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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 21, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Kenygl...... say hi to Pete for me. So do you guys climb still?
I remember A-16 in WLA.... I worked on Cotner Ave across from the Beer and Wine House.
I know that place was popular with A-16 workers.
Long time ago.
It's Thursday and you know what that means?
Stoney Point.
Hope to see you and Pete again ....
late
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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1st off what a cool read this thread has been!!!
Im an old school boulder that hung around Stoney/jtree and Idlewild
Mostly Stoney since it was just down the street.
I have about 70 rolls of super 8mm I shot back in those days.
I havent looked at them in at least 25 years, until the other day, of the 5 or 6 I put in the projector one was of bouldering. The rest were surfing and skiing. So if that ratio holds true I should have about 12 rolls of stoney. I took the one roll into a photo place and had them convert it to digital. Anyways I post it on youtube. The quality is poor at best, but
nostalgic just the same. I climbed there like 4 times a week for 5 years
(78 thru 83) So maybe some of my old climbing buds are on these forums.
Here is the link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaUDFil_rAA
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Fabulous video! Thanks for the effort taken in putting it together and sharing.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Vintage8mm -------- thanks that was great.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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That old film is priceless. Thanks for letting us see...
You really ought to get it all transferred, the old films will not last forever.
Once digital, make backups...
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Thanks for posting that video!
My routes in order:
1) A variation of "Three Pigs" ??? (Boulder1)
2) "The Flake" (Turlock Boulder)
3) "The Crack" (B1 Boulder)
4) "The Corner" (Turlock Boulder)
5) Some boulder at base of Beethoven's wall
My Buddy's 1st ever attempt on a route is in there as well
(I was impressed)
Good going for your first year climbing! A couple of those are pretty hard...like the Crack on B1 boulder, or The Corner on Turlock. Both are about 11b today.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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vintage,
Cool little video. I love the Simon and Garfunkle to get the appropriate feel for the era.
I think once you get to be a certain age, those old shaky 8mm films seem pure nostalgia, the kind of stuff dad shot in the backyard when we were kindergarden and thought we could fly because we put a towel around our neck like a cape.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Rox,
Glad you're back. Don't let them get to you. They are children trying to get to you, goating you to lose it to get removed again. Ignore them. You can do it. Don't feed the trolls.
Stay here on ST. I like you're presents here. I like you contributing. Don't get kicked off. Just ignore them.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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8mm
Thank you for sharing....
please get the rest of it posted. The surfing too.
Do you still climb??
Stoney Point is very much alive today, lots of motivated kids learning how to really climb.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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Effing Rad!
8mm just spiced up this thread with a 34 year old flick of stoners point. love how Turlock is turlock. those big homes weren't even built yet.
i love it when history is brought back to life.
p.s. G_gnome showed me an old stoney point post card which had been taken a while back hope he gets it up here on the Stoney thread!
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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Thanks everyone for the great feedback on the video. Glad you enjoyed it.
@toadgas – We had to have crossed paths at some time out there. I remember going out there after work, hungry as hell and saying to myself “OK I’m just gonna do my 30 or so problems and get home and eat” Never seemed to work out that way, I’d spent another hour BSin with other climbers.
I didn’t think I’d ever say this aloud, but when I was watching the reels of super8, I’d say “wow look at Zeros beach or Leo Carrillo” I was laughing at the footage and old friends of the days. When the Stoney Point footage was on I welled up, I got teary eyed. I realized, at that moment, I don’t think I was ever more honest with myself than when I was exposed out on a rock wall. Do you get that? That’s why I just took the one reel in to be converted, I wanted to watch it again, but was too afraid to run that frail film through the projector again
@ Dos XX - Thanks Man. More to come
@ Frumy – Your welcome, Dog :) Frumy your post on May 11, I think I recognize someone. The guy in the blue zipper sweat shirt hat backwards with his arm around a girl. Is his name Jeff? I climbed many time with him.
@ Ksolem - Thanks and you’re welcome. Yes I intend to take the remainder into Hooper Camera (those guy are great and super helpful. Ive been going there for years …. plug plug )
@ toadgas - When someone asks “why do they call this Turlock boulder” show them my vid. LoL Remember the route “Pink Floyd” Had that pink paint all over the route
@ Fattrad – Doesn’t it? It doesn’t even have to be me on the route it just has to be the rock as recorded in my minds eye.
@ rincon – Thanks Buddy. I know it was my 1st year because I’m wearing EB’s Those shoes killed my feat. Europeans must have narrow feet or something ….. Buy American!! :p
@ Klimmer- Yeah Rox. Hang out! We got your back
@ guyman – Yeah I plan on it soon. Im just as curious and don’t feel like threading 70 reels of film thru a film gobbling projector. …. No I don’t climb any more. I set foot on Stoney for the 1st time since 83. I went there to find out the names of the routes I filmed. (never dawned on me to just look them up online )
I climbed a couple problems ….. It was fun, ….. but ….. Im not going to start again to climb 5.7/5.8 routes
@ boulderkitty – Thanks catgirl
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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@Fat Dad – Thanks Buddy. “I am a Rock” 1st song to come to mind. When I paired them up it felt magical (I gotta toot my horn on that call) I’ll take requests on the next vid. Lol
Funny you should say that, I have family film of myself and my brothers with towel caps …… really
@ Pyro – Thanks for starting this thread, Buddy! Sounds like you’re the Man at Stoney. The new Bob Kamps :)
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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A new bolted TR anchor has been placed at the top of Pink Drips thanks to Reagan Chung.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Yes that is Jeff.
Stop by & boulder with us most Tuesdays & Thursdays.
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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I ran a few more reels thru the projector
I have video of jeff (Late 70's) LOL
Idyllwild. If memory serves me correct
I believe the route is called "Sunday Surprise"?
Its f*#ked up footage but the basecamp shoot is clean
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BlueWing
Sport climber
Chatsworth, Ca
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Hey ... I'm new to your forum, but have been going to Stoney for many years.
I'd like to climb the S-Crack on the left side of the front wall and would like to ask about setting the anchor to toprope.
thoughts and comments?
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Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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vintage8mm,
Thanks, that movie really brings back memories of Stoney Point in the 70's, EB's on sandstone!
Al
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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Blue Wing, just do it. At Stoney you go up there and work things out.
Start by doing the S-Crack and repeat until you are in the territory you want.
If you have multiple ropes you could rig up a TR. Plenty of big anchors on top for the right side.
Lead that S-Crack if you're bold. The spicy 5.4 crux should protect with a #4 cam. I lead it with Hexes once in the 1980's.
The Main Chimney is a real fun lead. Do it during a cold spell in winter so the bees are not a problem. Unless you are just good with bees. Plenty of good cracks for natual pro. It's a fine lead. A little scary but solid moderate climb. Easier than it looks.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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^^^^ Spider is right on ^^^^
You are always welcome to come boulder with us on Tue. & Thurs.
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