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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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So I have a copy of the mag article here in front of me
last night I dreamed I had legs
Some exerpts
A degenerative nerve diseases is destroying the body of Jeff Lowe, one of climbing's greatest athletes and innovators. He's seen hard times before, on the mountains and in Life. But how do you keep going when there's no way up?
It's December 2006, and I'm high up on a rock wall in Zion National Park, looking down at Jeff Lowe as he fiddles gear into a tiny crack that splits an otherwise flawless pan of tan vertical sandstone. It's not pretty- his movements are slow, weak, and gummy.
The article than describes Jeff aid climbing a 130 pitch and taking a leader fall and popping some gear.
"That night, inside a hotel room in nearby Springdale, Utah, I draw Lowe a bath testing the water to make sure it's not scalding, because he might get burned without feeling it. I put a glass of Scotch on the tub's rim . Lowe shuffles in, naked paunchy. He eases into the water grasping the support rails. "Thanks Pete", he says with a laugh.
I feel like I've done an entire big wall instead of a single pitch."
"Later after his third Scotch, he says its over-the fun is out of it ... I will never climb again"
"JEFF WILL BE DEAD in three years," says his older brother Greg"
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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So I read the whole article. It in no way made me think less of Jeff Lowe. He is just human like the rest of us.
So he had a broken marriage, and was not the greatest businessman at times. Maybe he has contemplated suicide?
Big deal.
I think the article could have focused say 50 percent more on his climbing accomplishments. It seemed a few pages to short.
But the article in no way seemed like a hatchet job.
Good reading.
Juan
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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The human condition is just that....bet if each of us were honest, we could admit that we have all contemplated alot of things...
I came just this close to joining the Navy @ 10 years ago so I wouldn't have to go to work with my hub EVERY day. He was demanding, I was worn out and I knew if I joined no one could touch me.
Oh, I must have been out of my MIND, what we think of when life gets tough? That's why it's good to have a few anchors (oops!) there I go navy again. Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Not my day.....whereever I go it's open mouth insert feet. Yikes!
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Gene
climber
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Starts out with Sisyphus, and then feels like Pete relies on the tale of Icarus, with a touch of Faust. The result is Jeff Lowe. Legends all. But Jello is real.
I found the article dark and morbid.
Edith Hamilton would blush in embarrassment for Pete.
Gene
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L
climber
Jello fan from the City of Lost Angels
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Good point, Reasonable Riley. I certainly didn't think any less of Jeff, either.
In the light of another LA day, and with that protective reaction from last night a fading memory, I suppose I was a bit harsh on Pete and his story. This tiger that lurches out when a friend is hurt by something hasn't yet been taught to heel...much less to not "shake, mutilate, bite the head off, and eviscerate."
Such are the ways of tigers, I suppose.
And though Pete won't receive any awards for that piece...I suppose it's no worse than much of the junk we read in mags these days. However, letting something like that affect one's peace of mind is a tremendous waste of energy and life....so viola! Done.
Much happier now.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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I read it this afternoon.
Mind you, probably like many of our ilk (internet wankers, who happen to like climbing, and possess some modicum of literacy), I know these stories, I know the players, and have even roped up with a few.
But I read it. It's short, filled with pithy quotes, and seemed written with an oddly combined dickhead/sycophant voice. Maybe, since Mr Takeda made his own persona known via years of writing (some of it pretty good) about himself with both self-deprecating derision and obvious pride, he expected he could treat you, as a subject, with the same.
Hardly "journalism." Phht. A better-written profile would be penned by John McPhee, and be printed in something with more type than pretty pictures.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Dmt, Yep, laughing together ! LRL
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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I really like what Riley wrote here. He truely makes a valid point. Its just one article and life will go on for Jeff and all of us.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2008 - 12:19am PT
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Well I read it this evening.
Then I talked with Jeff.
Then I emailed Pete.
Then Pete emailed me back but dodged the issue, mostly sending me "quotes" from unnamed sources raving about how good the article was.
Waiting to hear back.
I'm getting the impression that there may be a lot going on beneath the surface,..
(Duh; gee, ya think?) lol
Update:
I was a few seconds from hitting the "post this reply" button (to the unchanged post above) when Pete called.
Talked to him like a dutch uncle. Told him he has some fences to mend.
Told him not to cave to magazine politics, what they want is not what he wants.
I think that there is a murky combination of motives interacting here that has resulted in unfortunate consequences and a false image of Jeff.
I hope things get resolved more favorably.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:17am PT
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Good job Ron. Did you show him the Ouch cartoon?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:37am PT
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Never met Jeff and I didnt know a lot of that stuff about him. Sounds like a good guy to me, a normal person. It's kind of insensitive for pete to play the article the way he did but, whatever, Jeff's people know him and love him and I do too.
