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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Oct 24, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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Mr. Ament,
Glad to hear that you are hanging in there.
"I am lucky the main force of the injury was the outside
of my thigh..."
If it means anything to you, I just had a conversation last night. I learned, when practicing, turn your body at a 45 degree angle to protect your vital organs. Best wishes for a full recovery!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
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My knee really hurts now, and it isn't anywhere near the
injury. I wonder what that's all about. Whenever I try to
stand up I get this ferocious pain in my knee. I wonder
if maybe some of the internal bleeding is pooling somewhere
in the knee or something...
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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Oct 24, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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From your injury description, you have trauma to your IT band which connects pelvis to knee. The gluteus maximus and TFL muscles are on the superior end of that band. You don't want to press into the inflamed site itself put you may get some knee relief working on those two muscles (if they are not inflamed). Try a tennis ball behind and a well supported thumb(by index finger) on the TFL in front. It is right below and slightly in (medial) from the bony projection of your hip.
Best to you.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 24, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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Are you sure it was Dakota SS?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Thanks, Tao, and yes it was Dakota.
So strange, really. We decided to keep the fall in the
movie, because it fits in the sequence of bouldering
in a meaningful enough way. Not that I am proud of that
dumb crash to the ground, but from the shot high above, looking down,
there is indeed a fracture line I couldn't see from below.
But in all the years I've climbed on Dakota Sandstone
I've never been that fooled, in terms of the strength
of the rock. I was on a kind of mix of the good strong
stuff and some less strong stuff, and they merged in
a deceptive way, so as to make me think it was all the
stronger stuff. Beware, though, as apparently certain
areas of Dakota do break off...
I was shocked the other day when I went up to Flagstaff
Mountain, and everyone had these huge crash pads. I wish
I'd had one at the moment of that fall, but in the old days
that was part of the game... to have enough control high up
to make things reasonably safe. Your ability was your
security. Certainly many problems are
lessened greatly if the danger is removed. I'm not the one
to say crash pads should not be used, but maybe at least
people can appreciate those problems that were done first
without the big cushions. To climb the Thimble, for example,
with a parking rail below and hard ground took quite the
mastery and control. With a top-rope or big pile of cushions
one could climb completely beyond their threshold of control
and get up, but might not appreciate the original feat
or have any conception of it actually...
Just some rambling, hazy thoughts. Pay me no mind.
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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Oct 25, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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I owe you one! (grin)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=906675&msg=906675#msg906675
I'd get bodywork done on it because all that "muscle splinting" after the initial injury sets everything up like glue. Drink lots of fluid. The IT band can adhere to the quads, etc. I think it is important to massage it daily as the inflamation goes away. Even very LIGHT touch while it is still inflamed is helpful simply for the increase of your awareness of the extent and character of the injury. Also, try to make use of your bi-lateral symmetry and compare it to the other leg. Check out Therecanes as they work really well on the IT band. Amazon usually has a good price on them - don't go for another brand as the Theracane is the only one designed to work on the IT's.
Another thing I've seen from a hard impact such as yours is that the pelvis will torque on itself via the SI joint and the disc like "joint: dead center on the pubic bone. In a sitting position I've found that if I place my forearm between my knees (elbow on inside of one knee, palm on inside of other knee) and squeeze in, it helped me to get the pelvis realigned. Saw this make a dramatic difference for a friend who had crashed a motorcycle and bruised his thigh completely around. He could barely stand and after one press, and a pop, he was walking with ease.
I've torn up and extensively bruised muscle in my calf. Personally, I gained a lot of relief, early on, by an acupuncture technique called Seven Star. Really stimulates flow at the site. In my case I had a laceration coupled with the huge bruise, so I needed to break up scar tissue as well.
I guess my point is that a lot of body structures go into overdrive after an injury like yours and go into stabilization mode. Signaling them (by even becoming aware of them) really helps your whole system to balance up and the actual injury site to heal.
T
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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Thanks, that massage stuff makes a lot of sense. It's so sore,
though, the slightest touch is almost unbearable. What is that
stuff you recommended? An herb?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 25, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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Now you're talking!
Hey, don't blame Dakota!
Hang in there Pat (missed you at Kyle's memorial).
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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I'm sorry I couldn't be at Kyle's memorial.
Only that I can't move much, but I don't even think
I heard about it. A great lad, a great spirit,
a great climber.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2009 - 07:34am PT
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Up all night again. Can't get a wink with this
pain. I mean, I know I sound like a crybaby, but
it's not discomfort. This is ripping, fierce pain.
I have pain pills, and they don't even touch this.
The strange location of the pain now is
mostly all around the area within two
to three inches above my knee -- not even
near the actual smashed area (which is on the
upper right side of thigh). I'm going to try to
ice it, see if that does anything.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Oct 27, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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How about another update?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Hi, Jan,
Well, no sleep last night either. No position
I can get into that isn't terrible. So I just
clench my teeth, tighten my jaw, and suffer. No
measurable change since the beginning.
Pat
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 27, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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hey there pat, say.... oh my.... :(
well, we are still rooting for you and you are not forgotten...
say, send your addresss to my email, please... :)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 04:33am PT
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I am grateful for the years of karate training,
as otherwise I would be toast. All those special
trainings where we had to suffer for days strengthened
my mind and taught me how to get through. But even
that isn't quite enough, except that I know there
are people who have worse situations than mine and
suffer with something that won't go away.
I have been experiencing very short respites from the
pain this evening, as though something opens up, a
blood vessel, or pressure or some pain nerve is lessened,
or something, but then it returns again, sigh. This is
hopeful, though. I went right to sleep the first time
it happened but woke up to the jarring return of pain
about forty-five minutes later. This has happened twice.
Now I just got up out of bed at two-thirty, because
sometimes it seems it hurts more when I am horizontal
or even when the leg is elevated. One would think it would
be opposite.
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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Oct 28, 2009 - 10:46am PT
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Sorry to hear that you continue to have such extreme pain. There is some hope, as you note, with at least some windows of relief. Hopefully you have turned the corner.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 28, 2009 - 10:53am PT
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Years ago I did time in a wheelchair after getting hit by rockfall in a place where "everyone knows there is no rockfall".
Don't worry Pat, you'll get past it.
Do what I did, get a Bangkok special.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 28, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Pat, regardless of what the tech said, have you gotten the doctor's reading of the ultrasound yet? If not you should call their office immediately! What you describe sounds nearly exactly like the blood clot I recently had. It is writhing, excruciating pain. Be very careful and find out right away. I found out first hand, or leg as the case was, that clots are NOT to be taken lightly. Please take care of yourself you mean a lot to us.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 28, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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there is a controversial medication that I believe you are familiar with from deep in your youth, that inhibits clotting. As a a greenie I think you can get a license for it, though I think you have to go to California to obtain any, legally.
That was tongue in cheek, but this really might be a rare legitimate reason for this!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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If this doesn't change tomorrow, I'm going to the doctor.
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