Discussion Topic |
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Gene
climber
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Walleye,
Is that Via Sin Agua - FA 1978 or another line?
GM
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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Aqua Vulva?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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From a climbing punter who has a big interest in Yos history: thanks Ed! Wish I could snap my fingers and have a book of write-ups on all of those FA's, most of which I've only heard of in passing, if at all.
As one example:
Dark Star 5.10 A5 VI FA 1999 Jim Bridwell Giovani Groaz
Where/what the hell is this? Who amongst us wouldn't pay good dough to be able to read the lurid details of these ascents.
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jstan
climber
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Sine qua non.
My best route.
Now that I have done it, it can never be repeated.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thanks for the Pacemaker clarification Lars,
Apologies to Clance for the misreportage; I'm no historian, even if/when I was there, haha. Now I recall it was Corbett who I chatted with as we made our way across Mammoth Terrace. (They were perhaps entertaining only moderate drinking, I embelish hehe.) I was more than likely around when Clance did the second ascent of Pacemaker and clearly blurred the lines with my memory of the different teams. "Weenis" as we refer to, was not Pete (if you mean Chesko), but a guy named Shawn.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Lars,
Maybe Chuck would post up a story about the second ascent of Pacemaker? Sounds like a good one. He's posted here before right?
This thread could use more first hand reportage, as Ed noted. As I think about it, it seems we don't get that much first person tell from early ascents of wall routes done back then.
Cheers,
Roy
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Roy-
Clance actually got paid to write up the second ascent of Pacemaker in an issue of Climbing magazine. I'm sure he has it framed, I'll find out what issue.
The Weenis I was referring to was Pete[r] Weenis Chesko [sp?] who I understand is a really fine jeweler now. Just goes to show that you really can make diamonds out of coal.
Best
lars
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes,
Chesko & I climbed V Notch in the Palisades together way back when. He posted here for a while, so we emailed and caught up a bit.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Mussy,
Tell us a story won't you?
I know you talked about Bad Sign a while back; was that a full blown TR you can link us to?
(early, ...er, 2nd ascent maybe?)
Hook us up man!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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An update on the aid climbs.
I went back and made the database more consistent in reporting the "FA rating" separate from the "modern rating" (the one that shows up in the most recent guide books) and the "FFA rating." Most of these I extracted from Roper's 1971 guide. However, there are still climbs there that have the "FFA rating" only, and I suspect there was no formal YDS rating of some of these climbs, being done in the time before the uniform ratings were applied. There aren't many of them, though, about 54 climbs, 12% of all documented "Aid Climbs."
I haven't released the newest spread sheet yet (I'll post when I get it ready), I've corrected a few names, etc, and I've added references to the American Alpine Journal (AAJ) as I searched for information on poorly reported climbs (see list below). Some of you could actually help with dates, etc... but I understand memory lapse at old age...
Included here, the new table of frequency of "Graded" aid climbs by 5 year period. And a plot that shows how this is build up.
Not an elegant table, but STForum doesn't allow for horizontal spacing formats (e.g. tabs):
year, all, all "Graded", VI, V, IV, I,II,III, III, II, I
up to 1935, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1936 to 1940, 3, 3, 0, 0, 0, 3, 0, 1, 2
1941 to 1945, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 0, 0
1946 to 1950, 10, 8, 0, 1, 1, 6, 3, 1, 2
1951 to1955, 12, 12, 0, 1, 3, 8, 4, 3, 1
1956 to 1960, 42, 35, 3, 5, 8, 19, 11, 6, 2
1961 to 1965, 81, 72, 8, 14, 15, 35, 14, 16, 5
1966 to 1970, 49, 44, 7, 16, 6, 15, 9, 6, 0
1971 to 1975, 33, 25, 19, 5, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0
1976 to 1980, 27, 20, 19, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1981 to 1985, 42, 31, 22, 9, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1986 to 1990, 50, 44, 36, 8, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1991 to 1995, 25, 24, 20, 4, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1996 to 2000, 25, 25, 20, 3, 1, 1, 1, 0, 0
2001 to 2005, 11, 11, 9, 2, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
Of 412 aid climbs, 355 have "Grades", here's a simple table:
all; 413
all "Graded;" 355
VI; 163
V; 69
IV; 35
I, II, III, 88
III; 43
II; 33
I; 12
Not much has changed on the plot, more information (maybe too much) but probably a better time distributed representation. The major conclusions are the same.
climbs used in this accounting:
Sunnyside Bench, Waterfall Route 5.7 A3 FA 1935 Dave Brower William Van Voorhis
