Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 04:55am PT
|
Finally, I figured out how to scan a slide. So, here are two magnificent 5.9 cracks at Tajo. They have probably less than a dozen ascents, and none in recent years. That's Dan C.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 10:40am PT
|
hey john, those things look familiar. i think i've done the one dan is on, and we just looked at the other one and shuddered. where are they?
on another note, about 400 yards north of camp, when you were heading out to deserado dome and that area, you'd pass a huge boxcar-shaped boulder. anybody done any problems on that thing yet? it was still untouched as of my last climbing trip down there ('84? '85?)
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
|
Dave, I'm actually in Newport, OR. Though I'll be down to Josh in spring. It'd great to see you again!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
|
Who's dragging me to the one on the right?
Bob, you were shuddering because, what, heartbreak
over not having enough time to do 'em both?
|
|
tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 06:48pm PT
|
looking at the one on the right might make you shudder, but once you overcome your initial reluctance, the face to the left of the crack offers great edges and knobs to help you move along, and the exit is superb. just one of many, many crags offering great CT crack.
|
|
John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
|
There was a feature article about the Giraffe in Climbing in the mid to late '90's. Eppi did the photos. The climbers were from Santa Barbara I think. Can anyone dig that up and give me the issue number? What did they say about the rating?
|
|
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
|
pretty sure I've led the crack Dan is doing - Roch Horton and Dan and I went there and Dan (I think) let me lead it.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2007 - 12:23am PT
|
This thing is a blast!
Moon, remember the summer of 'free' camping in the Meadows, '84 perhaps? I was there for 2 months, camp host never found us. The 'Lechlinski's' rolled thru (post Crag Whore) Bob freakin Camps was there for awhile, Even the fabled Eppi made an appearance. (I got an autograph)
I told Curly about this thread,I work for him,(don't go there), but he'll never sit still long enough to read it. Slander away, I can assure impunity.
Doug, thanks for the photos, especially Guy. Gotta find time to scan someday...
|
|
Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2007 - 12:33am PT
|
Ah Man
Guy pops into my head at the oddest times.
Hendricks songs, VW Vans with small square pop top….
Last time I saw Guy he was cooking, pop top down jamming to Hendricks. Hidden Valley RIP
|
|
Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2007 - 12:50am PT
|
I remember sitting on top after doing the Hooker. Waiting for the full moon to come up and light the way. Then it’s coming up shinning across Laguna Salada.
Showing us the way back down to camp.
Again the following weekend watching the sun rise from my down bag.
What a colideascope, all the colors blazing across the lake. Then the beauty giving way to two primary thoughts, I will never go on a wall again with out a ledge and we did not bring enough water.
To who ever left that can of chicken noodle soup on top Thanks.
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2007 - 01:41am PT
|
Days of the VW squareback as Baja vehicle. Dan Curley in 1978.
DanCo, Tom Scott, & Dale McCauley at base camp, 1979:
Left to Right: Tom Scott, Patti Watkins, Greg Epperson, Bob Ollerton.
Hacky Sack at base camp 1976.
Dan C. on our FA of "El Paseo Blanco" grade IV, .11+, south face of El Gran Trono Blanco (approx. 1990)
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2007 - 02:12am PT
|
DanCo drilling the hard way on our FA of "Guts to Open" .10a, 1977.
Werner Landry & Fred Beckey on top of El Gran Trono Blanco.
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
|
All the way back to the roots. I did an ST search and was amazed this hadn't been posted on a previous Trono thread. This was a prized issue for us when we went down there in 1981. Did some great bouldering and exploring in blue sky weather only to be snowed out two days later on Thanksgiving day when we were due to go up. Future sushifest....?
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2007 - 07:19pm PT
|
Thanks for the article Mimi. For those of you who don't recognize him, that last photo is our very own John Vawter.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2007 - 07:32pm PT
|
Cool Time Machine article! I remember doing it free but bypassing all the lower aid to get to the bivvy. Really wasn't the same route we thought afterwards as it took us hours instead of days.
|
|
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
|
classic pics everyone - great stuff.
|
|
matisse
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
|
holy crap john, I did not recognize you at all.
(However, I would not have recognized Bob Ollerton either.)
Sue
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2007 - 01:28am PT
|
I also remember being down there at the time of the FA...Tender age of 15. How about you guys? Werner, Dick, or John?
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2007 - 01:47am PT
|
Gary Anderson on our FA of "El Milenio" (The Millennium) Grade IV, 5.11b, May 1999.
Pitch #6, a .10c move off the belay ledge.
Pitch #5, 5.11 friction:
|
|
Gabe
climber
San Clemente, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2007 - 11:59am PT
|
My partner Kevin and I headed down into Baja a couple weeks back and had a great time.
It was surprising to see all the snow still on the ground. It didn’t melt for the 4 days we were there. I thought we were in Mexico!?
The dome we were camped behind.
Around our campsite.
We started hiking down the canyon toward Canon Tajo. Look at those corners! They looked to be about 500’ to the top where they arch out. I’d have to think they’ve been climbed. I want to check them out a bit more next time.
Down the canyon. There were some cool pools through here. And even icicles! Wow! Still a long way to go. Down in the palms we take a break. Kevin is as hard as nails! After all that hiking we only glimpsed the top of the throne(at least we think it was ;) still a ways away with the night coming fast we retreated back up the canyon for a burly bushwack through cactus, manzinita, and icy boulders.
We got back to camp just as the last bit of light receeded into the darkness.
Thanks for all of the great info people especially Deuce and T2!. Cheerz! Gabe
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!