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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Alex spencer on duet Direct 8-27-07
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2007 - 09:29am PT
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Chiloe, my friend you have, each time you've posted photos, made me miss New Hampshire and its fine granite. I've made only one return trip since my return to California 22 years ago. I didn't climb when we had a house in Idylweis in the town of Madison but loved exploring the Whites. However on my return visit I did get to do many classics, a month of hanging around Conway was a blast. Keep the photos coming. Thanks James.
Well that's an encouraging note. Maybe this thread still has a ways to run. We've got new stuff by snakefoot, and tradman has come to the table with what I'd guess is a full deck of cards.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2007 - 09:38am PT
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I've done only the indoors kind of trip lately, taking off on yet another one tomorrow, so I've got no new stuff to offer.
In the spirit of L's thread about fashions in 1977, here's a late-fall scene on Vertigo that year. Fashion notes: leather-covered EBs, wool sweater and balaclava, nothin' but one set of hexes and one set of stoppers for gear.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Ya, we generaly place a wee bit more gear these days:)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
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Ya, we generaly place a wee bit more gear these days:)
Funny how the more stuff you have, the more you need. New things come along, latest fad for me is a couple of link cams, and I drift from "Who needs that?" to "Can't climb without 'em!"
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 10, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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This thread just keeps on a'comin'.
Thank you , thank you, y'all.
Zander
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 21, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
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Let the games begin:) Ice season cometh! thats me leading the 2nd pitch of EHG Smuglers notch VT yesterday.
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perswig
climber
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Nov 21, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
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Trad, we climb with lobster buoys on our haul loops here in Camden, but we're pretty close to the ocean; it's not impossible that we might fall in. What's your excuse?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 23, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Nice one. it's a belay jacket in a stuff sack:)
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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Nov 23, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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Gee the east coast really was a good as I remember. I barely remember the classics. Does anybody climb out on whites ledge any more?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 23, 2007 - 05:34pm PT
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Which Whites ledge?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 26, 2007 - 04:15pm PT
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Isa topping out on the Black Dike 11-25-07
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Me leading Blue Room, Smuggs, VT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
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Hey TMC, it's great to see somebody's still tough enough to be Northeastern climbing.
My ambition level has declined to the point where shoveling the driveway this morning felt like enough adventure.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Willoughby is in!! China shop is good to go! Run right up there and break trail:)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Isa at belay, Float like Butterfy land Like A Tomato WI4+
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Dec 12, 2007 - 09:33pm PT
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Let's see if a straight, lazy, cut and paste job works... from last weekend in the Dacks...
The start of Polar Soldier, 12/9/07. Note: The sign of a true local? They duct tape their gaitors to their legs.
Good,smart dogs keep warm and stay out of the way of falling ice.
Secrets of the Ice Age has a bit of tricky sidestepping to actually gain the column, as it basically has no ice at its top.
It's starting to look almost like ice season Sunday night when we all get in on the inaugural 18-hole game of Caps at the bivy. Instant classic!
Monday morning 12/10/07 finds Lions on the Beach fat and already stepped out.
The sun came out on Monday afternoon so we decided to run up RBF on the way home.
Boy, oh boy am I glad I didn't lead the first pitch. It was totally open and running to begin with.
Dripping deathcicles swayed overhead; every once in a while one would cut loose and punch through when it landed. The ice we were climbing was not super solid nor particularly frozen.
There was a nice tub at the top of the first pitch.
Soloing the middle bit, I punched through with hands/tools at least half a dozen times. No way I was going to lead the lest pitch either and good thing. My butt was puckering just belaying... The entire top was basically a thin rind of ice, and the final ten feet basically consisted of front pointing gingerly along the bubbles on the left wall of the cleft, a leeeaaaaan across the chasm to get a right handed stick in questionable ice (it took a few swings before a tool actually held rather than shattering the ice) and then a leap of faith across. Pretty spooky, even with a rope above me! I was too nervous to futz with getting a camera out. Interesting way to make foot holds though; you could kick through and then stand on the edge of the window.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2007 - 11:10am PT
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Aya, it's great to see that somebody's getting out and having adventures. Your photos reminded me of what I loved and feared about ice climbing, back when I was doing it often -- the wild cold places, surge of excitement leading, and terror that the whole icicle was gonna break off taking you and all your shiny gear with it!
Your doggy's got the drill figured out too, I'm glad to see.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2007 - 09:14am PT
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While Aya, Tradman and Wootles are still climbing proud, I suspect a few other Northeasterners (like me) have been more indoorsy of late. Long evenings make some time to scan old slides from Northeastern trips past, though.
Age 11, hiking down after a no-falls ascent of Arrow on his first trip to the Gunks:
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Not really a TR but still a recent outing.
Emac preparing to send his new mixed rig on Mt Willard in Crawford Notch, NH.
Dial M for Murder, WI4+, M8. Climbs up and out the overhanging rock and ice above upper Hitchcock Gully. A true 'mixed' line that has has about 50/50 proportion of rock and ice.
the avatar formerly known as wootles
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