Grizzly Peak, South Gully 5.5 A1 II FA 1938 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Split Pinnacle, Regular Route 5.7 A2 I FA 1938 Jack Reigelhuth Raffi Bedayan Dick Leonard Muir Dawson
Kat Pinnacle via Tyrolean Traverse 5.7 A1 I FA 1940 Devitt Allen Torcom Bedayan Robin Hansen
West Arrowhead Chimney 5.7 A3 III FA 1941 Torcom Bedayan Fritz Lippmann
Lost Arrow Tip 5.8 C2 FA 1946 Fritz Lippmann Jack Arnold Anton Nelson Robin Hansen FFA 5.12b 1984 Dave Schultz
Salathe Route 5.7 A3 IV FA 1946 John Salathe Anton Nelson FFA 5.10b R 1964 Frank Sachere Bob Kamps Andy Lichtman
Lost Arrow Chimney 5.8 A3 V FA 1947 John Salathe Anton Nelson FFA 5.10a 1964 Chuck Pratt Frank Sacherer
Higher Cathedral Spire, Steck Route 5.9 A1 FA 1948 Allen Steck Fletcher Hoyt Willima Hoyt
Rixon's Pinnacle, South Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1948 Chuck Wilts Ellen Wilts FFA 5.11d 1974 Tobin Sorenson John Bachar
Sentinel Rock, Northeast Bowl 5.8 A1 III FA 1948 John Salathe Anton Nelson
Harris' Hangover 5.7 A3 II FA 1949 Oscar Cook Bill Dunmire Bob Swift
Penny Pinnacle; West Face 5.4 A1 I FA 1950
Phantom Pinnacle, Outside Face 5.9 A3 III FA 1950 Bill Dunmire Bob Swift FFA 5.10d 1957 Rich Calderwood Mike Borghoff
Pulpit Rock, from the Notch 5.7 A1 I FA 1950 FFA 5.10 1960 Royal Robbins
Dinner Ledge 5.6 A2 I FA 1952 Don Goodrich Dave Dows FFA 5.10a 1966 John Hudson Chris Fredricks
Eagle Peak - Southeast Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1952 John Lindberg Ron Hayes
El Cap Tree, Regular Route 5.6 A2 III FA 1952 Allen Steck Will Siri Bill Dunmire Bob Swift
Yosemite Point Buttress, Direct Route 5.8 A2 IV FA 1952 Allen Steck Bob Swift FFA 5.9 1964 Frank Sacherer Don Telshaw
El Capitan, East Buttress 5.7 A2 IV FA 1953 Allen Steck Will Siri Willi Unsoeld Bill Long FFA 5.10b 1964 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed
John's Other Chimney 5.4 A1 II FA 1953 John Ohrenschall Marry Ann Corthell
El Capitan, East Ledge Traverse 5.6 A1 II FA 1954 Allen Steck Bill Dunmire Jim Wilson
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress 5.9 A1 IV FA 1954 Warren Harding Jack Davis Bob Swift FFA 5.10c 1965 Frank Sacherer Ed Leeper
Middle Cathedral Rock, North Buttress 5.7 A2 V FA 1954 Warren Harding Frank Tarver Craig Holden John Whitmer FFA 5.10a 1964 Frank Sacherer Jim Bridwell
Middle Cathedral Rock, North Face Traverse 5.8 A3 III FA 1954 Dick Long George Mandatory Jack Davis Bob Skinner
Thirsty Spire A2 II FA 1954 Dick Long Bob Skinner FFA 5.11a 1989 Clint Cummins Joel Ager
Obscurity Traverse 5.6 A2 III FA 1955 Bill Loughman Don Goodrich
East Arrowhead Chimney (Nagasaki My Love) 5.8 A2 III FA 1956 Mark Powell Warren Harding FFA 5.10d 1988 Elliot Robinson Steve Annecone
Kat Pinnacle, Northwest Corner 5.7 A2 FA 1956 Mark Powell Don Wilson
Liberty Cap, South Face 5.8 A3 IV FA 1956 Mark Powell Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Lower Cathedral Rock, East Buttress 5.8 A3 IV FA 1956 Mark Powell Jerry Gallwas Don Wilson FFA 5.10c 1965 Steve Thompson Chris Fredricks
Nagasaki My Love (East Arrowhead Chimney) 5.8 A2 III FA 1956 Mark Powell Warren Harding FFA 5.10d 1988 Elliot Robinson Steve Annecone
Ahwiyah Point Northwest Buttress 5.8 A2 III FA 1957 Wayne Merry Warren Harding
Bear Rock, Bolt Route 5.3 A1 I FA 1957 George Sessions Mike Schuler Wayne Simpson Noel Shirley
Bridalveil East 5.8 A2 III FA 1957 Mark Powell Warren Harding FFA 5.10c 1964 Frank Sacherer John Morton
East Arrowhead Buttress, Overhang Route 5.8 A2 III FA 1957 Mark Powell Wayne Merry
Half Dome, Regular Northwest Face 5.9 C1 VI FA 1957 Royal Robbins Jerry Gallwas Mike Sherrick FFA 5.12 1976 Jim Erickson Art Higbee
Liberty Cap, Southern Buttress 5.7 A3 FA 1957 Mike Loughman Dick Armstrong
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Buttress 5.8 A4 V FA 1957 Mark Powell Bill Feuerer
Lower Watkins Pinnacle A3 II FA 1957 Mark Powell Herb Swedlund Wally Reed George Sessions Merle Alley
Powell-Reed 5.7 A3 IV FA 1957 Mark Powell Wally Reed FFA 5.10c 1964 Bob Kamps Tom Higgins
El Capitan, East Ledges, East Side 5.5 A3 II FA 1958 Henry Kendall Gerry Czamanske
Lower Brother, Southeast Face 5.8 A1 III FA 1958 Wally Reed Charles Raymond
Lower Cathedral Rock, Roof, The 5.7 A3 II FA 1958 Tom Frost Henry Kendall
Nose, The 5.9 C2 VI FA 1958 Warren Harding Wayne Merry George Whitmore FFA 5.13b 1993 Lynn Hill
Penny-Nickle Arete 5.7 A2 III FA 1958 Chuck Pratt George Sessions Krehe Ritter
Slack, The, Center Route 5.8 A1 III FA 1958 Charlie Raymond Wally Reed FFA 5.10d 1967 Pat Ament Larry Dalke
Split Pinnacle, East Arete 5.8 A1+ FA 1958 Chuck Pratt Krehe Ritter FFA 5.10c
Ahwahnee Buttress 5.8 A2 IV FA 1959 George Sessions George Whitmore Jerry Dixon Merle Alley FFA 5.10d 1989 Dave Sessions Tucker Tech
Beverly's Tower 5.4 A1 I FA 1959 Gerry Czamanske Waren Harding FFA 5.10a 1973 Roger Breedlove Alan Bard
Higher Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress 5.8 A2 IV FA 1959 Dick Long Ray D'Arcy Terry Tarver FFA 5.9 1964 Frank Sacherer Jeff Dozier
Lower Yosemite Falls, West Side 5.5 A3 II FA 1959 Herb Swedlund Errol Bohannon
Merry Old Ledge 5.9 A3 IV FA 1959 Warren Harding Gerry Czamanske
Middle Cathedral Rock, North Face 5.9 A4 V FA 1959 Chuck Pratt Bob Kamps Steve Roper
Rixon's Pinnacle, West Face 5.7 A3 III FA 1959 Tom Frost Bill Feuerer FFA 5.10c 1971 Pat Ament
Rostrum, The, West Base Route 5.8 A3 IV FA 1959 Gerry Czmanske Larry Wood FFA 5.10c 1960 Chuck Pratt John Fiske
