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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 22, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
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Jeremy, Great to meet you man, you're one lucky guy living right there! You and your bro were so chill. Good luck on your project. Looks fun and hard.
Here is a basic topo of those two routes I was talking about Nate...
There are a bunch of other worthy routes there too.
It looks like my route goes up by a crack, but it's really a wide gash, and wasn't as fun to climb as the knobby face out left.
edit: Hartman says the 5.8 goes in two pitches. I tried to do it in one and got shut down about 20' from the top (ran out of cams) and that's probably why it felt harder than 5.8 to me a guess. If I had had one more #2 and one more #3 I'd have had it in the bag in one long pitch. Dang. Walk off left is easy.
Looks good eh!?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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cool share, Tom. Thanks.
Yea, by now those Ross brothers must have many dozens of fine routes to their credit in that neck of the woods.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 23, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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yeah that and they help carry your gear, offer to recharge batteries, and point the way to new walls. Talk about local hospitality! If only local surfers were that cool, ha ha.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 24, 2010 - 12:58am PT
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Jeremy, check your email...
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stella
climber
cali
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Jun 24, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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maybe a stupid question but....is the road open? or potentially open by 4th of july weekend?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 24, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
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Many crags off the Minarets Rd are open (which rd. you wondering about?) but Central Pass won't be open for awhile.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 24, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
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Took advantage of all that snow out there last weekend... but damn, that first bolt is gona be way up there for whomever does the second ascent.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 25, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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We had a go at Whiskey Bill on Wamello this past Friday night.
Got to within a mile and a half before we came around a corner and saw this.
A couple climbers tuck for FOUR HOURS diggin out thier Subie. We yanked 'em out in three minutes and saved the day....Night. It was 8PM!
Fortunately we came prepared not to get stuck or shut down.
We were racked and rollin by 8:30 and at the top of the ridge by sunset. The quads were money! (I made Nate ride my seven year old son's 90.)
Drifts were encountered every 300 yards for the last couple miles. You cannot drive fully into the "parking lot" as of this week.
We were at the base by 9PM....but it was the Solstice and we got to rack up just in time for the sun to fully peter out.
I racked up in the dark and we had a blast by headlamp. Five fun and varied pitches of supercool chickenheads and moderate cracks.
Made it to the summit by 11:30 in time to Karate Chop the Moon.
Back on the Quads by midnight.
Home in Fresno by 2:00am.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 25, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
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Interesting trip there, Micro.
Thanks for the road update!
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Mungeradomas
Gym climber
Deep State of Philosophical Mind Bending
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Jun 25, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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I predict:
a new trend in climbing approach equipment
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 26, 2010 - 12:17am PT
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I doubt it
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stella
climber
cali
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Jun 26, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
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sorry, i meant is the road into shuteye open yet?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 26, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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yes and no
To Big Sleep, Crocodile, etc. - yes
To Gray etc. - yes
To High Eagle, Dreamscape, Shangri La etc. - no
Shuteye is vast and there are many roads leading to paradise
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 27, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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By the way...we only took the quads to the parking spot at Fresno Dome. No wilderness travel, to those who might have thought we were playing foul.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Jun 29, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Awesome TR Micro! Way to go prepared and make dreams come true.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 29, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
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Anyone know for certain about the roads to High Eagle/LE? Still closed/snowed in really? Last update was 3 days ago, but can't believe this winter is taking forever to thaw.
Yup, Micro, fun TR on night climbing! Lots of light cast by the last full moon!
Zander, Shuteye does offer a lot of especially nice wide climbs!
Here are photos showing more snow banks at the start of the base of climbs.... just to prove Tork right.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 29, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
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Eschers Way!
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two2tandem
Trad climber
BASS LAKE, CA
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Jun 29, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
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Drove down Grizzly yesterday. Still some decent snow patches at the turnoff from Beasore on the side of the road, but the main road is clear. Didn't try to get down to Lost Eagle, but from the looks of things I would be surprised if you didn't still hit a few small snow patches in the shade once you turn off Grizzly. It's been HOT here the last couple of days and I am guessing most of everything will be cleared up by this weekend. Either way you can definitely get close enough to walk if you are motivated to add 30 minutes to the approach.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 30, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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Jeff? Did you guys do it? What did you think?
two2tandem - Thank you much for the update!
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