by the water tower more than once, and now I think there are some McMansions up there. And (though I never knew it/them by this name) "Molar Rock" had some really good stuff on it--especially the face on the southern one facing Espola. I sure wish I had something like that around Seattle.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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GL BA, we got a few crags with better access and more routes (ie T-Wall). A few boulders, too, but nothing quite like the splitters down 'Poway'. Must've been fantastic cuttin' class for some graniticas---!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2007 - 09:35am PT
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Big Friction, Flakey Edges, Tooth Rock, Molar Rock, ...and Mt Woodson. You couldn't ask for a better place to grow up. The boulders in my back yard included several 5.11 mantels.
And let me tell you all, Bruce was probably the best climber of the Poway Mountain Boys (after Piggot).
(Bruce, check your ST email account)
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mdavid
Big Wall climber
CA, CO, TX
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Great problems on the north facing hillside behind pomerado hospital. Also east side of espola after going down hill southbound there are some great boulders with cool friction problems, believe we had to get permission though as they're in a yard...but just off the road.
Seems the rocks around poway were inspiration for quite a few of us.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Greg, Bruce et al.,
Man you guys are stirring up memories:
'70/'71 3rd grade: The movie "SOLO" changed my life from team sports to outdoor adventure. Involved in Y-Indian Guides, Cub Scouts, and Wheeblos (sp?) while living in Pt. Loma.
'71/'72 4th grade: My family moved to Garden Road in Poway. Boulders galore on the South facing hillsides and up the canyon. I thought I was living in the wilderness. Poway changed my life. Started climbing those Boulders and even rappelling with a hemp rope using the through the legs and over the shoulder method (Dusseldorf tech.?). Burned my neck bad. The hillsides still are open and climbable although definately more homes in the area and now up the canyon.
'72/'73 5th grade: Moved to Midland Road area and joined Scout Troop 608. Many of the older scouts in the troop were into climbing. Troop 608 was very active; we went everywhere backpacking, hiking, and even bouldering. The summer of '73 I took the class "Geography of California" from my 5th grade teacher, and we backpacked up Mt. Whitney at the end of the class. Bouldered in the Alabama Hills with my dad. Near our house was "Butt Crack Rock" on the Eastside of Midland Road on the West face of the hill. Climbed on that a bunch. But the real gems were the boulders all over Twin Peaks Mountain, but mostly the Southside. Bouldered all over Twin Peaks Mtn. for the next 7 years, and my dogs would almost always go with me. Tooth Rock: got up there and looked at it a few times, and saw the fixed pins in it. Never climbed it though. About this time was the first time my dad and I went to Mt. Woodson and made it a family outing. Our church just off of Espola Road, "Pomerado Christian Church" we helped build it and even to this day it has these fine boulders on the East side of the church. I had a whole circuit worked out on them. To the North of the parking lot is a fine hilltop of boulders and good climbing. There is a cross erected there. This is just south of the Safeway boulders in RB. Climbed on them a little, but it was definately private property even then. To the North of Espola Road as you drive from RB back to Poway, there are a large group of boulders that was near one of my climbing partner's house, Tim Umstead. Climbed on those a few times. Then the boulders at the far East end of Lake Poway, on the western end of Mt. Woodson were pretty good also.
'73/'74: 6th grade at Twin Peaks Middle School. Scouts, backpacking, taking the Sierra Club's "Basic Mountaineering" course. I still have the little red "Bible" from that great course I took with my dad and older sister. Many trips up to Mt. Woodson, but it was always with my dad and sister. So I didn't get to go as often as I would have liked. The fashion at school, Vasque backpacking boots with red laces, levis, and my big puffy green down jacket on cold days. The backpack of the time was my A-16 "Hip Hugger." I still have my A-16 backpack including my dad's. Cigarettes were cheap down at the U-totem near TPMS.
'74 - '80: Eventually stopped scouts but the backpacking, skiing at Mammoth, and climbing were my life. I could only get up to Woodson as I could convince my dad to drive, or my other climbing partners' parents, but in '77 when I got my license we were up there nearly every weekend until I left Poway in 1980 for Beaverton, OR. My family moved in the middle of my Senior year at PHS. So my picture is in the yearbook, but I did not get my Phd. However, I did get to see Mt. St. Helens blow on May 18th, 1980. In fact, my climbing buddy and I were on the South face of Beacon Rock doing a route on 5-18-80. The PHS library was great with a good view of the Western ridgeline of Mt. Woodson out the windows in the back of the library. They had a very good mountaineering and climbing section. I think I checked out all the books multiple times. You guys were probably instrumental in PHS having such a good mountaineering section in the library - yes?
Growing up in Poway was awesome.
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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bvb, give is the scoop on 10a on the outside, was that in tennis shoes or what's up with the Lie Detector-seemed pretty straightforward-perhaps 11b oh how about the "Emergency Broadcast System"?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Welcome Bruce! Hope all is well. If you are serious about coming to Colorado, it would be great to get together.