Let it go. Pete prolly regrets the article, he's prolly not a bad guy either. Maybe just too consumed by the media rags, maybe he'll see that.
Jello, you kick ass and you always have, dude. Keep rockin'.
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Owlman
Trad climber
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:02am PT
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Hi Jeff,
I really dig how you open up on ST.
I think we need mentors, in the old way, you know, guides. Real From Here to Eternity guides.
Thanks for hanging in there, and for being patient with us Newbs.
Outside. I hate that magazine.
the only good thing about the issue in question was that bozeman and belgrade didn't make the top 20 list of towns to live. sweet!
so someone sent me a year subscribtion to that piece of work, OUtside. Once the dang magazine was coming,....I had to read it.
You know what, I had the hot surfer lady issue on my table for months.
I'm over her now and have moved on in my life. Peace.
well anyway, last week the Jello issue showed up.
I read about one paragraph o dat sheet and thru the thing away.
really hucked it into the trash.
the garbage man of bozeman took it away.
it's buried deep in the bridger mountains.
it's lying there, rotting.
I think that I would write a letter to the editor.
My buddha nature says, it don't mean nothin.
I still think that I'd write a letter to someone.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Jul 10, 2008 - 03:23am PT
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Ikarus!
He is real too! He fell on my island, dang it!
Though Jeff Lowe has it right about going up instead of down.
Much smarter man.
AF
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Chairman Meow
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Jul 10, 2008 - 03:24am PT
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My name is James Tucker and I live in Salt Lake City. I've been friends with Ron Olevsky for several years, and I was very excited when he ask me to photograph him and Jeff Lowe on the ascent of Touchstone wall that has garnered so much attention here. I hadn't met Steve Biggs before, but he and I teamed up the day before the climb to rig the ropes and haul my camera gear to our high point. The next morning, Steve, Pete Takeda and I jugged up before dawn and set up a fixed line for me to take photos. Jeff and Ron came up behind us and Jeff lead a pitch while I took pictures.
I don't intend to pass judgment on Pete for his article, as I like Pete and I know I don't understand the pressures he faces as an author. That being said, I must say I was dissapointed that the article didn't reflect the overwhelmingly positive feelings I took away from our climb together. What I took from that climb was nothing short of humbling, awe-struck amazement at how Jeff maintains dignity and drive in the face of a disease I have seen cripple many a strong spirit.
I am an MD/PhD student specializing in neurodegenerative diseases. Jeff's disease is one with which I am somewhat familiar, and I have worked with many patients with similarly disabling neurological disorders. I can say with complete honesty that climbing a pitch of dead vertical Zion aid is beyond anything I would have thought an MS patient like Jeff to be capable of. What I witnessed that day was as great an act of bravery and climbing prowess as I will likely ever see again, and to have such heart is something to which I will forever aspire.
A few months after our climb Ron and I spent a few days in the middle of nowhere scouting a new line that would soon become Charlie Fowler Tower, as Charlie had recently gone missing. As I pack my bags tonight to go climb Black Elk on the Warbonnet, a route Jeff and Charlie put up in the year of my birth, I can't help but hope that I am so fortunate as to leave such a legacy.
Personally, I'll take a meaningful life over a long one any day.
 james
Steve Biggs, jugging
(Click for full image)
Pete Takeda, jugging
(Click for full image)
Jeff Lowe and Ron Olevsky jugging at daybreak
(Click for full image)
Jeff starting up the steep third pitch.
(Click for full image)
Jeff working his magic
(Click for full image)
Jeff stepping high to slot a stopper
(Click for full image)
"Hey you kids, get off my lawn!" (my personal favorite)
(Click for full image)
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 03:57am PT
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"Hey you kids get off my lawn"
-great photo!
I'd love to think that caption was inspired by the Rev. Billy Wirz song of the smae name.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 10, 2008 - 06:00am PT
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Ron, did you get any feel for whether what went to print was essentially Pete's version or whether significant liberties were taken by the editors.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2008 - 10:47am PT
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The writing was all Pete, but editors have a way of channeling and cajoling writers to put into print things that would otherwise remain quiet.
I can full well understand where Pete was trying to go but feel he had no need to tread so heavily to get there. It could be a long time before the tracks are gone.
Of course Jeff is easier prey than some. He is far more forgiving than me and Pete knew it.
I hope that as his writing career progresses Pete doesn't sell his soul when he makes the trade-offs that any good writer faces.
Good post James, but how about a shot of the leader fall?
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Chairman Meow
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Jul 10, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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Didn't get any shots of the fall. We do have it on video though. Was that Pete or Steve that had the video camera? I think it was Steve.
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