Washington Column, East Face (Astroman) 5.9 A3 V FA 1959 Warren Harding Glen Denny Chuck Pratt FFA 5.11c 1975 John Bachar John Long Ron Kauk
Washington Column, East Face Route 5.10 A2 V FA 1959 Warren Harding Glen Denny Chuck Pratt
Arches Direct 5.8 A4 VI FA 1960 Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Camp 4 Terror 5.8 A4 V FA 1960 Bob Kamps Dave Rearick
Camp 4 Tree (Dynamo Hum) 5.5 A1 II FA 1960 Mort Hempel Bob Kamps FFA 1975 Tobin Sorenson John Long
Fifi Buttress 5.8 A3 III FA 1960 Dick McCracken Steve Roper
Inconsolable Buttress, The 5.7 A3 III FA 1960 Mark Powell Beverly Powell Dave Rearick
Kat Pinnacle, Southwest Corner 5.7 A3+ FA 1960 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost
Liberty Cap, West Corner 5.8 A2 FA 1960 Dick McCracken Steve Roper
Mt. Broderick, South Face 5.8 A3 IV FA 1960 Bob Kamps Joe Fitschen Chuck Pratt
Nevada Falls, Left Side 5.6 A4 II FA 1960 Royal Robbins Lin Ephraim
Pulpit Rock, East Face 5.7 A2 FA 1960 Dave Rearick Tom Frost FFA 5.10c 1986 Don Reid Ken Yager
Sentinel Rock, West Face 5.12b A0 FA 1960 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost
Aid Route 5.6 A3 II FA 1961 Joe Oliger Steve Roper FFA 5.11b 1967 Lloyd Price
Black Wall 5.9 A1 III FA 1961 Glen Denny Al McDonald
El Cap Tree Direct 5.9 A4 IV FA 1961 Glen Denny Frank Sacherer
El Capitan, East Ledges, West Side 5.6 A2 II FA 1961 Henry Kendall Bill Pope
Fin, The 5.7 A2 II FA 1961 Les Wilson Glen Denny FFA 5.11c 1974 John Long Jay WIlson
Half Dome, North Ridge 5.9 A2 III FA 1961 Chuck Wilts Royal Robbins FFA 5.10d R 1989 Walt Shipley John Harpole
Higher Cathedral Spire, North Couloir 5.8 A3 IV FA 1961 Dick Long Jim Wilson Ray D'Arcy Wally Reed
Higher Cathedral Spire, Northwest Face 5.8 A3 V FA 1961 Tom Frost Royal Robbins
Koko Ledge, Left 5.7 A1 I FA 1961 Bill Amborn Bob Klose FFA 5.10a 1968 Kevin Bein
Leaning Tower, West Face 5.7 C2F V FA 1961 Warren Harding Glen Denny Al Macdonald
Little John, Center 5.10d A3- FA 1961 Tom Frost Harry Daley
Lunch Ledge Direct (Space Case) 5.8 A4 IV FA 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed FFA 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Nevada Falls, Center Route 5.5 A2 II FA 1961 Bill Amborn Tom Naylor Steve Roper
Salathe Wall 5.9 C2 VI FA 1961 Royal Robbins Chuck Pratt Tom Frost FFA 5.13b 1988 Todd Skinner Paul Piana
Serenity Crack 5.7 A2 II FA 1961 Glen Denny Les Wilson FFA 5.10d 1967 Tom Higgins Chris Jones
Slab Happy Pinnacle, Center 5.9 A4 III FA 1961 Royal Robbins Tom Frost Harry Daley FFA 5.10d 1974 Vern Clevenger George Meyers Tom Carter
Space Case (Lunch Ledge Direct) 5.8 A4 IV FA 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed FFA 5.10c 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Swan Slab 5.6 A3 II FA 1961 Joe Oliger Steve Roper
Swan Slab Aid Route 5.6 A3 II FA 1961 Joe Oliger Steve Roper FFA 5.11a 1967 Loyd Price
West Corner 5.8 A3 III FA 1961 Bob Kamps Dave Rearick
Bear Rock, Southeast Face 5.4 A4 I FA 1962 Jim Harper Tony Qamar
Bishop's Balcony 5.5 A3 FA 1962 Frank Sacherer Gary Colliver
Chockstone Chimney 5.6 A2 IV FA 1962 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehrenfeucht Leif Patterson FFA 5.9 1976 Ray Jardine Mark Moore
Chouinard-Herbert 5.8 A2 V FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert FFA 5.11c 1976 John Long Pete Minks Eric Erickson
Delectable Pinnacle, Center Route 5.3 A3 I FA 1962 Art Gran Eric Beck FFA 5.11c R 1975 Dale Bard
Dihedral Wall 5.9 A3+ VI FA 1962 Ed Cooper Jim Baldwin Glen Denny
Diving Board - Sunshine Buttress 5.8 A1 III FA 1962 Dick Long Al Macdonald Jim Wilson
Flue, The 5.8 A2 III FA 1962 Warren Harding Bob Kamps FFA 1989 Elliot Robinson
Green Strip, The 5.7 A2 II FA 1962 Al Macdonald Les Wilson FFA 5.9 1965 Tom Higgins Mike Dent
Hanging Boulders, The 5.6 A3 III FA 1962 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehernfeucht
Hourglass, The, Left Side 5.8 A4 FA 1962 Bob Kamps Joe McKeown FFA 5.11a R 1971 Peter Haan Rick Linkert Mike Farrell
Koko Ledge, Continuation A4 FA 1962 Glenn Denny Frank Sacherer
La Escuela 5.5 A2 II FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert FFA 5.11b 1973 Steve Wunsch Mark Chapman
Limbo Ledge 5.8 A3 II FA 1962 Jim Baldwin Steve Roper FFA 5.10b 1975 Pete Livesey
Lower Cathedral Spire, Lower North Face 5.7 A2 IV FA 1962 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz
Lower Cathedral Spire, Upper North Face 5.9 A3 IV FA 1962 Galen Rowell Al Macdonald
Maxine's Wall 5.7 A3 II FA 1962 Les Wilson Al Macdonald FFA 5.10c 1973 Pete Livesey Andreas Maurer
North Dome, West Face Route 5.7 A2 II FA 1962 Art Gran Steve Roper FFA 5.8 1972 Peter Barton Mark Chapman
Pegasus (East Quarter Dome, North Face) 5.8 A3 V FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost FFA 5.12 1980 Max Jones Mark Hudon
Quarter Dome; North Face (Pegasus) 5.9 A2 V FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard Tom Frost FFA 5.12 1980 Max Jones Mark Hudon
Ribbon Falls, West Buttress 5.8 A3 IV FA 1962 Frank Sacherer Bob Kamps
Rostrum, The, The Regular North Face Route 5.9 A2 V FA 1962 Glen Denny Warren Harding FFA 5.11c 1985 Ron Kauk John Yablonski Kim Carrigan
Sentinel Rock, Direct North Face 5.9 A3 V FA 1962 Royal Robbins Tom Frost FFA 5.12a
Slab Happy Pinnacle, Left 5.8 A3 III FA 1962 Royal Robbins Jack Turner FFA 5.10d 1974 Mark Chapman Art Higbee
Turret, The 5.8 A2 IV FA 1962 Bob Kamps Mark Powell FFA 5.11 1973 Jim Donini John Bragg
