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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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I step left around the corner from the flake,then,as you say a couple cams and two bolts to the top.Oddly,this part seems about 5.8 to me,but perhaps I move back and forth a bit more than other folks.I finish just to the right of the last bolt.Dunno,I know NEClimbs lists the crux as up there.
I actually have the most difficulty getting over the little overhang on the first pitch,which at 5.9+ is the easiest rated.Covered in dirt and pine needles it can be exciting to reach the belay there.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Jacobs ladder is a great route, I took a fall on the first pitch )pictured in photo #1 cuase of seepage a the overlap. We climbed most of wonder wall yesterday, that has some brillant climbing. No pics though.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Chiloe: Here's a few pics from Mt. Oscar, hope to get better ones the next time we're there. It's mostly slab and face climbing with a few cracks thrown in, 5.7 to 5.11 routes, mostly 1 pitch. Rock is coarse granite, really sweet!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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The latest in ropes, 7.7mm and too bright to photograph.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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The route Tradchicky is rapping is a great 5.8 on gear.The face in the second picture sports two fine 5.9's,and then a classic 5.7 on the left edge.The second pitch of the seven follows a perfect crack for fifty feet up a slab.
Our ropes seem to have picked up some color as well.....wedding gifts from pcousar and his wife !
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Pate, I'll look up my guidebooks tonight. I've always done Wavelength by climbing two
pitches up the Slabs Direct (5.7) to a belay in the arch, then over the arch and step left to
the Wavelength dike. Above that you can finish on Sliding Board (recommended, if time
allows) or rap with 2 ropes.
My Wavelength pics on page 1 are looking down the Wavelength dike pitch (shaded) and,
a bit earlier that day, the sunny 2nd pitch of Slabs Direct.
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MH2
climber
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Peter Maysho:
I am sorry that your efforts on Whitehorse faded into obscurity. But my one afternoon on that great cliff in 1979 was spent with Ed Webster, so our climb was fricken famous. There were lecture tours, slideshows, photos of him, by him, (the same shots!) the route was uprated, downrated, quality debated, and people came from hither and yon to repeat the thing I am sure. I bet Chiloe has a poster of it on his office wall!
This is why we shy people seldom put up climbs.
Just kidding, of course, but I love the inspired overdrive of the above quote.
Weather looks good, too, from monsoon country, here.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Almost unbelieveably,the crux pitch of Wavelength......has protection,like ample protection.I don't know why you'd hop the arch off Standard,like Chiloe said,first two of direct is the norm,plus you can avoid the conga on Standard.
Other nice pitches around there are The Booklet at 5.9,and the upper 5.10 pitch of Interloper at 5.10,both have pretty good gear.Here's Tradchick making Wavelength look easy with one hand tied behind her back !!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
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Maysho:
But my one afternoon on that great cliff in 1979 was spent with Ed Webster, so our climb was fricken famous. There were lecture tours, slideshows, photos of him, by him, (the same shots!) the route was uprated, downrated, quality debated, and people came from hither and yon to repeat the thing I am sure. I bet Chiloe has a poster of it on his office wall!
I think Tomcat was right, upthread. Does this sound like your lost route?
"South Buttress Direct, III 5.11b R
...
5. The Road Cut pitch is the climb's crux. Climb up blocky, angular rock to a 15-foot headwall split by a thin crack (5.11b R). Mantle onto a ledge, then face climb past a couple of bolts to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor.
...
The Road Cut pitch ... was free climbed in June, 1979, by Ed Webster & Peter Mayfield."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
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Pretty cool to be climbing Inferno with a big smile at age 8.
For those who don't know the route, it's a classic 4-pitch 5.8 or 5.9, with sustained
face climbing on the first pitch and two vertical crack pitches higher.
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Jim E
climber
away
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HA!
She resorted to classic Gaston crack climbing style.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 11:01pm PT
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View from the South Buttress today:
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 23, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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hey there chiloe... say, and jim E too, and all...
say, thanks for the share... not sure if saw or heard of place/post before...
god bless... :)
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leinosaur
Trad climber
burns flat, ok
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Nov 23, 2009 - 02:57am PT
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Schweetness - yet to climb up there but my sister's a NH resident again with no plans to leave, so I know it's just over the horizon . . . slabbing it up to the steeper stuff sounds mighty familiar to an Okie!
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Nov 23, 2009 - 07:13am PT
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Tradchick and I had this place entirely to ourselves....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 09:39am PT
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Nice day for a soar! What did you guys do up there?
Jim E, emac and I climbed Fiddler on the Roof. Beautiful weather, cool but not cold.
Jim starts out with P1 of Hotter Than Hell:
For P2, emac found a spicier variation (avoiding most of those big shiny bolts) to
Cold Day in Hell:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 09:45am PT
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Looking up at P3, I realized it was too late to change my place in the rotation.
Jim shot the picture below.
Holds thin out as you move higher on P3. That light-gray rock felt compact as porcelain.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 09:55am PT
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Jim used power and a foot-cam to pull the namesake roof on P4:
Once you get above the roof, handholds become scarce.
But the views are grand. That's when the glider came by.
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