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L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
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I kind of think you guys might be giving this BASE rig way more "protective value" than it truly merits.
First off, he's climbing into the rockface. If he falls--a hold breaks, his feet slip, whatever--he falls straight down facing the rock. We've all taken falls--we all know the deal. Now the big thing with BASE (which I know from hang gliding for the similar dynamics, and from friends who BASE jump), is getting as far away from the rock as possible, which means facing away from the rock.
So not only would he have to have his wits together enough after a surprise fall to push away from the rock to clear it, but to make sure his body is turned outward. Overhanging rock gives you the advantage of being somewhat away from the face, but doesn't allow you to push off, which would help you turn. And with the fall rate of the human body, there's just not a lot of time to manuever.
It just seems a little questionable to me that he actually wore his BASE rig for security reasons as much as for his planned jump at the end of the climb.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 10, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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Holy Cow he's wearing a Wingsuit also.
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L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
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Aug 10, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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OK...now we're talkin' carrying the net with ya!
Where the heck did he find a flesh-colored Wingsuit???
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 10, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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WalMart, where else?
Isle 3, Cellophane, Foil and Wax Paper.
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Degaine
climber
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Aug 10, 2008 - 03:50am PT
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"I know it's historic and all but the Eiger looks like one of the biggest junkers in creation.
JL"
Now that the permafrost is disappearing it's even more so.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Aug 10, 2008 - 08:55am PT
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Approximate line/location of Deep Blue Sea (7b+, 300m, Rathmaier-Ruhstaller, 2001) that Dean soloed.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=94901
Yes, did he onsight or pre-practice? The reports have not yet clarified this important distinction.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2008 - 09:15am PT
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Whatever about the man, and the fact that it wasn't on the Nordwand proper, I am still very impressed. You'll NEVER see me doing something like that.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 10, 2008 - 09:47am PT
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I think it was really a cool thing to do, and as Largo said, if he fell, he could have fallen back first, facing into the wall, whatever...all bad.
I hope he had fun. For the life of me, I can't figure out why so many of you people bitch and moan about what someone else does. Really, people have been climbing and jumping stuff for almost 30 years. The only time I did it, I had to hike FOREVER to carry the rigs up. Then do the route. Then jump. Then go back up and carry the rack and stuff down. This way looks far funner.
Good for him. Hope he had a good time.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 10, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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Exposure, smouser.
Do you really think these guys think about exposure?
The ground follows them up, and they are never more than a foot from safety.
Thats the mindset you have.
So what difference does it make if you are hangin 1000 feet off the parking lot, or 100 feet over a rock pile?
Makes no difference, so you are wasting brain power if you think about it.
It is all right in front of you, no where else.
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Michael
Trad climber
Boulder
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:24am PT
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This Supertopo forum has degraded into shameless criticism of Dean for false worship of the commenter’s ego...
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ric
Trad climber
Annapolis, MD
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Aug 15, 2008 - 07:27am PT
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I thought free solo climbing was done without gear protection.
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Aug 15, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
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For all you Dean Potter haters – Say what you will about his motives from time to time, but this guy is visionary and is in a class of his own. BTW, a lot could go wrong if you didn’t have a clean “exit” if you fell while climbing with a parachute. Bad body position would cause the parachute to not deploy correctly. You could get line twist. You could open up with the square parachute surging into the wall, etc. Basically, if he fell while really going for it, the chances would be much higher for a malfunction of some sort. Conversely, if he just “chickened out”, and jumped off a stance, then his odds would be much better – more like those of a regular BASE jump. An interesting game that gets riskier as you push you own limits. Congratulations Dean. Be careful out there.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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Un-bo-weevel-ble!
Another amazing setting of stratospheric new standards by the Dean.
Nice going!
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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Doesn't everyone BASE-jump now?
X-games meets polesitting, news at five.
Good for you, Dean.
I can't wait to hear your opinion.
"The colors were so brilliant, it was like climbing into a dream. I didn't even notice the cameras rolling."
"I think I'll have another tofu burger washed down with soy milk."
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Aug 15, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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Amazing? F'in A! Will it "change climbing"? Maybe, but certainly not for me, or for any of you other Average Joes sitting at your keyboards.
What is really amazing is all the spewing of strong opinions by those of you who didn't even bother to see what Dean did. "The Eiger was getting soloed X number of years ago, and that Delicate Arch thing really pisses me off, so . . .(INSERT SLANDEROUS COMMENT ABOUT DEAN, HERE)".
Way to go Dean, for such an outrageous climb and for not getting yourself killed!
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Aug 15, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
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Very impressive feat! Amazing.
"There is no spoon."
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 15, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
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hey there all... say, i must appologize for being so slow to visit and learn something new...
i thought perhaps this was some hard controversial thing going on here, as to an unbelievable event---and---i have had some hard nights of catching up on things from my books, to re-set-up and odd working hours, that i put this off UNTIL LATER....
wow, judging by the title being A QUESTION, i did NOT know that this was for real....
i must appologize.... i am very sorry....i thought it was just a simple---though STILL interesting and creatively-done by you all---normal everyday post/thread, in the "what it" or "what do you think" brand...
i will now go back and read it TONIGHT, after i recover from work----wow, guys, i just learned of this from chris's ol' NEWSLETTER.... !!!....
*hmmmm, say, though, after seeing these ending posts just above... i can see that it is perhaps more complex than the title itself......
well, i will definately take time to enjoy and study it.... thanks for the share (i will go back, too, to see who started it AND learn who dean potter is) (and learn about the parachute ????? idea, that i read of)...
and will check the interesting links, too....
say----thanks for always keeping us up on learning what goes on in the climbing world... (once again, i appolgize for thinking this was wayyyyyyyyyyyyy hard to believe!)
god bless....
*thanks chris, too for the ol' newsletter... :)
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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Aug 16, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
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bluering,
I was surprised as I got to preview a Bachar video with one
of his proteges. Looks as though he is schooled well.
Prior to the protege's free solo without pro I watched his
protege take a free solo fall into what appears to be an air
bag below.
Do you remember the H ratings applied to YDS free climbs used
in the 80's?
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