Wendy 5.7 A1 II FA 1962 Frank Sacherer Bob Kamps FFA 5.9 1970 Kim Schmitz Marty Martin
Bridalveil Falls, East Buttress 5.8 A3 III FA 1963 Royal Robbins TM Herbert
Calf, The 5.8 A2 II FA 1963 Joe McKeown Jim Harper FFA 5.11c 1974 John Long
Carbon Wall, The 5.7 A3 III FA 1963 Glen Denny Roger Derryberry
El Capitan, West Buttress 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1963 Layton Kor Steve Roper
Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1963 Royal Robbins Dick McCracken FFA 5.13c/d 1993 Todd Skinner Paul Piana
Hidden Chimney 5.7 A2 IV FA 1963 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehernfeucht
Lost Brother, Northwest Face 5.7 A2 IV FA 1963 Al Macdonald Jeff Dozier Dave French Gary Westernof FFA 5.10c 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
Lower Cathedral Rock, West Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1963 Frank Sacherer Wally Reed
Misty Wall 5.11d A0 V FA 1963 Dick McCracken Royal Robbins FFA 1991 Walt Shipley Kevin Fosburg
Perhaps 5.10d A4 FA 1963 Bob Kamps Andy Lichtman
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right 5.5 A3 I FA 1963 Glen Denny Eric Beck FFA 5.11b 1975 Vern Clevenger
Rappel Chimney, The 5.7 A3 III FA 1963 Wolfgang Heinritz Les Wilson Leif Patterson Andrzej Ehrenfeucht
Ribbon Falls, West Portal 5.8 A3 IV FA 1963 Chris Fredericks Steve Roper
Rixon's Pinnacle, Direct South Face 5.11d A1 FA 1963 Glen Denny Gary Colliver
Rixon's Pinnacle, Far West 5.11 A1 FA 1963 Royal Robbins Dick McCracken
Sentinel Rock, Kor-Denny Route 5.9 A3 V FA 1963 Layton Kor Glen Denny
Slabs, The 5.6 A2 II FA 1963 Wolfgang Heinritz Andrzej Ehrenfeucht Les Wilson
Upper Yosemite Falls, East Side 5.9 A4 VI FA 1963 Dick McCracken Royal Robbins
Folly, The, Left Side 5.9 A3 FA 1964 Layton Kor Jim Bridwell
High Arc, The (Positively Intoxicated) A3 I FA 1964 Tom Cochrane FFA 5.11d 1981 Peter Mayfield Augie Klein
Mt. Watkins, South Face 5.8 A4 VI FA 1964 Warren Harding Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt FFA 5.13 Brooke Sandahl Steve Sutton
Negative Pinnacle, Left A3 FA 1964 Gary Colliver
North America Wall 5.8 A2 VI FA 1964 Tom Frost Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt Royal Robbins
Washington Column, South Face 5.8 C1 V FA 1964 Layton Kor Chris Fredericks
Bacchigaloupe Wall 5.9 A2 III FA 1965 Pete Spoecker Steve Herrero FFA 5.9 1981 Don Reid Greg Sonagere Alan Bartlett
Book of Revelations 5.9 A2 II FA 1965 Gordon Webster Chuck Ostin FFA 5.11a 1974 Bob Finn Chris Falkenstein
Flying Buttress Direct 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Chris Fredericks Layton Kor
Gold Wall 5.10 A3 V FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender
Inspiration Buttress 5.8 A3 IV FA 1965 Joe Faint Mike Borghoff
Min-Ne-Ah (Yosemite Point Southeast Face) 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Gordon Webster TM Herbert FFA 5.11d 1990 Scott Cosgrove Walt Shipley
Muir Wall 5.9 A2 VI FA 1965 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert
Rattlesnake Buttress 5.8 A2 III FA 1965 Layton Kor Fred Beckey FFA 5.11a 1982 Werner Braun Rick Cashner
Salami Ledge 5.7 A2 IV FA 1965 Les Wilson Wolfgang Heinritz FFA 5.10 1989 Tucker Tech
Yellow Corner (Turning Yellow) 5.7 A4 IV FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender FFA 5.12a R 1992 Walt Shipley Tucker Tech
Yosemite Point, Southeast Face (Min-Ne-Ah) 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Gordon Webster TM Herbert FFA 1990 Scott Cosgrove Walt Shipley
Cobra, The 5.9 A2 IV FA 1966 Mark Powell Bob Kamps FFA 5.11a R 1975 Tobin Sorenson Tim Sorenson
Direct Assistance Route 5.7 A4 IV FA 1966 Layton Kor John Hudson Dick Williams
Midwall 5.9 A4 V FA 1966 Tom Fender Kim Schmitz
Nevada Falls, Right Side 5.8 A1 II FA 1966 Al Steck Jim Wilson Dick Long
Psychedelic Wall 5.8 A4 V FA 1966 Ken Boche Dennis Hennek
Bad Wall 5.8 A4 V FA 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Crack-a-Go-Go 5.8 A2 II FA 1967 Harvey Carter Pete Pederson FFA 5.11c 1974 Pete Livesey Ron Fawcett
Dinner Ledge Direct 5.7 A4 IV FA 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Easter Egg, The 5.7 A1 FA 1967 Rob Foster Greg Schaffer
El Capitan, West Face 5.9 A4 VI FA 1967 TM Herbert Royal Robbins FFA 5.11c 1979 Ray Jardine Bill Price
Great Slab Route 5.8 A4 V FA 1967 Layton Kor Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Higher Cathedral Rock, East Face Route 5.10 A4 V FA 1967 Jim Bridwell Chris Fredericks
South Central 5.10a A2 V FA 1967 Jim Bridwell Joe Faint
Will-O'-The-Wisp 5.5 A1 II FA 1967 Jim Chamberlain Bob Grow
Firefall Face 5.8 A4 V FA 1968 Galen Rowell Warren Harding
Good Book, The (Right Side of the Folly) 5.8 A3 IV FA 1968 Warren Harding Tom Fender FFA 5.10d 1973 Dale Bard Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Ron Kauk
Higher Cathedral Rock, North Face 5.9 A4 V FA 1968 Chuck Pratt Dennis Hennek Yvon Chouinard Bob Kamps
Lost Arrow Spire, Direct 5.11 A3 V FA 1968 Warren Harding Pat Callis
Mosstrum, The 5.8 A3 III FA 1968 Bob Bauman Chuck Pratt Bruce Kumph
Nickel Pinnacle, East Face 5.8 A2 III FA 1968 Chuck Kroger Kep Stone
Shadyside Bench 5.8 A1 II FA 1968 Alan Gillespie Bill Nelson
Bircheff-Williams 5.8 A2 V FA 1969 Phil Bircheff Steve Williams FFA 5.11b 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Gobi Wall 5.8 A4 V FA 1969 Chuck Pratt Ken Boche
Half Dome, Northwest Buttress 5.7 A3 IV FA 1969 Andy Embick Bob Jensen
La Escuela Direct A4 FA 1969 Eric Beck Steve Williams
