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orbital

Sport climber

Canterbury, NZ

Nov 23, 2010 - 09:06pm PT

Hello,
This is a work in progress and was built for the whole family to enjoy. I've two young kids that climb everything and inside the second story is a playhouse (that will eventually have bunks). Currently lining out a bouldering cave and creating features to bolt onto the skin. Set up for some light climbing already and we found it was a good foot print for limited space. No room for an internal wall so it had to go outside and we figured it may as well be multi purpose. Given us a lot of enjoyment already and it isn't finished.

Enjoy.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Nov 23, 2010 - 09:12pm PT

is Phase two of Salad's wall complete?

telemon01

Trad climber

Montana

Nov 23, 2010 - 10:39pm PT

pcousar

Sport climber

White Salmon, WA

Nov 23, 2010 - 10:41pm PT

the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Feb 21, 2011 - 02:28pm PT

I want to build an outdoor wall at my new place. It would be cool if it could be climbed on either side, i.e. I could climb on a 70 degree angle (20 degree overhang) and the kids could climb on the 110 degree slab side.

We have LOTS of trees, it seems easiest to use them as support and go from there. Anyone anchored to trees without damaging them? I've seen how a ropes course does it, frame a box around the tree and keep it up with wooden pegs in the tree. Overkill?

the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Feb 21, 2011 - 11:00pm PT

This was posted before, but it's so cool.
http://www.techeblog.com/index.php/tech-gadget/excalibur-the-world-s-highest-climbing-wall

edejom

Boulder climber

Butte, America

Feb 22, 2011 - 12:06am PT

I've been putting this together for a bud:

Work in progress...

Orbital, that is a great idea--I might have to make one (similar, anyways) of those for myself:-)

the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Feb 23, 2011 - 01:53pm PT

edejom that looks fantastic. I like all the angles and two stories makes it way better IMO.

tolman_paul

Trad climber

Anchorage, AK

Aug 8, 2011 - 04:22pm PT

Bump

I need some motivation to put together a woody in the garage. The real puzzle is how to re-arrange my workbenches and storage shelves so I can still work on projects and have a training area. I'm thinking I'll have to go with wheeled workbench and storage, and just roll it out of the way when clmbing.

Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Aug 10, 2011 - 07:43pm PT

100 holds - most are two years old. Most have stainless steel bolts.

70 jugs + 30 small holds/lg. feet = $350

with the three sheets of 3/4 ply with stainless T-nuts = $400

Pretty much a one time investment for enough holds to keep you happy, period.

email me if you're interested. I live on the central coast, half-way between LA and SF so it'd make a fun road trip if you're up for it. Shipping will cost extra if I gotta mail them.
Three sheets worth, great for a circuit.

TheTye

Trad climber

Sacramento CA

Oct 22, 2013 - 12:08am PT

Just the beginning but super fun so far. Going to expand in the carport area and add crack and more roof crack.

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Oct 22, 2013 - 12:33am PT

Man this thread is bad ass

NutAgain!

Trad climber

South Pasadena, CA

Jan 15, 2014 - 04:30am PT

I have a plumbing leak repair project that involved ripping off soggy sheet rock on the ceiling, and needed to get up higher to isolate the problem. In lieu of getting the ladder, I started chimneying up the tiled shower to check it out, and the walls started flexing. It got me to thinking about how solid a back/feet or back/knee or armbar/squeeze chimney must be to not get loose or break from repeated use.

I've got a 22' vertical wall, 40' horizontal span for future climbing gym. It is 16" o.c. single 2x6 for the entire vertical distance, no reinforcements or shear paneling. Two stories of house sit on top of this! i.e. the future gym is currently a dangerous oversized cripple wall on a hillside home. I have immediate plans to shear panel it all for seismic safety, but trying to design in climbing features while the 2x6s are exposed, before its all covered uniformly in plywood.

Any advice?

Climbing desires: I was thinking simple vertical for bottom 8 feet, and 3 sections of overhangs e.g. 95, 105, 115 degrees for the top 14 feet, maybe with some left/right leaning of the overhang sections to spice it up. I was going to put a rolling door in the center, and have these type of overhanding walls symmetrically on either side so can have left or right leaning overhangs. In between sections I was thinking of some horizontal space to create offwidths and chimneys with uncomfortable angles (rather than straight vertical edged affairs). And I don't want to be chimneying up this stuff and have it pop off or break from me applying maximal pressure in back/feet chimney. So what kind of wood members are burly enough, and what kind of attachment to the 2x6 framing? Is it enough to just double up the existing 2x6 vertical studs wherever I want to attach a feature that will be pressed on within a chimney? It seems that if the chimney extends more than a couple of feet out from the point of attachment to the vertical wall, the torque from the forces of chimney will be gnarly at the joining to the vertical wall, mandating some supports at the chimney lip to hold things together. That would make top-ropes messier to manage, and falling/swinging out of it would be sketchier. So ideally a design that doesn't require chimney lip reinforcement would be nice.

Final consideration... I need to prioritize money on the shear paneling so we don't die in the next earthquake, probably don't have enough to build the climbing features now. Should I leave the original 2x6 studs exposed in places to facilitate future connections? But anything we leave expose lessens the effectiveness of the shear paneling. If we do 100% coverage of shear paneling, is it reasonable to later make cut-outs to access the underlying studs or is it better to just affix new structures to the shear paneling, which are attached to the studs?

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna die... I'd just like it to be much later and not because of inadequate seismic retrofitting on a hillside.

Thanks for input by structural engineers, wizened construction dudes, and armchair wannabees :)

Edit: Just felt 15 seconds of shaking! Here's a pic of our space. Below the wooden structure shown here, there is a perimeter concrete foundation, with loose rocky dirt slope presently for the floor:

climber

California dreamin' on the farside of the world..

Jan 15, 2014 - 10:41am PT

TheTye: Wow! Love the visuals with that wall!

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Feb 14, 2014 - 07:35pm PT

First step to one of my own:

17 holds, 12 footchips, 40 bucks out the door. Thanks you Pacific Edge! I tried to pick out hold that offered the most variety of faces, depending on how they're hung. I still need to get the nuts and bolts, but this should be a good start for the small area I have for this right now-a hanging lap under the stairs.