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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:15am PT
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Jul 20, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
Jul 20, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
Pete, why are you involved in this? You couldn't even get up the first pitch WITH a top-rope. Why don't you STAND DOWN and let someone who has actually been up there take the reins.
Your taking advantage of someone else's (Kait and my) hard work. Face it, you wouldn’t have a story if there was no 2nd ascent.
Go work on your own project.
Went climbing in Der this afternoon, had a gas! I kept thinking about this though...and the more I think about it Ammon, I can't help but think your post was just rude! No worries, I've written things in hindsight I regretted later due to rudeness too. I can see where you are coming from, but Pete has a long history with this route; he's tried it, he's spent a ton of time on El Cap, he's talked with the first ascent party, heck he's talked with anyone involved who will discuss it with him. He's posted at great length about it on this forum. He has also posted quite a bit about how awesome your second ascent was/is!
I don't know you personally, but my impression from seeing you on videos and reading about your rad exploits on El Cap, along with reading your posts on SuperTopo, is that you are very cool. I was quite surprised to see this very negative post from you. Let's demean Pete, who is obviously a very experienced climber who did his best on WOS, about his inability to climb what is clearly an insanely hard and dangerous climb. Then to say "STAND DOWN"?
Welcome to the wonderful world of journalism. I can fully understand where you are coming from, you'd like to tell the story yourself. Why not write something like:
"Pete, I'd appreciate writing my own story about this without any speculation"...or something like that, without being so ugly...
There, done...just wanted to add to what I wrote earlier. I also enjoyed reading Pete's input...and I look forward to the story written by yourself!
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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One of the shitters was the fifth Lowe brother Clarence.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:47am PT
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Did that make it a Lowe blow?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 21, 2011 - 03:35am PT
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pk_davidson:
"Carrion, my wayward son,
There'll be peace when Ammon writes,
lay this weary thread to rest,
don't you scream no more..."
Whoa, an instant classic, right up there with "One Hand in My Chalkbag"!
"... we don't know sh#t" Ha ha ha!
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Jul 21, 2011 - 08:31am PT
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Did that make it a Lowe blow?
+1,000,000
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:24am PT
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Agree with j-tree.
Yo set it up and Mighty Hiker hits it out of the park!
Good work guys.
Prod.
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BASE1361
climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:54am PT
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Hummerchime:
If you knew the Canadian ASSassin you wouldn't even let him near your wife and kids. Regardless of how many walls/nights he wants to toot his own horn about daily.
What Ammon said was as nice as it should be for someone like Pete.
What kind of AssClown would call themselves a Wall Dr. and then gives themselves their own nickname. Usually one's friends gives you a nickname.... Pete had no friends and makes one up, he was so butt hurt that Big Wall Pete was taken by Takeda.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:20am PT
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"Yay verily did we set forth into the realm of diamond stone, just we few stout warriors. We cast our cordage merrily to the four winds and hooketh our way into history.
There was the El Cap Pirate Sir Ammon of B.A.S.E., who was fleet of foot, but not fleet enough to outrun constable chubbies tazing device. Then the lovely Kait, more beautiful than El Capitan, with her flowing locks and a brave stout heart. Super maternal mother with her ever shimmering quill followed closely our journey through the sea of stone.
We followed the ghosts and legends of Sir Mark and Sir Richard, yay those humble monks once so maligned for their vision even to their strings of hope verily shat upon.
We even had The wicked Sir Pete, the humble scribe and now new villain of the play, whose hot wind blew at our backs and lifted us ever higher upon the terrifying precipice. And editor Baron-Von-What's-His-Face crying for ink!
And yet how can I leave out the seething mewing masses of Supertopo? Those invisible tribesmen of electrons, cheering, raging, ranting and guessing they too had a part in this mighty quest?"
Ah, the theatah, the greatest stage of all.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:07am PT
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hey ammon-
you know what would set your legacy in stone as a legend?
(someone already said it upthread, forget who)
just keep it to yourself.
as curious as i am to hear the story,
and as much as i dislike what matt posts (he acts like a spurned lil bitch towards ptpp),
this is really good advice....
btw, the bitchiness and name calling on this thread are pathetic, bitches...