Liberty Cap, Southwest Face 5.10 A3 VI FA 1969 Galen Rowell Joe Faint Warren Harding
Moratorium, The 5.8 A2 III FA 1969 Bruce Price Bill Griffin Bob Edwards FFA 5.11b 1975 Pete Livesey Trevor Jones
Mud Flats 5.8 A3 II FA 1969 Kim Schmitz Don Peterson FFA 5.11d R 1984 Roger Greatrick Carl Jonasson
Nevada Falls, Slot Machine, The 5.5 A2 II FA 1969 Scott Baxter Lee Dexter
Prow, The 5.6 C2F V FA 1969 Royal Robbins Glen Denny
Symphony, The 5.9 A1 FA 1969 Chuck Ostin Tim Fitzgerald
Tis-sa-ack 5.10 A4 VI FA 1969 Royal Robbins Don Peterson
Triple Direct 5.8 C2 VI FA 1969 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
West Quarter Dome, North Face 5.8 A3 IV FA 1969 Phil Koch Dave Goeddel
Arcturus 5.7 A4 VI FA 1970 Royal Robbins Dick Dorworth
BHOS Dome 5.8 A3 III FA 1970 Doug Scott TM Herbert Don Lauria Dennis Hennek
Galloping Consumption 5.9 A1 III FA 1970 Chuck Pratt Steve Roper FFA 5.11a 1987 Don Reid Alan Roberts
Half Dome, South Face Route 5.8 A4 VI FA 1970 Warren Harding Galen Rowell
Heart Route, The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1970 Chuck Kroger Scott Davis
Higher Cathedral Rock, Northeast Corner 5.8 A3 V FA 1970 Chuck Pratt Joe Kelsey
Higher Cathedral Spire, Southeast Side, Southeast Face 5.8 A3 III FA 1970 Keith Edwards Fred Cady FFA 5.10d 1989 Keith Reynolds Alvino Pon
In Cold Blood 5.8 A4 V FA 1970 Royal Robbins
New Dimensions 5.11 A1 III FA 1970 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell FFA 5.11a 1972 Barry Bates Steve Wunsch
Parkline Slab; Direct Route 5.6 A3 III FA 1970 Jerry Anderson Bruce Price John Yates
Renegade, The (Stigma, The) 5.13 A3 FA 1970 Dennis Miller Brian Birmingham FFA 1986 Alan Watts
Stigma, The (The Renegade) 5.13 A3 FA 1970 Dennis Miller Brian Birmingham FFA 1986 Alan Watts
Teeter Tower 5.7 A1 III FA 1970 Jack Delk Bill Sorenson
Vain Hope 5.7 A3 V FA 1970 Royal Robbins Kim Schmitz Jim Bridwell
Via Sin Aqua 5.10 A2 V FA 1970 Rick Sylvester Bugs McKeith
Aquarian Wall 5.9 A4 VI FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Eggplant, The A3 FA 1971 Kent Stokes John Svenson FFA 5.10b 1989 Walt Shipley Xavier Bongard
Fight or Flight (Lower Yosemite Falls, Right Side) 5.7 A3 FA 1971 John Svenson Kent Stokes FFA 1989 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
Geek Towers, Right Side 5.10a A2 FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Heart Woute (Son of Heart) 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown
Lower Yosemite Falls, Right Side (Flight or Fight) 5.7 A3 FA 1971 John Svenson Kent Stokes FFA 1989 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
Route of All Evil 5.9 A4 V FA 1971 Matt Donohoe Cliff Jennings
Wall of Early Morning Light 5.7 A3 VI FA 1971 Warren Harding Dean Cadwell
Watermelon Rind 5.9 A3 V FA 1971 John Svenson Sharon Young Kent Stokes Bob Schneider
Abazaba 5.11c A3 FA 1972 Charlie Porter Walter Rosenthal FFA 1986 Scott Cosgrove Walt Shipley
Coffin Nail A3+ FA 1972 Charlie Porter
Cosmos 5.8 A4 VI FA 1972 Jim Dunn
Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 IV FA 1972 Charlie Porter Walter Rosenthal FFA 1975 Dale Bard Werner Braun
Keel Haul 5.10 A3 VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter Walter Rosenthal
Magic Mushroom 5.10 A4 VI FA 1972 Hugh Burton Steve Sutton
Nashville Skyline 5.8 A3 V FA 1972 Charlie Porter Gary Bocarde
Sheba A4+ FA 1972 Charlie Porter
Shield, The (Salathe Start) 5.7 C4F VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter Gary Bocarde
Zodiac 5.7 A2 VI FA 1972 Charlie Porter FFA 5.13d 2003 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
Comedy of Folly 5.9 A4 V FA 1973 Rik Rieder
Mescalito 5.8 A3 VI FA 1973 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton Steve Sutton Chris Nelson
Miscreant Wall 5.9 A4 V FA 1973 Bruce Hawkins Keith Nannery
Tangerine Trip 5.8 A2 VI FA 1973 Charlie Porter John-Paul de St. Croix
Eagle Roof A1 FA 1974 Dave Diegleman Bill Price Augie Klein
Grape Race 5.9 A5 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Bev Johnson
Horse Chute 5.9 A3 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton
New Dawn 5.8 A3 VI FA 1974 Charlie Porter Yvon Chouinard Chuck Pratt Dennis Hennick Chris Jones
Electric Ladyland 5.10a A4 VI FA 1975 Gib Lewis Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Excalibur 5.9 A3 VI FA 1975 Charlie Porter Hugh Burton
Lost World 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1975 C. Folsom Dave Anderson Mike Warburton
Mother Earth 5.11c A4 VI FA 1975 George Meyers John Long Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman Ron Kauk
Pacific Ocean Wall 5.9 A3 VI FA 1975 Jim Bridwell Billy Westbay Jay Fiske Fred East
Waterfall Route 5.10b A4 VI FA 1975 Daryle Teske T. Polk
Eagle's Way 5.8 A3 VI FA 1976 Mark Chapman Mike Graham Jim Orey
Lurking Fear 5.7 C2F VI FA 1976 Dave Bircheff Jim Pettigrew FFA 5.13/A0
Mirage 5.9 A4 VI FA 1976 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz Jim Pettigrew
Bushido 5.10 A4 VI FA 1977 Jim Bridwell Dale Bard
Dorn Direct (to Shield) 5.9 A4 VI FA 1977 Tony Yaniro Ron Olevsky
Hockey Night in Canada 5.10 A3 VI FA 1977 Darrell Hatten Bill Stern
New Jersey Turnpike 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1977 Bruce Hawkins Ron Kauk Dale Bard Hugh Burton
Skunk Crack 5.11b A1 FA 1977 Ray Jardine John Lakey
Wet Denim Daydream 5.6 C3F V FA 1977 Darrell Hatten Angus Thuermer
Bob Locke Memorial Buttress 5.11 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Ron Kauk John Long Kim Schmitz
