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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Jul 12, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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I've been busy, but will have more time starting this week. I'm concerned that temps will be climbing by weeks end. If it's not too hot, maybe I can get over for a few days.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Jul 16, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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Hey folks
Thanks for all the hard work you're doing out there and hope that more people start to get out there to enjoy all the routes you're putting up for them.
I'm trying to get some info on "Captain Obvious," the line Grahm and Matt put up a long while ago at Grey Eagle. Also, any other info on moderate 5.7-5.9 routes. We're going up to check out the route Tom put up on Big Sleep in a few weeks and I'd like to climb some other moderate fun stuff.
Am I guessing that I should just skim through this thread of over 1000+ posts to get any beta/topos or is there other info around that I can find?
Thanks a lot and great work up there
Edit for below: Got it, thanks Tom!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jul 16, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Mason, check your email.
Tom
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jul 17, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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Mason -
Get with Matt on Capt. Obvious on the real deal. For the record, its NOT so obvious.
Hey Matt -
Did you ever get out to the Dark Helmet?? Hope you're keepin' that in reserve, nahmeen?
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Jul 18, 2010 - 03:23am PT
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That's what I heard. Apparently, it's pretty real.
My motto: You gotta crawl before you walk. Or is it, do or die?
Is Matt Schultz on the taco? I met the guy in Courtright. Pretty solid dude.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 18, 2010 - 11:14am PT
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That's what I heard. Apparently, it's pretty real.
My motto: You gotta crawl before you walk. Or is it, do or die?
Look, Jackson, SoYo is overwhelming.....ya just gotta go DO IT!!!!
Grey Eagle blew my mind the first time I saw it. That place is unreal....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 18, 2010 - 11:25am PT
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Cool place, sir Milktoast.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jul 18, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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yes... the Grey area... best to just climb there, tons to do. Don't bother with the rest. It's choss.
The natural line continues with plenty of pro. It's a tiny bit dirty but not a munge fest. It ends at a horizontal crack (which takes gear) between the two bolted anchors. If it hasn't been done, guess it should be called the "The Direct Kev Variation." It's pretty mellow, can't be harder than 5.6 but does follow the natural line. Kev... just to clarify, the "natural line" is The Lucky Number. If was done the same time I did Thief in the Night. But you can call if whatever you like :)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 18, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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Tom,
Hehe, I was pretty sure it had been done......
DMT,
That thing is dark and dirty..but an adventure!
kev
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Jul 25, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
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Big day yesterday/this morning. Mini photo trip report.
Started off with some river fun at Whiskey Falls on the way to Crocodile and Big Sleep dome.
Then up to Crocodile to climb some routes on the main wall and then off to add a new one to the lower wall.
Mike on Runnelicious 10a
Then FA'd a new one to its right Runnelrama 10b
Watched the sun set and the moon rise.
Then Justin and I hiked up to Big Sleep and started climbing a new one to the right of Moonlight Madness. We left the parking lot at 10:30pm. Stoked to try another fa on the wall by moonlight.
Ground up we added 2 new pitches on the far right side of the dome. The third pitch was really tough and had to start aiding to make progress up the steep wall. This really slowed us down. We didn't have the right gear and with dawn fast approaching we rapped back down totally tapped out. The weather was great though. I was in a tshirt all night and we got to work on our moon tans. Got back down and watched the moon set and the sun rise. whew!
Insomnia - 5.8 - 2 pitches - Follow the far right side of the dome and up to the start. It starts under the large overhanging nose 2 pitches higher.
P1*** 5.8 - 50m - 11 bolts, 1.25” cam, ring anchor - Climb up the ramp and weave through cool shallow dishes working your way up through golden stone. The anchor is on a small comfy ledge.
P2** 5.7 - 60m - 6 bolts, 3” cam and 1” to 1.5” gear, ring anchor - Head up and left from the anchor on black rock. Link together some great shallow pockets and head up to the left side of the roof system. Pull over the left side of the roof (3” cam) and follow two bolts up the good features to a short finger crack (1” cams) head right a little and into the dihedral to the anchor.
P3 project - Climb up the steep face to a dihedral on the left side of the overhanging nose. We'll be back!
FA Grahm Doe, Justin Ross 7-2010
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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Super cool. Great effort and high adventure!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 26, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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Insomnia - 5.8 - 2 pitches - Follow the far right side of the dome and up to the start. It starts under the large overhanging nose 2 pitches higher.
P1*** 5.8 - 50m - 11 bolts, 1.25” cam, ring anchor - Climb up the ramp and weave through cool shallow dishes working your way up through golden stone. The anchor is on a small comfy ledge.
P2** 5.7 - 60m - 6 bolts, 3” cam and 1” to 1.5” gear, ring anchor - Head up and left from the anchor on black rock. Link together some great shallow pockets and head up to the left side of the roof system. Pull over the left side of the roof (3” cam) and follow two bolts up the good features to a short finger crack (1” cams) head right a little and into the dihedral to the anchor.
P3 project - Climb up the steep face to a dihedral on the left side of the overhanging nose. We'll be back!
FA Grahm Doe, Justin Ross 7-2010
Texture of that rock looks awesome!
question on the 'FA' though...
should it read like this? :)
Insomnia - 5.8 - 2 pitches - Follow the far right side of the dome and up to the start. It starts under the large overhanging nose 2 pitches higher.
P1*** 5.8 - 50m - 11 bolts, 1.25” cam, ring anchor - Climb up the ramp and weave through cool shallow dishes working your way up through golden stone. The anchor is on a small comfy ledge.
P2** 5.7 - 60m - 6 bolts, 3” cam and 1” to 1.5” gear, ring anchor - Head up and left from the anchor on black rock. Link together some great shallow pockets and head up to the left side of the roof system. Pull over the left side of the roof (3” cam) and follow two bolts up the good features to a short finger crack (1” cams) head right a little and into the dihedral to the anchor.
FA Grahm Doe, Justin Ross 7-2010
P3 project - Climb up the steep face to a dihedral on the left side of the overhanging nose. We'll be back!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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Cool pics Grahm.
That Lower Croc Rock face looks pretty cool. I love that there is potential for so much amazing moderate climbing to be done up there. While I have enjoyed many of the high end sport routes at Shuteye, I think it's the quality and proliferation of moderate routes that will ultimately put the place on the map.
Hoping to see you in another month or two - it's been far too long.
 Louie
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
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Yup, you got it Munge. Still feeling fuzzy and tired from "No Sleep on the Big Sleep" as Justin would say. Surprised I even typed some semi coherent sentences yesterday. But I guess thats nothing new :-)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 26, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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All,
The down log blocking the last bit of the drive to LE was removed Sunday.
kev
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jul 26, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
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Kev, by you? If so, thank you. It takes a village. Grahm, how hard will pitch 3 be do you think? I take it Justin's back is better. Good for him. Jeremy hope that leg heals fast. Grahm needs partners :)
And Louie is combing back. Grahm, things are looking up for you.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jul 26, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
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Well "E" for effort anyway! We all do our part, eh? Even the pine cone huggers. Never been to Lost Eagle or the Balls... How was it? Someday soon. So much out there to see and do.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 26, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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I had a blast, Slater. Lots of stone at both places....
The pine cone dude was really nice.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jul 26, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Lots of stone at both places....
Before you get all excited about the "lots of stone" part, be sure to get a current topo from Nate D regarding The Lost....30 plus sport and trad routes, ranging from 5.7 to .12a. Should be plenty to play on for a lifetime. Nahmeen? ;)
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Jul 26, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
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Bluey - you mean this bad boy?
Charming Dawn says thumbs up too!
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