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nicolamartinez
Big Wall climber
Brazil
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Circle of death, fragile on the begining and lot´s of loose blocks inside of the wide crack.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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Hey, thanks everyone for all of your comments! I’m glad that you guys and gals have enjoyed this thread – it’s been fun! Looking at all of the photos here brings back some pretty cool memories.
It looks like the version of the Strange World topo that made it into the Obscurities does not show the two intermediate hauling stations on the slab between belay 1 and belay 4. We drilled two anchors on the slab for hauling so that we didn’t have to haul up that corner system. Aaron, did you use these hauling anchors or did you not know that they are there?
Cool pic, Nick! Something tells me that the Circle of Death pitch won’t be there forever… Looks gripping!
Aaron wrote:
“i went right and behind the hand. i bootied your nut on this pitch.”
“i bootied that nut, a river hanger, and a goofy KB painted purple with your initials on the secong pitch.”
Yeah, I remember leaving that nut. It was so steep there that once I unclipped from the nut, I had a hard time reaching back in to get it. So I said, “Screw it!” Turns out that both Singer and I paint our pins purple (Plum Safety Purple to be exact), thinking that no one else would ever paint their pins such a weird color. It’s worked so far…
The “Lawnmower Pitch” wasn’t running with water when I led it, but the “Ron Faucet” pitch sure was! But hey, that makes for a well-rounded route, right? Ya gotta have a little of everything…
Deathboy wrote:
“Is that whiskey in his bottle?”
Jake, you must be referring to the pic of Klaus nailing on pitch 10. No, I think it’s Gatorade or something similar. He had vodka on that route, which brings me to another short story…
On one of the pitches (can’t remember exactly which pitch) Klaus called down for some water. I decided to play a little trick on him and filled his water bottle about a quarter-full of vodka. “OK, you got it!” I yelled. He pulled up the bottle, unscrewed the cap, and started drinking.
“Hey, that’s not water!” he said… “But thanks anyway!” I laughed and then sent him some real water.
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aaronj
Big Wall climber
injured reserve
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yeah i hauled off those anchors. they were way more convenient than hauling the route which was low angle and blocky. i fixed to four and was gonna haul from the ground with ropes tied together and pass the knot but found those on the way down.
gnarly photos nick. how was the wideness? remember climbing the "death flake" labeled do not climb on the topo?
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nicolamartinez
Big Wall climber
Brazil
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Thank´s BLaw, I´m sure it won´t be there for so long. Nice comments on the thread. Aaron, the begining of the pitch, from what I remember was thin, i had a hard time having my placements to stick, then I got to the wide part, thought I was safe, I was wrong, the blocks are sitting inside of the crack, they are sharp, big and loose, I didn´t really want to fall they wuld for sure cut my lead line, had to back clean a bunch of placements cause I only had one #5 cam ( I´m glad my friend Nicolas Favresse let me borrow his ), this pitch was harder then the A5 pitch on my point of view. I remember I missed the bathook, the death flake was so expanding, but I made without the hook move... Scary... Hope you are doing good bro. I´ll be back soon. Nick
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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bump for a killer thread
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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First time through reading this, amazed I waited so long. Outstanding.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Mar 12, 2008 - 01:21am PT
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Super Bump....This is a Magic Wall..
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nicolamartinez
Big Wall climber
Brazil
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Hey Dave where are your photos, TR from House of Cards brotha. Hope you're doing good. Peace. N
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 30, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
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Found on rockclimbing.com:
House Of Cards -5.9 A4+
First Ascent: dave turner and matt meinzer
Type of Climb: Rock Aid
Safety Rating: X
Pitches: 15
Protection: hooks, beaks, pins, cams to #4, normal hard aid rack
Length (ft): 1700
Description:
splitting the middle of the headwall, this absurdly steep aid route was put in in may of 2006 by valley local dave t and sacramento resident matt m. it took ten days of difficult climbing to establish this route, which is located to the right of 'when hell was in session'. very clean route, with some heads up climbing that will be found high on the route. very commiting due to the steepness, retreat would be difficult.
Descent Options:
descend the back side of the wall, heading for the snake dike trail.
Submitted by: solodavet on 2007-04-01
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Yosemite_N..._Park/Porcelain_Wall/House_Of_Cards_84666.html
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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I read this several months back, and loved it, and it resurfaced again and am even more stoked about it after having done 3 routes on WC this summer and staring endlessly in awe of this thing! Bump this puppy!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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I like that XREZ North Dome view....What an awesome piece o' rock, eh?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 27, 2009 - 02:37am PT
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at the risk of pushing some other nice threads down the list... the weather is nice and a phone call this afternoon had me pacing and wanting to go to the Valley.
wallbump
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 19, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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since I saw a bump of another nice wall thread earlier
this one is a favorite thread, tho it looks like Klaus' pics have been shrunk by shutterfly
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Hey Dave, let's see a topo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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climbing content bump
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!