Dorn's Crack 5.10c A0 FA 1978 Jack Dorn Jim Beyer Bob Sullivan
Hook, Line and Sinker 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1978 Mike Munger Angus Thurmer Steve Larson
Iron Hawk 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
Negative Pinnacle, Center A4 FA 1978 Jim Beyer
Never Never Land 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Bruce Hawkins Mark Chapman
Sea of Dreams 5.9 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Dale Bard Dave Diegelman
Sunkist 5.9 A5 VI FA 1978 Bill Price Dale Bard
Tiger's Paw 5.10a A1 FA 1978 Don Reid Rick Cashner
Tribal Rite A4 VI FA 1978 Walter Rosenthal Tom Carter Dale Bard
Yosemite Point Buttress, Czech Route 5.10 A1 VI FA 1978 Jan Porvazik A. Behia
Zenith 5.8 A4 VI FA 1978 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Born Under A Bad Sign 5.10 A5 VI FA 1979 Bill Price Tim Washick
Derelict's Diagonal A4 FA 1979 Chuck Goldman Mathew Moore
Jolly Rodger 5.10 A5 VI FA 1979 Charles Cole Steve Grossman
Plume, The A2 FA 1979 Don Reid Chuck Goldmann
South Seas 5.8 A4 VI FA 1979 Bill Price Charlie Row Guy Thompson
More Balls then Brains A3- FA 1980 Dana Brown
Aurora 5.8 A4 VI FA 1981 Peter Mayfield Greg Child
Bulging Puke 5.9 A4 V FA 1981 Bill Russell Chris Friel
Chinese Water Torture 5.11 A4 VI FA 1981 Karl McConachie Jay Smith
Colony of Slippermen 5.11+ A1 FA 1981 Chris Cantwell Mark Grant
Mad Pilot 5.11b A1 FA 1981 Rob Rohn Peter Croft
Pink Banana 5.10d A1 FA 1981 Chris Cantwell Bruce Morris Mike Hernandez Donald Cantwell FFA 1987 Greg Murphy Nathan Robinson Elliot Robbinson
Sunblast 5.13a A2+ FA 1981 Don Reid Grant Hiskes FFA Dave Schultz
Wings of Steel 5.10+ A4 VI FA 1981 Richard Jensen Mark Smith
Zenyatta Mondatta 5.7 A4 VI FA 1981 Jim Bridwell Peter Mayfield Charlie Row
Higher Aspirations 5.8 A3 V FA 1982 Rik Derrick Steve Bosque
Lunar Eclipse 5.7 A4 VI FA 1982 John Barbella Steve Schneider
Mischief 5.8 A2 FA 1982 Marshall Ravenscroft Tim Kemple
Old A5 A3 FA 1982 Peter Chesko
Pacemaker 5.9 A4 VI FA 1982 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Murray Barnett Jim Siler
Pink Pussycat A1 FA 1982 Don Reid Greg Sonagere
Silent Line 5.10c A1 V FA 1982 Rick Cashner Werner Braun
Squeeze Play 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1982 Mike Corbett Gary Edmondson Rich Albuschkat
Unemployment Line 5.9 A3 FA 1982 Alan Bartlett Jim May Steve Gerberding
Arctic Sea 5.10 A4 VI FA 1983 Tom Cosgriff Duane Raleigh
Buried Treasure 5.11a A0 FA 1983 Steve Schneider Rob Oravetz
Die Schweine Von Oben 5.11 A3+ VI FA 1983 Bill Russell Paul Fiola
Mideast Crisis 5.8 A4 V FA 1983 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett
Rainbow 5.10 A3 V FA 1983 Paul Fiola Chris Freel
Bad to the Bone 5.9+ A4 VI FA 1984 Jay Smith Lidija Painkiher
Bermuda Dunes 5.11c A4+ VI FA 1984 Steve Schneider John Barbella
Blockbuster 5.11c A1 FA 1984 Don Reid Grant Hiskes Dimitri Barton
Horse Play 5.9 A3 VI FA 1984 Steve Grossman Sue Harrington
Queen of Spades 5.9 A4 VI FA 1984 Charles Cole
Real Nose 5.10 A4 VI FA 1984 Charles Cole Steve Grossman
Roulette A5 FA 1984 Earl Redfern Tom Bepler
Skull Queen 5.8 C2 V FA 1984 Dave Altenburg Chuck Clance Steve Bosque
Time Machine A5+ VI FA 1984 Bob Shonerd
Wyoming Sheep Ranch 5.8 A4 VI FA 1984 Rob Slater John Barbella
Atlantic Ocean Wall 5.9 A4 VI FA 1985 John Middendorf John Barbella
Disco Strangler 5.10 A4 V FA 1985 Earl Redfern Tom Bepler Eric Brand
Dyslexia 5.10d A4 VI FA 1985 Ellie Hawkins
Learning to Crawl 5.9 A3+ V FA 1985 Mike Corbett Steve Bosque Fritz Fox
Liberty Cap, West Buttress 5.10 A3 V FA 1985 Mike Corbett Steve Bosque
Lost in America 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Randy Leavitt Greg Child
Mr. Midwest 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1985 Bill Russell Doug McDonald
Realm of the Flying Monkeys 5.10a A3 VI FA 1985 Steve Bosque Dan McDevitt
Space 5.10 A4 VI FA 1985 Charles Cole
Heading for Oblivion 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1986 Jim Beyer
Karma 5.11d A0 V FA 1986 Dave Schultz Ken Yager Jim Campbell
Local Motion 5.11d A1 FA 1986 Doug McDonald Werner Braun
On the Waterfront 5.9 A5 VI FA 1986 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Gwen Schneider
Same as it Never Was 5.11b A4 VI FA 1986 Jay Smith Karl McConachie Randy Grandstaff
Yosemite Pointless 5.9 A3 V FA 1986 Bob Ost Norman Boles
Battlescar 5.11d A1 FA 1987 Ed Barry Doug MacDonald
Big Chill, The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1987 Jim Bridwell Peter Mayfield Sean Plunkett Steve Bosque
Floating Lama 5.11c A1 FA 1987 Doug McDonald
Heartland 5.10 A4+ VI FA 1987 John Barbella Eric Brand
Luminescent Wall 5.10b A4 VI FA 1987 John Barbella Walt Shipley
Native Son 5.9 A4 VI FA 1987 Walt Shipley Troy Johnson
Scorched Earth 5.11 A5 VI FA 1987 Randy Leavitt Rob Slater
Ten Days After 5.8 A3 VI FA 1987 John Barbella Eric Brand
Bad Seed 5.9 A4+ VI FA 1988 Bill Russell Troy Johnson
Central Scrutinizer 5.11c A4+ VI FA 1988 Steve Grossman Jay Ladin
Escape From Freedom 5.11c A1 VI FA 1988 Urmas Franosch Bruce Morris
For Your Eyes Only (Octopussy) 5.9 A3 VI FA 1988 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Horney/Johnson 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1988 Jeff Hornibrook Troy Johnson
Love Without Anger 5.8 A3 V FA 1988 Steve Bosque Rich Albuschkat
Morality Check 5.10 A0 FA 1988 Tucker Tech Pete Takeda
Old A2 A2 FA 1988 Dana Brown Jeff Perrin