For those who don’t know him, besides being an original Poway Mountain Boy, Bruce was also a close friend and climbing partner of Tobin Sorenson. My memories include great times in Yosemite/Tuolumne in the early 70’s and Bruce’s moving eulogy for Tobin at the funeral 1980.
Rick
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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kp -- 5.10a on the outside -- woodson 5.11a
lie detector -- sheeit, once you get something so wired you huck laps on it, how the hell can you rate it?? woodson 5.11d?
emergency broadcast system -- got a new pair of anasazi velcros and 6" of too swole foam. going to woodson next weekend. SO SENT!!! i will prevail!! bringin' a chisel, by god!!!
but these days, i'm pimpin' on a different tip......new deep-water solo routes down by lake poway....
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
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I worked at Lake Poway for two years just after it opened in 1973. Rainbow trout, large mouth bass, bluegill, and catfish....no sharks (could be new management).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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great whites, imported from NorCal. stocked 'em myself. keep it sporty, guys n' gals!!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 10, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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RICK...Is that really YOU!??!
Yes, I am hoping to get to Colorado at least before next winter. but next weekend I'm planning to go to Moab for the first time. Is it far for you and Greg? Don't know about the weather.
Yes, we have somehow survived our climbing exploits, marriage, career efforts, and raising kids. Yet we climb on! Viva Stonemasters and Poway Mountain Boys (also known as Poway Klimbers or Poway Mountaineers).
Rick and Greg--which of you is leading me up "Naked Edge?"
Klimmer...Helium Kudos to you for your Poway resume, especially the Scout Troop 608. Yes Tim Stelling (Friction King) and Frank Green (The Aid King) and I can take some credit for the PHS library climbing book stock. The librarian was the mother of our buddy, Kevin Dalby. Kevin Dalby has gone into the annals of Poway History for, among many other compelling reasons, executing the most noteworthy gasser in modern times. In Mr. Decanio's sixth grade basic ed class,ing he managed to sound sustained emissions of noxious, lethal quality for a full twenty- two seconds. This time lapse explosive caused the girl sitting behind Dalby to actually pass out and Mr. Decanio was forced to excuse class for the purpose of airing out the room. Yes... I agree with you all--Poway was the most ideal place to (possibly) grow up!
But Klimmer, speaking now in the Spirit...I have to break the news to you that it is tough to recognize your otherwise glowing credentials, seeings how there is now a revelation of deep shame. .. Of course, I'm referring to your admitted neglect of Tooth Rock summit.
Do you really expect the rest of the climbing world to take you seriously?
Get with the program! You will completely redeem yourself if you... ascend the famous "Lost Piton Traverse." It begins on the east side, traverses the aid crack past the Poway Mountaineers legendary original rurp placement at the Northwest corner. (fixed -the "lost piton"). Your belayer must take photos at that same corner, cropped to render el cap-like exposure. Consider the direct finish, another rurp placement on the west "headwall." Talk about your chances with hot highschool cheerleaders on the top, at least imagine rappelling the west face "dulfursitz" (not Dusseldorf that's where Satchmo blew his horn when he went to Europe) from a single blade piton driven in under the east overhand with a direct outward pull on its one inch pinch. This was the first ascent style of Dave Goeddel and Dennis Adams in 1966 or 67.
In this context, I wish to applaud Mooser, who summited without oxygen, Tooth Rock in corded knickers while reverencing Gaston in muted thoughts.
Rick I say...is that really you!? Thanks for the ST welcome....I'm feelin it! Say, I remember hearing rumors of you climbing at Woodson in the late seventies when you were in law school. You are probably also feeling some remorse for neglecting Tooth rock. There is still time!
BVB! Whoever you are, you are this minute, my favorite artist.
Also bvb, about the chisel. It is traditional at Woodson to alter possible routes in order to make them impossible. I have done this personally many times and am long overdue for some credit.
Keep the love going BRO's! Also... we want to hear from KB, Duke # Wimbly.
-Bruce
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 10, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
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"In this context, I wish to applaud Mooser, who summited without oxygen, Tooth Rock in corded knickers while reverencing Gaston in muted thoughts," BA.
Thank you, Bruce. It was, in fact, very difficult to summit w/o supplemental O2, and I've lived quietly for many years with the humble, near-secret knowledge of that achievement. Having resisted the temptation to toot my own horn...I am glad you tooted for me.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 11, 2007 - 01:11am PT
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ALERT triple groaner ALERT
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 19, 2007 - 08:24am PT
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Brunosafari,
Man where did this thread go? A few days off of ST and a great thread falls nearly to the archives . . . so a rescue is in order.
It is quite shamefull now that I think about it. I better get back up there to Tooth Rock and finally do her. I'm feeling very unworthy right about now as a result. You know, I always thought that Tooth Rock looked like a trundle just waiting to happen.
