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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Hi Bruce. It'll be good to connect with you and "the Friction King" together. Tim and I have talked about coming down your way quite often. I think when he and I were at Leavenworth, it was the first time he'd been on rock since his accident in JT. In any case, see you sometime in the not too distant future.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Ooooo, Mooser...I was there. I can still hear his bones crushing! BA
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 07:54am PT
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BA. EEEYONKEEE! Glad to hear from you. Finally, another Poway Mountain Boy. Coming to Colorado? No way. Sending you my number.
Don't know how to reach Piggot. His name gets mentioned here a fair bit - he just kept getting better while most the rest of us trailed off a bit in the 80's. I'd love to see some old Woodson pictures - or Tahquitz/Suicide/Valley for that matter.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Englekirk might have Rick's contact info...and Reno/Tahoe locs seen RP's big red rig lately?
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Thanks 426. Englekirk is in Mammoth, right?
Both my parents grew up in Tennessee. Where is Buzzard Point? Near any climbing? How do you survive summer? Ever been to Woodson? BA
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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TAR! Oh yeah I remember some of those...A while back Mussy said he still had some of the really gnarly ones. They cannot fall into the wrong hands! Or else they might be coming after all of us with the butterfly nets!!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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"Ooooo, Mooser...I was there. I can still hear his bones crushing! BA"
I think Tim still hears them, too!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Hey Bruno-
Try looking up Doug in Zephyr Cove, NV--RP was doing some work for DE. Tearing up all the areas around tahoe a few years back
Buzzard is up by Dayton (famous for the Scopes trial). Pretty bullet for sandstone but of course no where near the "density" of Poway graniticas. Lots of buzzards up there. Where'd your folks live?
I've been to Sweet Eggs of woodson a few times eons ago, way before "my bros could call with a cell phone". Had high aspirations, did a few standards (Robbins) one of Longo's cracks but mostly got shut down-pawed at MS, Gregs and a number of other fissures. Pretty lucky not to get choppered out, actually. Werd, bvb, I still use "woodson landing" as a benchmark...
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Thanks 426 for the Piggott leads! My parents grew up in Henry County, West (flat) Tennessee, near Nashville. Dad joined the Navy after high school and found himself at Pearl Harbor just in time for the invasion. After twenty years in the Navy he bought a house in Poway, at that time just nothing but small valleys surrounded by boulders. I can recall my first day in Poway at age five--my brothers and I climbed some boulders in our neighbor's back yard.
Grug (eee-onk-eee), also in Poway, actually had boulders in his back yard. In the mid sixties we had several favorite bouldering spots in Poway, some of which are now in the yards of private residences. For any high school kids out there who want to ditch class and boulder like their Poway ancestors, prime spots were: Rattlesnake Hill (by the cemetery), Big Friction and Flakey Edges (below the RB watertower, Tooth Rock (the definitive Poway Boulder, atop a hill just south of High Valley and prominent when driving to Romona), Molar Rock, (South of the High Schol on the east side of Espola rd. School) and the RB Safeway boulders (intersection of Pomerado Rd and Espola). I'm not sure which ones are still accessible. But these places are more interesting than the gym!
I would love to climb in Tennessee someday 426. I'll make a note of Buzzards.
BA
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Oh man, BA, you just listed all my old favorite in-town haunts! I remember the cops giving me a really hard time at the Safeway boulders because of the funny white powder I was carrying. The local residents eventually had it all fenced in, but there were some great little problems in that pile. My brother John and I did Tooth Rock with pins and corduroy knickers, and thought we would make Rebuffat proud. My folks followed our "summit bid" through binoculars in the backyard. We got chased out of the boulders up by the water tower more than once, and now I think there are some McMansions up there. And (though I never knew it/them by this name) "Molar Rock" had some really good stuff on it--especially the face on the southern one facing Espola. I sure wish I had something like that around Seattle.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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GL BA, we got a few crags with better access and more routes (ie T-Wall). A few boulders, too, but nothing quite like the splitters down 'Poway'. Must've been fantastic cuttin' class for some graniticas---!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2007 - 09:35am PT
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Big Friction, Flakey Edges, Tooth Rock, Molar Rock, ...and Mt Woodson. You couldn't ask for a better place to grow up. The boulders in my back yard included several 5.11 mantels.
And let me tell you all, Bruce was probably the best climber of the Poway Mountain Boys (after Piggot).
(Bruce, check your ST email account)
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mdavid
Big Wall climber
CA, CO, TX
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Great problems on the north facing hillside behind pomerado hospital. Also east side of espola after going down hill southbound there are some great boulders with cool friction problems, believe we had to get permission though as they're in a yard...but just off the road.