Timbuktu Left 5.10 A3 VI FA 1988 Franco Perlotto
Turkey Shoot 5.9 A3 V FA 1988 Ken Yager Steve Bosque
Via Sin Liquor 5.9 A4 VI FA 1988 Eric Kohl Alan Humphrey
White Room, The 5.10 A4 VI FA 1988 Sean Plunkett Walt Shipley
Aqua Vulva (Route 66) 5.10 A4 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl John Middendorf
Bananarama 5.10a A3 V FA 1989 Rich Albuschkat Steve Bosque Murray Barnett
Dante's Inferno 5.9 A3+ VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl
Flashback 5.8 A3 V FA 1989 Steve Bosque Rich Albuschkat
Genesis 5.11b A4 VI FA 1989 Doug Englekirk Eric Brand
High Plains Dripper 5.11 A5 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl Alan Humphrey
Jet Stream, The 5.9 A4 VI FA 1989 Sean Plunkett Bill Russell
Kali Yuga, The 5.10 A4 VI FA 1989 Walt Shipley John Middendorf
Promised Land, The 5.10 A4 VI FA 1989 Kevin Fosburg Jeff Hornibrook Troy Johnson
Reach for the Sky 5.11 A4+ VI FA 1989 Jim Beyer
Shadows A5 VI FA 1989 Jim Bridwell Cito Kirkpatrick Charlie Row Billy Westbay
Toxic Waste Dump 5.8 A3+ VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl
Wheel of Torture 5.7 A4 VI FA 1989 Eric Kohl
Affliction, The 5.11d A0 V FA 1990 Walt Shipley Scott Cosgrove
Ecstacy of Gold, The 5.10 A3 VI FA 1990 Eric Rassmussen Doug Olmstead
Fantasy Island 5.13b A0 FA 1990 Dave Schultz
Highway to Hell 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Garbor Berecz Thomas Tivadar
Hole World 5.10 A4 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
Ice Age 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
Pressure Cooker 5.10 A4 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl
Re-Animator 5.8 A3 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Saddam Hussein 5.9 A4 V FA 1990 Eric Brand Stewart Irving
Shortest Straw, The 5.7 A4 VI FA 1990 Rick Lovelace
Surgeon General 5.9 A5 VI FA 1990 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Crystal Cyclone A4+ VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Hole in the Sky 5.10b A3 VI FA 1991 Kevin Fosburg Paul Turecki
Plastic Surgery Disaster 5.8 A5 VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Reckless Abandon 5.8 A4+ VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Solar Power Arete 5.10a A3+ VI FA 1991 Kevin Fosburg Paul Turecki
Winds of Change 5.10 A5 VI FA 1991 Richard Jensen
World of Pain 5.8 A5 VI FA 1991 Eric Kohl
Chief, The 5.11b A1 V FA 1992 Al Swanson Arthur James Foley III Brian Warshow
Electric Ocean 5.10 A4 VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
Get Wacked 5.10 A5 VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
Jesus Built My Hotrod 5.8 A4 V FA 1992 Eric Kohl Eric Rasmussen
Lost Again 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1992 Eric Kohl
Prism, The 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1992 Urmas Franosch Sean Plunkett
Southern Man 5.8 A2 V FA 1992 Francis Ross Rich Albushkat
Virginia 5.7 A3 VI FA 1992 Chuck Clance Steve Bosque
Ashes to Ashes A4 V FA 1993 Eric Rasmussen Chris Purnell
Flight of the Albatross 5.8 A3 VI FA 1993 John Middendorf Will Oxx
Freaks of Nature 5.11c A0 FA 1993 Mike McGrale Cary Hansen Jeff Snedden
Kaos 5.7 A4 VI FA 1993 Steve Gerberding Dave Bengston
Express Checkout 5.8 A5 VI FA 1993 Eric Kohl
Tempest A4 VI FA 1993 Jeff Hornibrook Brad Jarret Price Lloyd
Adrift 5.11 A3+ VI FA 1995 Steve Quinlan Paul Pritchard
Reticent Wall 5.7 A5 VI FA 1995 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Laurie Stowe
When Hell was in Session 5.9 A5 VI FA 1995 Eric Kohl Pete Takeda
Reason Beyond Insanity 5.7 A4 VI FA 1995 Sean Easton Dave Sheldon
Abstract Expressionist A5 VI FA 1996 Eric Kohl
Continental Drift 5.9 A4 VI FA 1997 Steve Gerberding Kevin Thaw Conrad Anker
History of the Future A3 III FA 1997 Bryan Law
Hurricane Jingus 5.9 A4 VI FA 1997 Eric Kohl Bryan Law
Lost in Translation 5.6 A4+ V FA 1997 Chris McNamara Chris Ewing
Sad State of Afairs, A 5.7 A3 V FA 1997 Eric Rasmussen Mike Zawaski
Sargantana 5.9 A5 VI FA 1997 Pep Mesip Silvia Vidal
Blue Shift 5.11b A4 VI FA 1997 Jay Smith Karl McConachie
Disorderly Conduct 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Miles Smart Bart Groendycke
El Nino 5.13c A0 VI FA 1998 Alex Huber Thomas Huber
Girdle Traverse 5.10 A4 VI FA 1998 Chris McNamara Mark Melvin
Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys 5.9 A5 VI FA 1998 Jim Bridwell Tyson Hausdoerffer Boulos Ayad
It's So Awful PDK+ VI FA 1998 Eric Kohl
Ned's Excellent Adventure A4 VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Bryan Law
Nightmare on California St. 5.8 A4+ VI FA 1998 Warren Hollinger Grant Gardner
Sky is Falling 5.10 A? VI FA 1998 Eric Kohl Bryan Law
Allied Forces 5.9 A3 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Al Swanson Mark Bowling Odd Roar Wilk
Dark Star 5.10 A5 VI FA 1999 Jim Bridwell Giovani Groaz
Every Man for Himself A4 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Mark Bowling
Gulf Stream 5.9 A4 VI FA 1999 Steve Gerberding Jay Smith
Life on the Dark Side 5.6 A3 IV FA 1999 Bryan Law Ammon McNeely
Passage to Freedom 5.13c A0 VI FA 1999 Leo Houlding Jose Pereyra
Summerland 5.8 A3 VI FA 1999 Bryan Law Roger Strong
Cataclysmic Mega Sheer 5.11d A2 VI FA 2000 Eric Kohl Bryan Law
Laughing at the Void 5.9 A3 V FA 2000 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Slacker's Toil 5.8 A4 VI FA 2001 Jim Beyer
Escaoe From Tora Bora A2 VI FA 2002 Eric Kohl
Great Disgrace, The 5.9 A3+ VI FA 2002 Jon Blair Jeff Hornibrook Bryan Kay