This is good stuff. I really enjoy getting to know the roots of the San Diego scene. Thanks to all you Poway Mtn. Boys for all those good reads when I went through PHS. I spent a lot of time in there lost to those pages.
Now, how about the Royal Robbins sandbag story on the now classic "Robbins Crack"? From a distant thread I believe Greg mentioned you must know what really happened? Soooo many different stories and versions have been told on that one over the years; it is high time noon and the REAL story should be re-affirmed.
Klimmer
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 09:41am PT
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Klimmer, I think Bruce is climbing around Moab over this long weekend. He will certainly know the Robbins story. I think I'm out of good stories, more from having a bad memory about personal events than anything. I will say this about those days, being in the Poway Mountain Boys was mostly about having fun (commonly at each other's expense). We never took ourselves very seriously, at least up until, say, the late '70s. I can't imagine that any of us ever even went so far as doing pullups or otherwise working out for the benefit of our climbing (until later). Turns out, that there was alot of natural talent. But that was just gravy.
Bruce's brother Kinley (aka Whimp) , lurking here no doubt, was one of the funniest. It came seemingly at my expense more often than not, but funny is funny. I remember hanging out in the Humboldt parking lot below Tahquitz one time, probably 1971, when Mark Powell came strolling by. Kinley had said or done something stupid and everyone was chastizing him saying "Whimp!" Without missing a beat, just as Mark was passing him (and me), Kinley turns to me and says "Whimp!"
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 22, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
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Hi Klimmer and Eeyonkee and all Woodson devotees. Yea, I went to Moab and had a good time climbing my first desert tower (Castleton via the Kor route)!
Last year Royal Robbins showed up in Bend, Oregon, and gave a slide show and lecture to benefit an environmental cause here. After the show I visited Royal briefly and reminded him of when we first met at Mt. Woosdson, which I think was in 1969. He lit up immediately and told me that he "keeps hearing about a crack called the 'Robbins Crack', yet does not know or recall it." So after thirty- seven years I had to come clean and confess to him the truth of that moment...a sin of omission, yet bourne of respect and innocent shock.
You have to understand the mindset and stage of development of the Poway Mountaineers at that time. Our principle source of knowledge was "Summit" magazine, and in those days, Robbins was regularly submitting accounts of his mind-blowing big wall first ascents. Absolutely nothing in life could compete with our adoration. He and Chouinard and Pratt and Frost and the other Yosemite climbers were to us as Hercules and Odyssus and Apollo and Mickey Mantle. At this time I don't think any of us considered ourselves to be real climbers. It was all still a game of mainly imagination and desire. Yes, I had already climbed the Open Book at Tahquitz, but after all, real climbs had crevasses and Pendulum traverses and grade 6 nail-ups and
deadly hoar frost bivvys. Real climbers had things like ice daggers and fifi hooks, and were utterly fearless. Dave Goeddel's Dad had copies of the Rebuffat books with their spetacular alpine photography. Mt Woodson did not at all resemble those photos. We had heard of the theory of "jam" climbing and even saw pictures but it remainded elusive to us, something we thought was only possible if one was really extra muscular like those superhuman Yosemite climbers. When we bouldered, it really was like we were all play acting, hoping none of our family and friends would discover we were just like kids playing pirate.
Then I discovered that my freshman algebra teacher, Gary Hepler, had done some rockclimbing. We found out that he personally knew Royal Robbins from activities with the Rock Climbing Section (RCS) of the Sierra Club. He knew that Robbins was visiting San Diego to show his slides of Tissaack, so he called Royal and arranged for us to show him Mt. Woodson. Robbins was looking for places to serve as climbing lesson venues at that time.
Most of the Poway mountaineers were far too intimidated to actually meet Robbins. I can only recall Dave Goeddel and my brother Dennis and myself wating at Poway HIgh School for the rendezvoux, before going to Woodson. I think we must have been expecting superman to show up, only wearing the famous Robbins sport cap. We were utterly nervous and afraid he would laugh and spit after meeting us and seeing our silly little hill of boulders.
By and by a car pulled up and man dressed in casual business clothes walked over to us. We did not for one second realize that ordinary looking man was, in fact, Robbins. He asked us if we, by any chance, knew about a group of rockclimbers. Dave, suddenly realizing the inquisitor's identity, tried to talk. But out of his mouth, about ten octaves higher than his usual tone, came a shrill and paniced,
"You're Royal Robbins!!!???"
As he said this, he tried to remove his right hand from his own pocket but he was so excited his hand actually became stuck and he was using his other hand to try and help remove it.
That was, without question one of the most embarrassing moments of my life, but one one of the best. I'll wait and see if this thread is still alive before telling...
the REST OF THE STORY. I am traveling once again however and it will be a few days likely before I can return to the internet. -----BA
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