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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Dec 31, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
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Jaybro,
Tom dubbed it but it turned out too muddy to use. I'm sure there are recordings floating around the ether. If you file-share, try "soulseek". That's the most reliable hub for bootlegs, demos, and archived 7"s from an era before digital recording.
Just got back from JT. Had a blast. We should meet up at some point here in 08. I'll be working more 60 hour tomb rides and will be in dire need of a mental health holiday!
Take care,
VLG
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 31, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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I would have to say that my best day in climbing was the first day I was in Tuolumne this spring. Last labor day I got blown the F*** up. Some jack ass didn't cap some gas pipes and I was in the house when it blew up. I pretty much should have died, I got 3rd degree burns over 75% of my body. Head to toe. I worked my ass off, did rehab until I bled and cried. Nine months later I was back to full strength (almost). So June 5th, I linked up Unicorn, Cockscomb, 4 or 5 Echo peaks and Cathedral. I felt good and proud of myself. Now, 16 months later I am better than before. Surfing MUCH better than ever, and climbing as well as ever. Hell yeah!!!!
Patrick
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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you can get your own "i heart crack" shirt here...
http://www.cafepress.com/mojo.1602166
damn, that was from a while back!
very little climbing this year... though I did still manage to lead some 5.10 wayyyyyy off the couch.
climbing mostly now w/ skis on my back or attatched to feet.
hope the taco is holding up.
jason
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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holy smokes there's no way i can pick one. with my son: his first trad seconds at lovers leap on knapsack crack (okay, that's my pick if i'm forced) one day, then deception and pop bottle another. with stanford friends, a day at discovery wall at pinnacles, and day in the valley on easy routes. with internet partner finds, a spring trip up east buttress of middle cathedral complete with epic snowy pitch-black dropped-headlamp descent and a day up higher spire and reed's. with supertopos, great days with bluering and pal at church bowl and manure pile, and with crimpergirl at the base of el cap. perfect days, and yet i didn't climb nearly enough...
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Scooter? Pat what's happening man. All these names on supertopo I rarley know who's who. I heard from Jake that you got blow'd the f*#k up. It's good to hear your back in action. I got a new place in Bishop these days, bigger than the last. Drop me a line if you head this way.
How's Moss Landing? If you run in to neil young say hi for me. He'll have no idea who I am.
Tom
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10b4me
climber
1/2way between Yos and Moab
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making my first climbing trip to Indian Creek
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Best: Finding the first anchor for the rappel route down the backside of South Howser Tower. We had been getting pretty chilled on the Beckey-Chouinard, in cloudy/breezy conditions and without enough warm layers. We knew we didn't have enough warm gear to stop and survive the night. Once on the rap route, we were out of the wind and things felt in control again. It didn't matter that it was 1am by then. It didn't even matter much that my lead line got hung up on the second rap and we had to cut in in half. I just knew we were going to survive once we found that first rap station. We even felt comfy enough to tag the summit at that point!
Steph's TR: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/bugaboos2
Second best: getting past the pocket glacier slabs and onto the start of Slesse NE Buttress. We had been waiting for months for the pocket glacier to slide off so we could get onto that route safely. Once on it, we had all of a perfect day of weather to have fun on the route.
Steph's TR: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/slesse
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Crescent Arch.
I approached it with a sense of dread after hearing stories about it. It was the only time in '07 where I was nervous the night before about a climb.
But once I got on it, oh MAN!! I LOVED it. It was just so different than anything I'd done in Tuolumne in awhile, that it was just so invigorating. We did it in 2 1/2 pitches with a 70M rope. I had bad rope drag during the long first pitch (mainly around the rooves). But it was all good. No, great!!
Then during the underclinging on the next pitch, it was wet and mossy. And what a fun, wild traverse.
Favorite route I did in '07. The smile on my face at the end of the day was the widest I had in awhile.
Sometimes you come across a route where your memory of it will be one you look back on with a huge smile. For me, it's Crescent Arch.
PS - future edit, I'll upload the pics to share in this thread. Just gotta find the fle.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oh my gosh, how could I forget my best moment of climbing this [just past] year?!
In April, we had a lot of snow cover on the ground and it rained a lot. The rivers were swollen, so we decided to go out for our first paddle of the season. We were running an unfamiliar creek [in the summer it is only inches deep] thinking we were in the main channel, when suddenly the main channel entered. We were swept into four-foot-high haystacks, and my canoe immediately sank in the zero-degree-Celsius meltwater. I was kneeling on, not wearing, my life jacket. Suddenly I was fighting for my life in five-foot-deep five-mile-per-hour icewater! It's the closest I've come to death in a long time, possibly ever. Just before I lost consciousness, I somehow managed to climb out of the water onto the steep icy riverbank.
The canoe was stranded unreachable in the middle of the river. We went back for it the next day, and found it two miles downstream, completely destroyed. I paddled at least 10,000 miles in that canoe. {sigh}
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Jan 11, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
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From:James Mills [james@theoutdoorprofessional.com]
Subject:SNEWS® Live: Devils Tower climber Frank Sanders makes reporter's summit special
Hey there Frank,
I hope you're doing well and enjoying a terrific day. I just wanted to let you know that the story I produced on our climb this summer posted to our web site this afternoon. Give it a listen at: www.snewsnet.com
Let me know what you think.
Take care.
James
The Outdoor Professional, Inc.
James Edward Mills
Freelance Journalist/Independent Media Producer
6666 Odana Road #135 Madison, WI 53711
(608)236-0470
james@theoutdoorprofessional.com
http://www.theoutdoorprofessional.com
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crøtch
climber
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Jan 11, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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For me, topping out on Huayna Potosi. It was my first time above 6,000m. Also, getting Test Tube at Mt. Woodson (on TR). The first time I tried it several years ago, I couldn't get more than a move or two off the ground and wrote it off as impossible. At the Woodson shindig back in the spring, Grug convinced me to give it a go and I came off within a couple of moves of the top but felt like I might vomit. Back in the fall, I went back with a buddy and sent it and didn't even taste any bile. It's nice to be reminded that I can continue to improve, even when I'm not climbing as much as I used to.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 11, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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"didn't even taste any bile."
this is where my buddies tell me I have downgrade the problem then. :)
they're just jealous
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
ghost ride the cop car
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Jan 11, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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finally going to joshua tree. the campfire the night of the 30th was the best. that night i got in my sleeping bag and cried because i'd forgotten that people could be so cool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 11, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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That was pretty cool, Frank.
Not in 2007, but almost 30 yrs earlier Frank and I shared one of those moments (like I mentioned Roy commenting on @ SFIC.) at a bivy on the prow, looking across the way at halfdome, in the moon and starlight.
Another one with Frank in adifferent year's forgotten time (1984) was just after a dawn start on pitch six of Mescalito; one moment, it's the sun rising over halfdome, Peregrines diving, talking to us in their other worldly voices, me nursing a coffee jones, I'm belaying, Frank is exploring the Seagull... The rope pools in my lap, I yard in what I can, Frank flys into view, riding a fifty footer, "Jee-bus!"
We had some laughs about that one.
All the adventures I've had with Frank; 5 El cap routes, stacks of grade 5's, a new years day altered state ascent of figures on a landscape, FA's in Vedauwoo, Ski frolics and adventures of other sorts; I don't think we've ever climbed The Tower together, though we have run into each other on the summit more than once...
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 11, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
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Coming up for air after diving in the Merced after climbing Higher Cathedral Spire, and riding our bikes down the road in the waining sunset with the rocks a-fire with alpenglow. The perfect capper to a perfect day.
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