southern yosemite

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Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:26am PT
Sue, we did the first 2 pitches, kinda a low energy day. Both were great! The last move on P2, in your face, took me a while. I kept trying to find a way to reach those good holds at the end, 2" to short, without stepping up. All I can say is that wall is stacked with gems.
susu

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Jun 30, 2010 - 10:29am PT
Nice Jeff! Amazing how clean and good the second pitch in particular is...
You would probably like the 3rd and 4th too. Esp. the 4th.

kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 30, 2010 - 11:47am PT
I talked to Matt last night and I think LE should be no problem. Heading out in a few hours :)

kev
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jun 30, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
Who else is heading out to SoYo this weekend?

Kev, do you have Valley Giants?

Jeff
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
Spenser, Chris and crew are coming up from SF. Albert and guiding crew are gonna be partying up there. Tom, Mike and Brent are coming up. I'll be up Saturday and Monday. Kev, John, and Sue I assume will be you know where...what are your plans? I am thinking High Eagle/ 50 5.7's on Saturday and showing people around Crocodile on Monday.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
Hey Grahm! Lots going on. 50 5.7s sounds fun, still a few there I haven't done. Would also like to bump into Albert and crew. And the shades of Gray is allways calling. Gotta finish John and Sue's route Eschers Way. Of course I also have my eye on a few things out there.

Put anything new up?

Jeff
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Jun 30, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
Snow? What snow?
Something new.
Thank heavens summer is here!
susu

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:02am PT
Alright! We might just get upto High Eagle and 50-5.7s finally!

Grahm, I'll bet Kev's on the road already. I heard he was going up to meet Matt and you...

John and I and a few friends including hopefully Jeff... hope to mix it up. Go to Gray... but also check out higher ground. Hopefully our Toyota makes it to the High Eagle area and other places... Maybe we'll all cross paths at some point!

P.S. Tork - looking forward to seeing you on Escher's! :)


Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jul 1, 2010 - 10:25am PT
Thanks Susan, I will see you and John out there for sure! 50 5.7s has the 2 best 10+ sport routes have done anywhere. Also a few other fun routes and a few newish routes that Grahm put up that I have yet to do.


Tom, where's something new? You heading up for the weekend?


Grahm, where and what are your latest new routes? You have a topo for
50 5.7s

Jeff
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Jul 1, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
I'll bring what I have up with me. For 50 5.7's its just a list of all the routes with a description. I haven't drawn in the routes on the photos yet. Hope to see ya all on Saturday for High Eagle / 50 5.7's double crag day.

In other news Jeremy Ross from North Fork broke his ankle playing softball. His climbing season has been cut short but send him some positive vibes for a quick recovery. If you haven't met him he is a really cool local with a chill vibe and life long love of the area.

Jeremy and his brother Justin have been getting back in to shape with me out at Crocodile the last few weeks. I have been filling in the last few lines left I wanted to do. Heading up today to hopefully send the latest one. Theres almost 20 routes out there now. How about you guys any new classics finished?

Heres a link to the full slideshow (copy / paste into browser) if you want to check it out and a few pics from the series below...

http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/6-20 24 26-10 Crocodile Dome/?albumview=slideshow








HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 1, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
Home in Fresno by 2:00am.

As long as you were climbing in the night, a shame you were in such a hurry. Was a beautiful lunar eclipse starting about 3:30 AM.
Otherwise Well Done!
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Jul 6, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
So around 17+ folks converging on Shuteye in one long weekend...

Let the spray commence! :)

Bet Grahm's Shuteye Shuttle Bus was busy. (fun pic earlier)

Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Jul 7, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
Only 3 cars at High Eagle camp overnight on Saturday. Last year there were 20 cars (mostly due to the Toyota commercial shoot) Seems Shuteye is more sleepy this year.

Jeff and I went over to 50 5.7's where he onsighted some of my new routes and I got to try Cruising Blackstone one of the best 10d face climbs I have ever sampled.

Heres an FA pic from Monday of - Poacher 11b

Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Jul 7, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
Grahm, I'm stoked you liked C.B! Did you check out the continuation over the roof at the top? Where's Poacher?
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jul 7, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
Not a sole in sight on nightw#tch last thursday when Matt and I put up a route. It did however get it's second ascent friday by Drew and his partner!

What did you two think of P2?

Pics coming soon...

kev
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jul 8, 2010 - 12:24am PT
Urmas, Cruising Blackstone and the other 10 to the left are two of the best sport routes I have done anywhere. Thanks!

Jeff
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 8, 2010 - 01:46am PT
Pics coming soon...

You always say that....tease! Post 'em!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Jul 8, 2010 - 04:51pm PT

1,000 feet of 5.6-5.7, 5 pitches in all.
All 60m, bolted anchors. Ground up.
Lots of fun.

Full TR below...

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Shuteye-1-000-new-route-up-Big-Sleep/t10683n.html
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Jul 10, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
Hey Urmas,

I did look at the extension. Looks like maybe 3 more bolts up an overhanging knob covered finish. Doesn't look like it will change the grade of the climb. Its going to make an already amazing climb that much more unbelievable. I'll get to it someday.

Poacher is out at Crocodile. Just fa'd a new one there yesterday. "Don't Take It For Granite" 11c/d. Pulls a roof using a heel toe lock in a water runnel. Then climbs up a deep featured water groove. Maybe we can get some pics of it this weekend.
You heading up to Shuteye this summer?
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
I've been busy, but will have more time starting this week. I'm concerned that temps will be climbing by weeks end. If it's not too hot, maybe I can get over for a few days.
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