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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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No fair, that guy's arms are longer than my entire body!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I'm sure I wouldn't have a snowballs chance in hell of getting up it free but it would be fun to get on it simply to plug some cams in it!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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yup Mark - I've thought the same thing (about me, not you) for a long time. Be pretty fun just to be up there.
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Gary
climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
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Mindboggling!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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I remember the traverse was impossible to stitch with the old nuts and so I had to crank up into the crack and with my fatty hands buttering out, wiggle a hex into that one incher with my feet pasted on that ramp. I barely got the rope clipped in and pitched off. Ron Fawcett went back up and ran the rope like 20 feet off that hex, unable to stop, and I was thinking if he rips, which looked eminent, he's going the distance. For someone with big hands like me that crack was just plain awful. And painful, too. Free soloing Phoenix is a remarkable thing, so my hat's off to Alex.
JL
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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John I'd give you a .13b or c rating on that thing with your meatpaws!
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Classic ! Largo and mark need to get on it NOW
Come on Mark- you still got those little NH hands
and largo can use PAW jams
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Fluid
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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A bit off-topic, but watching the video embedded above, at 25:20 on Sentinel Alex passes the fixed camera placed just above a good handhold. He slaps the handhold almost sarcastically with an odd facial expression, while the commentator makes inane statements about hanging from 4 fingers (while his feet are well-planted). Was this a bit of an FU moment for Alex?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 30, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
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Bump. Mark's story at the beginning of this thread is so cool.
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atgoett
Trad climber
oklahoma city, ok
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Jun 17, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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bump
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rnevius
Trad climber
The Range of Light
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Phoenix BUMP.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I stabbed at the crack, missed and my fingers drug back to here. I stabbed again and did it.
That is quite a photo, it really captures "the struggle".
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Notice Ray's pinned out corner. We thought it was pretty gross when we got there and saw what he had done. It could have been stellar, but a dickhead f*#ked it up.
Even Honnold's solo is ruined IMO.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Just read along with Tales.
I'm psyched to get back on the stone soon.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Feb 25, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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BBST
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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Jardine hang-dogged 100 days on it before doing it ..... Excerpts from Ray Jardine's Climbing Log:
 4/9/77 - Phoenix - Ray Jardine finds it, cleans it, and works on it for 4 days (alternating days on Owl Roof).
4/29/77 - Phoenix led with 3 rests
3 more days of work on Phoenix
5/9/77 - led Phoenix free from upper belay - FA Ray Jardine
5/13/77 - cleaned lower Phoenix [not in Log: i.e. pin scarred it to create finger locks, and left fixed pins in for pro]
5 days of work on "Phoenix II"
5/20/77 - led "Phoenix II" free - FA Ray Jardine, John Lakey
So I count 9 climbing days to Phoenix (I), and 15 days to Phoenix II.
Still pretty unusual at that time, to keep going back to the same climb day after day.
The persistence paid off, though!
Prior to Phoenix in 1977:
19 days climbing on Separate Reality (led free with fixed pro and led free without fixed pro)
13 days climbing on Owl Roof (John Lakey led it free first, then Ray)
In later years, the Log shows Ray attempted the Phoenix 11 more times, but never led it free again.
Good training, though. It had to be a very hard size for his fingers/hands.
4 days after the FA of Phoenix II, Ray followed Bill Price on it.
http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Climbing/climbing_log/index.htm
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 07:50am PT
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It could have been stellar, but a dickhead f*#ked it up.
Even Honnold's solo is ruined IMO.
Have you ever even tried it?
I bet you haven't.
Honnold's free solo of the Phoenix is out of this world and nothing got ruined.
You have no idea how technical this crack climb is even with the pin job.
Ray verbally told me it took him 100 days to do it.
So if his written log is different than his verbal account ..... who knows what happened?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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That traverse section looks really tough, seeing Hidetaka Suzuki with his feet cut loose.
And Mark Hudon injuring his shoulder there.
Even Alex Honnold in the video changed the direction he put his hand in
at the end of the traverse. That's getting scary, if it wasn't already....
Ray verbally told me it took him 100 days to do it.
So if his written log is different than his verbal account ..... who knows what happened? Maybe he meant 100 tries?
That could happen if he averaged 6.5 tries per day x 15 days.
or maybe:
He had been climbing in the Valley that year for about 94 days (2/15-5/20).
Maybe that is where the 100 days came from.
But he was climbing on other routes, some days were bouldering, etc.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 28, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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BBST SATURDAY NIGHT BUMPPO ! !! !!
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