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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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uhhhhhggggg! Decided to stay in the states... uhhhgggggg! This thread is torture!
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ggggg!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:54am PT
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Fontainebleau - some of the excellent traverses (Vertical nov 1995)
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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^^^ ha, and five of them at Rocher Canon, nice and close to the Bois-le Roi train station.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
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Something for evertbody. That's one of the great things in Bleau. Bouldering in Bleau can be just as difficult as you'd like it to be, and so many circuits throughout the forest are dedicated to beginners, or there are even those especially put up for small children.
Globally speaking, bouldering can be frustrating if you're not... say at least at Fb 6a level, but in Bleau, you'll find everything - harder stuff or easier problems.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 11, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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Rocher Canon is great. It really is. Many probs of all difficulties. Easy, intermediate and hard circuits. Cool landings. And the closeness to the Bois-le-Roi train station makes it possible to enjoy half-day outings there, starting from Paris. I'd often go there early in the morning, enjoying the forest waking up... birds, squirrels, wild boars, deer.
It can take one just one hour from the departure from Gare de Lyon (Paris) to Rocher Canon. Trains to and fro - like every hour. And you can even take a bike along on the train (bike rentals around Gare de Lyon).
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poli
climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 12, 2013 - 04:31am PT
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for me the best spot in Font was Cuvier or something like that. It's just beside the road, with millions of boulders, nice scenery and excellent climbing :)
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Yes, I guess Cuvier rules in Bleau (Bas-Cuvier + Rempart). There you'll find everything.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 12, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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Just wondering: Do they still use rosin at 'bleau? If you don't use it, then you must to do some of the problems? They won't go without it?
Gosh, this place looks so much like Castle Rock State Park I almost want to say I know which problems they're doing . . .
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 12, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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I refused to use pof when I was there. It CLEARLY alters the texture of the rock. It fills in all the pore spaces with resin, which will NOT come off without the use of a solvent other than water. The result is a smooth, glassy surface with a much lower frictional coefficient. The only way to stick is to use more pof.
Magnesium carbonate (gym chalk) washes off with water and more importantly is EASILY brushed off to regain the original texture... Bleau is all about texture.
My understanding is that the locals don't like chalk because it is "ugly." Which is apparently why they saw fit to scribble "STOP MAGNESIA" in red marker or lipstick or something at the base of Toit de Cul de Chien and other classic problems last time I was there.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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^^^ Nice share!
I've used pof (resin) and still would, but sparingly, mostly to help out with sole adhérence on polished smears. Often apply it on the rubber and 'rub' it in till it squeaks.
I'll be using magnesia on limestone - just can't get used to it on Bleau sandstone.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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"Will I go to jail if I use Pof?
Not a French jail. This is another controversial and highly emotional topic and it's hard to have a rational discussion without some nationalism creeping in on both sides of the debate. Briefly, pof is dried pine tree resin that French Font climbers wrap up in cloth and smack the rock with to increase adherence. Some French climbers use it instead of chalk - usually older ones; most use both now.
CON: it's cheating; it makes the holds polished and glassy; you need more pof once a hold has been poffed, creating a vicious cycle; it makes the holds black and look like crap. Old French guys use it who climb harder than me. If you use it outside Font you risk bodily harm.
PRO: it's natural; isn't as visible as chalk; pof may prevent the surface erosion of the sandstone "skin" above the crumblier sandstone underneath; its use is recommended over chalk by COSIROC, the local climbing governing body, its use is recommended over chalk by bleau.info website; it annoys the British."
From: ukclimbing
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