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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Cochise local...
Species Greenus Poopus Eatus, found only in AZ
Arizona pro
Another AZ local
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bob
climber
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Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Cheers AZ
Bob Jensen
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Hey Bob. E mail me. Jefe Bret Harte
The Mountain IS special.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A little Prescott mood music from BITD.
Please don't dominate the rap, jack, if youve got nothing new to say.
If you please, don't back up the track this trains got to run today.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
I heard someone say better run away, others say better stand still.
Now I don't know, but I been told its hard to run with the weight of gold,
Other hand I have heard it said, its just as hard with the weight of lead.
Who can deny, who can deny, its not just a change in style?
One step down and another begun and I wonder how many miles.
I spent a little time on the mountain, I spent a little time on the hill
Things went down we dont understand, but I think in time we will.
Now, I don't know but I was told in the heat of the sun a man died of cold.
Keep on coming or stand and wait, with the sun so dark and the hour so late.
You can't overlook the lack, jack, of any other highway to ride.
Its got no signs or dividing lines and very few rule to guide.
I saw things getting out of hand, I guess they always will.
Now I don't know but I been told
If the horse dont pull you got to carry the load.
I don't know whose backs that strong, maybe find out before too long.
One way or another, one way or another,
One way or another, this darkness got to give.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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From Jim Waugh's Guide to Granite Mountain, 1982.
What a plum at 5.11-!!!!!
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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DAMN, Grossman drops some Dead on us! HEY NOW!
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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S.G. should recognize this quote-
"From every street and corner in Tucson we see the mountains...But of all the peaks and ranges that keep their sentinel posts around the Old Pueblo there are none so bold in the outlines of their granite heights and rugged canyons, so exquisitely beautiful in their soft colors of red and blue and purple, or so luring in the call of their remote and hidden fastness, as the Santa Catalinas." Harold Bell Wright, 1923
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Fickeroo™ style bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Where did you come across that HBW quote?
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Grossman- The quote came from the '85 Steiger guide to Mt. Lemmon and Sabino Canyon.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Dave Stephens on Ganja - 12d @ The Homestead
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Matt Hulet on Ground Effects - 11c @ The Homestead
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Sally on Slow Poke - 11a @ The Homestead
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Louie Anderson on Speedy Gonzales - 11d @ The Homestead
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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Man, I SO want to go to the Homestead!
It's one of the undones on my Arizona checklist.
Thanks for the pics - the drive in sounds rough...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Well sh#t Largo, I didn't know you all did that thing Gunsmoke with hexes! So, I gotta ask. Did you pre place em or jangle that sh#t in on the move?
Love that route. Love that rock. Its where I learned to climb.
Cheers AZ
Bob Jensen
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Hi Bob:
No preplacement - how would you do so on that arch, anyhow.
Right after Coatamundi Whiteout, I looked at Jump Back Jack Crack (looked stout) but we went for the new route instead - Gunsmoke.
Lynn (Hill) got up the lyback at the bottom and up to the arch before she ran out of light. We left the gear and returned the next morning. This was just when Friends had first come out and we only had a couple - I think only one big one that would fit in the arch.
Lynn and I kept yo-yoing up to and out that arch and hanging on for dear life and trying to wiggle hexes in and backtracking because we were afraid of lowering off or falling onto the sketchy pro. Must have muscled out and back along that arch like five times before finally going (quite a ways) for it off Hexes I was sorta wondering about.
We had a third guy (Keith C.) who followed and pinged, ripped the last two Hexes and shot into a tremendous sideways whipper -the wall is pretty steep there. The arch wasn't nearly as bad as trying to wiggle in those hexes. That was truly a Gunsmoker.
Wonder how folks do that thing these days with good shoes and a rack full of cams. Maybe it's only 5.11 after all.
Wish I could have stayed longer and bagged some other plumbs, but we only had the weekend. I thought Coat. Whit. was a fine route and the crag was a gem.
I always thought that Arizona had some of the greatest climbing and summits in America. I've always been jealous of the guys who first bagged all those desert spires and also of Todd Gordon who lived out there and climbed all that cool obscure stuff.
JL
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bob
climber
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Largo, I had five #4 Camalots (5 years ago) and a smaller friend. I believe it was a #4. Just went out across and got pumped. Was doing quite well until the last Camalot proved to have a trigger wire that wanted to break right then and there. I managed to stuff a foot and part of a leg up there, got the damn thing in and gunned it, but surely not like you gunned it. My buddy Jake followed and pulled it off frozen stiff. Hilarious. I thought that just once I might have the chance to see him fall on something I led clean. Nope. Not then, not ever. I'm so bad.
Thanks for the story!
Bob J.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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largo-
Steve Byrne said that Gunsmoke would be 11+ if you ran out the last 35'- he made the first onsight of the route in the mid 1980's- of course he had his own Wired Bliss #5's to protect it.
as for the coati roof, you beat Jim Waugh by only a few weeks- he was very sad about your visit. Thing is, Reveley and Greene were up at the roof their last day on '76 but got too cold in T-shirts and shorts and bailed off then walked out. They certainly were strong enough to do the roof...
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
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Todd: All those pics remind me of Rob Slater...RIP
Thanks for all the great posts and history.
Look for the NEW NORTHERN ARIZONA GUIDEBOOK coming soon (sadly discluding most of Todd's mostly-illegal-now ascents) to you - hopefully may or June if we can get it all together.
Big party at Vertical Relief in Flagstaff!
There, Greg, you have your rightness. It was, ultimately, a plug for our guide.
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