Persian Gulf 5.9 A3+ V FA 2002 Jon Blair Mark Garbarini
Tora Bora 5.9 A3+ V FA 2002 Josh Thompson Bryan Kay
Martyr's Brigade 5.11 A5 VI FA 2002 Jim Beyer
Jose Memorial Variation 5.7 A3+ VI FA 2003 Ammon McNeely Gabe McNeely Austin McNeely
Quo Vadis 5.9 A4+ VI FA 2003 Jacek Czyz
Reign in Blood PDK VI FA 2003 Eric Kohl
Wild Apes 5.9 A3 VI FA 2003 Mark Garbarini Jon Blair Bryan Kay
Witching Hour PDK VI FA 2003 Eric Kohl
climbs not used:
40 oz of Freedom 5.10 A3 V FA
Cookie Continuation A0 FA
Delectable Pinnacle, Aid Route A3- FA
Gold Ribbon 5.10 A3 VI FA
In Justice for All PDK VI FA Eric Kohl
Joint Adventure, A 5.9 A3+ IV FA
Lehamite Buttress 5.6 A2 FA
Liberty Cap, Direct Southwest Face 5.10 A5 V FA Rick Cashner Werner Braun
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face 5.9 A3 V FA
Notch Route 5.7 A1 I FA FFA 5.10b R 1966 Royal Robbins
Old A3 A3+ FA
Ribbon Falls, East Portal 5.9 A4 V FA
Ring of Fire A5 VI FA Richard Jensen Mark Smith
Riptide A4 FA
Round em' up A3 FA
Shack 5.10 A3+ VI FA Sean Plunkett
Soul Shakedown 5.11 A4 VI FA Urmas Franosch Sean Plunkett
Tenaya's Terror 5.9 A4 VI FA Mike Corbett Steve Bosque
Vodka Putsch, The 5.10 A4 VI FA Bill Russell Pete Takeda
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Roy et al-
Chuck Clance has an article in Climbing #260 October '07 describing his epic on the second ascent of Pacemaker. Bad weather no food the works. Not quite the epic that Bosque, Middendorf, and Corbett had on the South Face of Half Dome, but entertaining nonetheless.
Best
lars
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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my winter project will be going through AAJ and adding route information from that source...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Ed - let me know if you want some help with the project. Have a pretty vast library to draw from. Maybe I could help with route references from climbing mags? Will help however you can use it, just let me know.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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steelmnky,
the AAJ is online, so I can actually access that... but I don't have a complete set of Climbing, or Rock & Ice or Mountain, or Summit. If I had those references I'd add them in a "Journals" column in the database.
Also, some of the missing route info, and actually missing routes, are in the rags, so that information would add to the database.
I wouldn't ask you to do it, I become obsessed beyond reason when I am in that mode, but if you provided the information I'd add it to the spread sheet!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Ed I hear ya. Totally your project. Just offering whatever I can help with. It's a huge job. I have most of the mags including Climbing, R&I, Mountain, Summit and Off Belay.
If you get me the latest spreadsheet (add the appropriate column), we can go from there. Maybe think about a format you want to use (eg. Magazine, Issue #, Page # ) or something so it will be right when I put it in.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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steelmnky - no problem with everyone working on it! I don't consider it "my" project as it is the work of a lot of people, the climbers, the guidebook writers, you all looking at it and sending comments in...
...I just wouldn't wish on you the same sort of mania that visits me when I'm working on it!
Here are two plots. The number of climbs per decade in four categories: All, Aid FAs, FFAs, and FAs that were initially "free".
the decade of the 70s was the first one where the majority of the FAs were put up free with no aid.
EDIT: note that the "decade" labels mark the upper end of the decade...
Here's another way of looking at it, the fraction of the three catagories ("all" is removed, but I could put "unknown" there...)
The rise and fall of Aid FA's is evident, the decade of the 60s being the largest aid FA decade so far.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Hey Ed, I'm the same way, so lemme know... sooner the better. I'm kind of in between my own maniac projects right now.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This is getting richer by the moment...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Steelmnkey,
Per Kevin's suggestion on the freeclimbing evolution, perhaps you'd be interested in scanning a couple articles to extend the big wall free trajectory beyond what I posted about Hudon & Jones from Mountain Magazine?
Maybe check these for some pertinent articles:
(not sure if feature articles complemented the cover shots)
The first: Climbing #88, Skinner Piana/Salathe
The second: Climbing #110, Huber Bros on Salathe
Also, the Clance/Pacemaker item noted by Lars would be suave...
I had these issues, but tossed them prior to my Supertopo tenure...
(I've been scanning at 700 wide and about 225KB per page, to get good print read)
cover pics from:
http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/coverarchive/
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Warbler - I'll see what I can do, the graphs get complicated quickly but I have some ideas... but tomorrow I'm in Tuolumne Meadows...
here's the routes per year stuff we talked about earlier
Yosemite Valley FA's per year
and one on grades in the Valley
5.14 does NOT exist"
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!