Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
|
Hey Frumy, Spider ...
I've been up there looking at it a few times. I've seen some anchor bolts that look kinda new, and some good places for natural anchors that I think will need some long slings to get the "master point" over the edge.
I'll get up there and just play around with it till it looks right I guess.
I wish I could come by tues or thurs but I work long hours mon-fri. I get to climb Sat mornings mostly.
Anyway, thanks ... I'll post again ... maybe w/ pix next time I get to Stoney
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
|
Long slings are very handy at Stoney.
A 100ft length of 10mm static rope is a fantastic way to go. I have one that I use to set up multiple TRs at the same time on B2 or Mozart's.
|
|
Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
|
Just checking in on this thread. I found my copy of the Stoney Point guidebook today while cleaning up in my storage area. It's still got the A-16 sticker on it for $3.50. I think I bought it in '87. It was a nice find.
|
|
Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
|
The "S" Crack, as is it is now known, was my very first climb ever. WHooooo Hoooo
I went to Stoney with Ken McNutt a few times and learned the basics from him.
Any other McNutt students out there?
|
|
BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2012 - 02:43am PT
|
Hey ... I got over to Stoney this afternoon.
Went to check out the top of S-Crack again
There are 3 bolts. One on the wall 10' down from the top and right at where you sneak under the boulder at the top. The other two are to the right of that boulder putting the master point to the right of the climb and possibly making for some drag on the belay line. All bolts look solid. However, I've got ideas for natural anchors ... need more long slings.
From the top, the last 12' does look tricky. Looks to be a back-to-the-wall and feet-out-front-on-the-opposite-side chimney shimmy thing with an overhang mixed in. I remember that this is not too hard except for the exposure ... you are 85' up the wall and friction climbing.
Looking fwd to this climb for sure now! Need to get a few more 30' webbing slings.
Anyway, a short but good afternoon.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2012 - 03:45am PT
|
Used to see Mcnutt out there regularly. The man could ride a bicycle that's for sure. He was just one of a whole group of interesting SP regulars. How about Mr. Mountain? So many good folks out there, still have dreams about the place, still can imagine the sequence of moves for so many boulder problems. Someday I'll get back there.
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
It's pretty bad right now....
100 in Chatsworth today, ggees berable around 6:30.
Go around back for the shade.
Drink plenty of cold drinks.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
|
don't do it guy!
hot temps could kill.
here is nice wave to kool u off!
the ocean end of topanga is where u should be.
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
|
Late night and early morning climbing!
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
|
Tfish.... nice digs no.
Did you get busted for a bivi on the Jesus wall?????
I was told that the Sheriff got a report of someone stuck on a cliff .... at night,
so they rolled out and got the perps to come down.
And pyro.... I hate the crummy beaches we have, to cold, to murky and mostly a bacteria stew. Now if it was Hawai it would be a different story.
We have a visitor, Martin is from Patagonia.... he is visiting relatives in Culver City.
Made it to Stoney, cause "every one knows
about this place" .
He did Slime and Hoof n Mouth first try.... he will be back Thursday, were going roundback.
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
|
Nah, didn't get busted and havn't gotten busted on it. A few months ago a cop shined his light up at us, but just drove off and didn't mess with us. But last night we did freeway crack and then a quick lap on Jesus Wall in the dark, then went to In N Out and then my buddy dropped me off and I did some bouldering and then slept at Motzarts.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
|
I was there till 9ish..... We were at B1 with headlamps.
Lots of new climbers out lately ..... I love the energy they bring with em.
Last nite this nice young lady .... maybe 18... was really trying hard on 3 pigs... she was getting close, but no cigar. Anyway she made this comment:
"I wish I could do nothing but go Rockclimbing - everyday"
I agree 100%
And one last thing... our Argintine visitor wanted to know if Jim Doninni climbs at Stoney, cause back home in Patagonia one of his favorite climbs is "Doninni Dehridal".. (sorry for mis spellings)....
I assured him that Stoney was one of Jims all time favorite places......
|
|
matty
Trad climber
under the sea
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
|
Guy his name was "Martin"
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
|
Matty.... 100% correct. You know I have problems remembern people's names....
Didn't remember yours for awhile too.
See you Thursday.... more jumar work for "Badger"?
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
|
And pyro.... I hate the crummy beaches we have, to cold, to murky and mostly a bacteria stew. forget that i ever sent him a refreshing wave pic!
funniest thing a certian climber dude told me out at stoney was that "Don't surf cuzz the waters too cold". WTF?
are u guy's doing the thursday BBQ yet?
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
|
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2012 - 01:21am PT
|
I'm down there for the Thurs nite weenie roast!
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2012 - 10:33am PT
|
I did some bouldering and then slept at Motzarts.
Hey T, you should have gone over to the cave near Turlock...there's some homeless guys who coulda kept you company. Bivying at Stoney...are you nuts?!! Did your gilrfiend kick you out?
Yer gunna die!
|
|
dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
|
I miss Stoney!! I miss climbing in general..
Hoping to see you all soon!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!