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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Bump with bolts...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 18, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Hey, adrian korosec,
nice photos.
the funny thing is, on the first ascent that traverse had no bolts. Not even the belay. I believe they used the bottom of their fixed rope as an anchor.
David Brower (who led that pitch) placed a single piton for protection about 60-80 feet across the traverse. Not bad for 1939, in whatever footwear (tennis shoes?) they had back then.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jan 18, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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"I was in the area once with Richard Harrison (who went back later and bagged it - free solo I believe), but we did other stuff instead. That one just got away from me."
I would love to hear how Richard free soloed Shiprock.
Richard, you out there....John?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 19, 2013 - 02:24am PT
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Given the climbing ban, how is it that people are still climibng Shiprock?
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 19, 2013 - 08:15am PT
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i drove through new mexico last fall--it only took one enchilada in gallup to remind me how much i love the place.
i had an interesting adventure driving through jemez pueblo towards los alamos, then being diverted by a road block to a forest service jeep trail down through cochiti mesa, which i recognized as the scene of backcountry skulduggery in tony hillerman novels. i followed a forest ranger outa there. it took some discussion before we both decided to risk the stream crossing.
i also came across another "ship" rock--battleship rock--anyone climbed that one?
http://www.scenicusa.net/images/SP10%20Battleship%20Rock%20PD.jpg
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 19, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Funny.. I'm right in the middle of reading Cadillac Desert - the American West and it's Disappearing Water (a must read BTW) and I last night I got to the chapter about David Brower. His ascent of Shiprock is briefly mentioned just before they launch into his extensive conservation efforts.
Just an odd coincidence two Shiprock threads and mention of David were on the front page this morning.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 19, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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Given the climbing ban, how is it that people are still climibng Shiprock?
The climbing ban is a complex subject.
The Tribe announced a ban on climbing in 1970. Yet never drew up laws to back this up. So, it's complicated.
Currently there's a small but enthusiastic group of Navajos who climb. They have a Facebook "group" page. Members have climbed on the rez, proudly, some members have climbed Shiprock.
This makes it even more complicated. They wonder if they will get arrested at some point. Even locals can't get an official answer about the exact legal status of climbing.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 19, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 22, 2013 - 09:27am PT
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Another bump for history
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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...Yet never drew up laws to back this up...
Back it up? Back it up?
Isn't it enough that the landowners said "No?"
So you think that you have the right to ignore the landowners just because they "never drew up laws" to back it up?
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Alexander Pina
Big Wall climber
Arizona
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Feb 21, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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This letter is Bull shit! i live here on the REZ and i am a proud member of the Navajo tribe. yes some of these areas are concider sacred sites but alot (MOST) are just some badass formations that should have no restrictions to climb. Just be respectful which most of us are!!
CHeck out ..Dine' Coalitions of Climbers on FB..
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 21, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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Alexander, thank you! Now we have someone with some street cred! But you
sound as mystified about the ban as anyone. With all due respect your Nation's
government is like any other - a trifle wrapped up in bureaucracy these days and,
with far greater problems to be dealt with, the climbing issue is far down the list.
Would I be correct to assume that when you speak of acting with respect
that the people who live nearest to a formation are less likely to call
the Tribal Police if we don't act like rock climbers often act?
And I just want to know if any of you guys have climbed Spider Rock? I'm
fine with that being banned to the rest of us but I sincerely hope some of
you get to enjoy its sacredness.
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Alexander Pina
Big Wall climber
Arizona
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Feb 21, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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No i don't know of anyone but the LEGENDS that have had the chance to climb Spider Rock. Canyon De Chelly is a National Park now and access to that area of the canyon is restricted and you need a guide just to be there. Also Spider Rock is a sacred site with interesting history.
As far as the so called ban on climbing, I do not agree so you if you do want to climb and minimize any potential trouble its best to know a Navajo.
If you are serious about climbing on the REZ...dineclimbers@hotmail.com
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Nilepoc
Big Wall climber
Tx
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Feb 21, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
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When I did it in 2004 I got "permission" from the grazing rights holder. Cameron Burns did the same when he put up routes on the tower in the 90's and 00's.
We had no hassles and the next day the Navajos I was working with in the hospital there congratulated me and asked for the tale. It was a great climb and I hope to do it again in the future.
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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Feb 21, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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Yeah, nilepoc (whoever you are). Just gotta be friendly. Not enough of that in the world.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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One of my best memories was to climb Shiprock with Royal Robbins
and his wife Liz, in the early fall of 1964, when we were on a
little tour of the southwest desert. We started late, went slow,
and got to the top just as the sun got really beautiful at the
west edge of the earth. We climbed and rappeled down in dark,
with stars and wind. Royal was very somber and said virtually nothing.
At every belay spot, though, Liz and I had memorable conversation,
our whispers in the still dark. Finally we had a steak dinner at
about midnight in the quiet black desert night. What
a great adventure for a 17 year old. The climb wasn't difficult,
by any standard, though the Horn had one or two 5.9 moves,
as I recall, nothing too taxing. It's just wonderful, though,
to be up, away from the world, on that big eerie mass of stone....
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 16, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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The Shiprock register reconstruction, made by Ray Jacquot. This is from the legal years.
Based on earlier work by Ernie Anderson. A hardcopy (these scans are from the hardcopy) is at the AAC library in Golden.
Thanks to Beth Heller, who made me a copy of the document. Also thanks to The American Alpine Cub Library, who house the register.
•••• Click in any image for bigger, easier-to-read version ••••
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
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Bump for Crusher who is out getting restless with the Natives for a change...
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