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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While I do agree that the details of the SA are certainly Kaits and Ammons to tell. I am grossly interested in the history of this route, and grasping the feel of the Valley during that era. It seems that Pete has taken it upon himself to write this story, and I cannot wait to read it, as well as Kaits and Ammons SA TR. Maybe PTPP could start another thread.
What I would like to see is a clear break down of the events.
1. New guys show up and start climbing a slab?
2. Word spreads?
3. When did these guys start getting harassed?
4. When did SAR get involved with some meeting?
5. Who inspected the route, supposedly at night and drunk, and reported back that it is a bold ladder? If this is not the case than this guy or party is pretty guilty of starting a lot of this brew? No?
6. When did the chopping take place? Who chopped? Isn’t that something you do after you climb a route, and do with conviction and pride, not in anonymity? I do not know as I have never done it.
7. Were the choppers the shitters? Is that why the anonymity?
8. A time line of that 2 month period would be nice.
Are Matt and Base1361 the same person?
Prod.
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Gene
climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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Pete = advocate ≠ reporter. As DMT says, op-ed ≠ reporting. The SA story is Ammon’s, who can choose to op-ed, report, or be silent.
I suggest that one evening at Facelift there be a presentation in the auditorium featuring the FA and SA teams, the advocates, the haters, a Cobra infused crowd, and whipped cream pies. That would be fun.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:45am PT
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Wow Gene, you're not just a pretty face but an effing brilliant one at that! We would have to dye the whipped cream brown to experience fully what you are suggesting here.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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Ha! Peter! Brown cream pies! That would be so friggen funny!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Mark, don't you think we have something here?
Obviously we would use coffee or chocolate for the brown color. Diffuse the whole terrific situation and tale with a gong-show sort of battle royale, smiles all around. I think vis-queen on the ground of course or someone brings a giant doughboy swimming pool. I think Todd Gordon would be willing to bring up that one his kids are always playing in when it's hot down there.
Even Richard and Mark would be finally redeemed by not their Maker but by none other than fall-down-go-boom physical humor instead---forgetting all about their habitual air loops over Jerusalem, finally in sync with The Big One. PTPP would fit right in, in the stir and get over-stimulated and need to breathe in a paper bag---how symbolic considering the constant use of paper bags on the FA and by the Aquarian climbers above the FA party that day; Ammon and Kait---not unfamiliar with "A Real Good Time", surely would participate too and bring their SA experience to the table plus it would be good to exercise Ammon's sore shoulder in the Lube---he has got to keep his Range of Motion you know. That's just the core group. Then there is the rest of us and we would be the ones paying our own way. But these fees would varying randomly like the camp fees Richard and Mark had to pay while they were luxuriating away in their "hounded down" phase at the start. We used to have Rangers vs Climbers Ball Games so we have historic antecedents here. Tami would do the scene boards beforehand so the camera people would not have to call for re-takes.
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Gene
climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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Think we could get Timmy O'Neill as Master of Ceremonies?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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I think it's an awesome idea. I'd make sure to be there.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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I'd be grinning like an opossum eating sh#t.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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Pete = advocate ≠ reporter. As DMT says, op-ed ≠ reporting
+1
And that Prod is the prodlem with having pptp "report" the story. It would be biased as was his prior attempt to scoop the SA w/ his "news" release. Piggy backing a biased "story" (and that's what it will be, a story, not a report) onto a factual TR is lame, coatheel grabbing, wannabe journalism.
Oh, and I'll donate some pies to the great event.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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Timmy---always up for further edgework--- would distribute the foam lightsabers and pies, while officiating from a home-made portaledge modeled after Richard's little bit of collapso-craziness he had suffered with for weeks on the FA.
In fact there would be a silent auction on stuff that Richard and Mark would donate from the FA; this sub-event would benefit the Yosemite Climbing Association in congress with the NPS to establish a long-awaited sewer lateral run up from North Valley Drive to Wendy and Captain Hook and with an initial modest offering of five strategically located comfort men's and women's facilities along the line, the first being obviously near Pine Line and the Nose start. The understanding here would be that the lateral was sized large enough to eventually sustain sublaterals up the various major lines. Jesse and Jake's work would be finally done.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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I'm looking forward to reading both articles...
Pete's about the history and all the other stuff and Ammon and Kait's about the actual ascent. I think both would end up complementing each other.
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