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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Russ...email if you get the chance. I want to know how you hook up your system.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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bob ... call me right now! (number deleted)
EDIT: 11:42 now. Damn... missed the window of opportunity! I have 8 minutes of free time and offer it up and nothing! pffft! I'm off to bed. You can still call anytime though.... just Bob... not you other insomniac Eldo Prancers, deviants, and Russ boner clown acts.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Here is all you need;...keep it simple;.......all new climbers, gym climbers, n00bs, upstarts;...this is what you need......forget about the cams and hexes;...that's old school.....
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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here are some shots i dug up...
this is drilling the first of two bolts on math of the pastor on the whales back...
the very first bolt i ever drilled in jtree- obscure 5.9..
getting ready to drill off hooks on the outrage wall @ Potrero Chico..
stance drilling is the legacy of old school fa's and is becoming a lost art...
ks
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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because it's there
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Hey, Todd....The lawn chair is optional,right?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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bump
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Bryan, great thread. Got me to thinking about some of the stuff I saw this summer over on the North Apron. I am hanging on a fixed rope at each bolt for a long time. Lots of time resting when not pounding on the drill holder. Tring to imagine just how in the hell someone on lead placed the bolt. Thinking the reason they ran it out so far was simply because this was the first place they could stand, no hands, to drill. Some of that stuff just blew my mind. At one place ("Ticket to Nowhere" maybe) the leader broke two drill bits before he got the bolt in. Amazing!!! Come on you old farts, tell us the stories. You guys did some incredible stuff on some incredible rock and I for one, would sure like to hear what you have to say about it.
Roger Brown
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Up-thread there were some comments on SDS inserts blowing out of drill bits. Here is an example:
-n
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Hey Grossman, bet you have some good drill stance stories, I know you are not afraid to run with it.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Don't have any stance photos on the computer, but here's an old one drilling off a thin hook in Joshua Tree.
FA of Crimping Lessons - 5.11 on the South Astro Dome.
Back before power drills were made illegal to use there.
While much of my drilling is now done on rappel with a power drill, I still enjoy getting out on the sharp end with a hand drill when the area ethics dictate it. It's really hard to get the same adrenaline rush and sense of accomplishment when doing an FA in any other style.
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Doug Hemken
climber
Madison, WI
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Why would anyone claim that no one has any interest in drilling from stances anymore?
I've participated in establishing routes both ground up and top down. I get more satisfaction out of establishing routes ground up, but I think that just tells you what I enjoy about climbing.
"Old-school style ground-up runouts are seen more as ego statements than anything else - that's the main reason there's such lack of interest ...." But then, top down routes are ego statements, too. Establishing *any* new route requires looking at the rock and saying "I can do that!" And picking any style to do it in means deciding "this method of establishing this route seems right to me!"
I like doing things ground up because it pays dividends for (1) having a pretty precise knowledge of your own ability, in the moment, and (2) being able to read the rock well. For me there's nothing like getting to the top and saying to yourself "Yes, I am that strong! Yes, I do understand this rock!"
On this particular route, "Two Hoofers," I did not have the satisfaction of being quite that strong, but the crux did turn out to be where I suspected it was, and of the nature -polished small holds - that I thought it might be. We were well prepared for what we found, and that felt good.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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Yeah, Roger. No kidding. I don’t understand how some guys can drill while standing on almost nothing. It is truly amazing. How are the ribs doing? You OK? Will you be in Tuolumne next year? Greg and I have found some more work for you. :)
My most exciting moments this year have been on lead, trying to get to the next stance and get a bolt in without going for a ride. I don’t think there is anything else quite like it – the excitement of the unknown.
How fast have you guys been able to get a quarter-incher in, with a hand drill, from the time that the hammer starts swinging to the time that the bolt is clipped?
Yeah, Nick… that’s what happens to those things sooner or later. I’ve gotten so sick of the slow drill time with an SDS bit that I now use two drills for drilling out quarter-inch holes for replacement. The SDS bit is used to drill to the original depth of the quarter-inch hole and then I switch to a different drill with a HSS chisel-tip bit because it drills waaaay faster. A HSS bit doesn’t work for drilling out quarter-inch holes because it binds too much, but once the 3/8” hole is started…
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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BAHUMP!
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Minerals, thats a burly way to drill from a stance, changing the drill bits halfway through. I can think of a couple of the worst stances I have drilled from and couldn't imagine trying to change the bit. Granted I have the hand drill that uses the two allen set screws to hold the SDS bit.
I am guessing that you don't drill the entire 3/8" hole with the HSS bit because it gets dull too quick...yes? I am going to have to go over to the Fastenal store and see what they got. Be interesting to give your system a try. How do you sharpen and reuse the HSS bits?
Good to see this thread float to the top again. Thanks Munge!
-n
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Of Course, these are ALL old pictures taken back when bolting in the wilderness and/or electric drills were legal......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Daily musing...
Dance Stilling?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!