Seems the rocks around poway were inspiration for quite a few of us.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Greg, Bruce et al.,
Man you guys are stirring up memories:
'70/'71 3rd grade: The movie "SOLO" changed my life from team sports to outdoor adventure. Involved in Y-Indian Guides, Cub Scouts, and Wheeblos (sp?) while living in Pt. Loma.
'71/'72 4th grade: My family moved to Garden Road in Poway. Boulders galore on the South facing hillsides and up the canyon. I thought I was living in the wilderness. Poway changed my life. Started climbing those Boulders and even rappelling with a hemp rope using the through the legs and over the shoulder method (Dusseldorf tech.?). Burned my neck bad. The hillsides still are open and climbable although definately more homes in the area and now up the canyon.
'72/'73 5th grade: Moved to Midland Road area and joined Scout Troop 608. Many of the older scouts in the troop were into climbing. Troop 608 was very active; we went everywhere backpacking, hiking, and even bouldering. The summer of '73 I took the class "Geography of California" from my 5th grade teacher, and we backpacked up Mt. Whitney at the end of the class. Bouldered in the Alabama Hills with my dad. Near our house was "Butt Crack Rock" on the Eastside of Midland Road on the West face of the hill. Climbed on that a bunch. But the real gems were the boulders all over Twin Peaks Mountain, but mostly the Southside. Bouldered all over Twin Peaks Mtn. for the next 7 years, and my dogs would almost always go with me. Tooth Rock: got up there and looked at it a few times, and saw the fixed pins in it. Never climbed it though. About this time was the first time my dad and I went to Mt. Woodson and made it a family outing. Our church just off of Espola Road, "Pomerado Christian Church" we helped build it and even to this day it has these fine boulders on the East side of the church. I had a whole circuit worked out on them. To the North of the parking lot is a fine hilltop of boulders and good climbing. There is a cross erected there. This is just south of the Safeway boulders in RB. Climbed on them a little, but it was definately private property even then. To the North of Espola Road as you drive from RB back to Poway, there are a large group of boulders that was near one of my climbing partner's house, Tim Umstead. Climbed on those a few times. Then the boulders at the far East end of Lake Poway, on the western end of Mt. Woodson were pretty good also.
'73/'74: 6th grade at Twin Peaks Middle School. Scouts, backpacking, taking the Sierra Club's "Basic Mountaineering" course. I still have the little red "Bible" from that great course I took with my dad and older sister. Many trips up to Mt. Woodson, but it was always with my dad and sister. So I didn't get to go as often as I would have liked. The fashion at school, Vasque backpacking boots with red laces, levis, and my big puffy green down jacket on cold days. The backpack of the time was my A-16 "Hip Hugger." I still have my A-16 backpack including my dad's. Cigarettes were cheap down at the U-totem near TPMS.
'74 - '80: Eventually stopped scouts but the backpacking, skiing at Mammoth, and climbing were my life. I could only get up to Woodson as I could convince my dad to drive, or my other climbing partners' parents, but in '77 when I got my license we were up there nearly every weekend until I left Poway in 1980 for Beaverton, OR. My family moved in the middle of my Senior year at PHS. So my picture is in the yearbook, but I did not get my Phd. However, I did get to see Mt. St. Helens blow on May 18th, 1980. In fact, my climbing buddy and I were on the South face of Beacon Rock doing a route on 5-18-80. The PHS library was great with a good view of the Western ridgeline of Mt. Woodson out the windows in the back of the library. They had a very good mountaineering and climbing section. I think I checked out all the books multiple times. You guys were probably instrumental in PHS having such a good mountaineering section in the library - yes?
Growing up in Poway was awesome.
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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bvb, give is the scoop on 10a on the outside, was that in tennis shoes or what's up with the Lie Detector-seemed pretty straightforward-perhaps 11b oh how about the "Emergency Broadcast System"?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Welcome Bruce! Hope all is well. If you are serious about coming to Colorado, it would be great to get together.
For those who don’t know him, besides being an original Poway Mountain Boy, Bruce was also a close friend and climbing partner of Tobin Sorenson. My memories include great times in Yosemite/Tuolumne in the early 70’s and Bruce’s moving eulogy for Tobin at the funeral 1980.
Rick
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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kp -- 5.10a on the outside -- woodson 5.11a
lie detector -- sheeit, once you get something so wired you huck laps on it, how the hell can you rate it?? woodson 5.11d?
emergency broadcast system -- got a new pair of anasazi velcros and 6" of too swole foam. going to woodson next weekend. SO SENT!!! i will prevail!! bringin' a chisel, by god!!!
but these days, i'm pimpin' on a different tip......new deep-water solo routes down by lake poway....
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
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I worked at Lake Poway for two years just after it opened in 1973. Rainbow trout, large mouth bass, bluegill, and catfish....no sharks (could be new management).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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great whites, imported from NorCal. stocked 'em myself. keep it sporty, guys n' gals!!
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