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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 04:58pm PT
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Senator Garrison, the Right Side of the Folly is still alive, although the first [long] 5.9 pitch is in the rock-fall zone.
Durn good climbin' ...
And speaking of Mr. Natural, make it .10d by climbing one of my fav's, the approach pitch called Dr. Feelgood!
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bob
climber
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Jan 28, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
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2nd crack pitch of Shambles. Really good crack climbing though it has a two bolt face finish. VERY good.
Bob J.
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Salathiel
Trad climber
South Beach, FL
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Jan 29, 2008 - 10:23am PT
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I thought mr natural was harder than 10c, but it may be because my size 13's don't fit in the narrow crack, so I was forced to smear. I watched Arno Ilgner down lead it when we realized our single 60 meter wouldn't get us to the next rap station. That was a fun day. I actually fell twice on the 5.8 section leading into mr natural, then dialed the rest...I was being towed of course.
Blur
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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The Wafer is 10c, always has been.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Bump as good climbing tread. This topic stimulate me to climb since I red it- many stelar Yosemite cracks ( few 10d I climbed before 2007 )
I put the routes in order from easiest to hardest as they appeared to me ( very subjective but it interesting to see other climbers views too) :
1.Serenity Crack (p3)
2.Lucky Streaks (p3)
3.Catchy
4.English Breakfast - 10c, but harder than Catchy and Serenity
5. 1-st pitch of Moratorium
6. Gold Dust
7. Manana
8. Independence Center p3 -10d
9. Lazy Bum
10. Book of Revelations, p1
11.The Thief
12. Five & Dime
13. Waverly Wafer ( 10c, but this is my place in 10d list)
14. Memo From Lloyd [TM]
15. Axis aka Blotto at Arch
16. 2nd pitch of Moratorium
17 . Ten Years After
18. Cramming
19.Ying Yang ( never led, TR only)
20. Steppin' Out ( never led, TR only)
21.Good Book (p3)
22. Rostrum 10d pitch (p5)
23. Mark of the Art
24. Lord Caffeine[TM] - this one the more you climb the easier become
25. Finger Lickin' ( this is felt like 11b for me. tried 4 times and never redpointed)
Not many left from the list ( never tried) : Little Wing, Vanishing Point, 1096, Simian sex, Olga's trick, Speed of life p1 [TM] , Final Exam and last pitch on Astroman
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Jack Burns
climber
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Pente
Scarface
Andrea's Waffle Hotline
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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east corner at the leap is appealing
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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The Wafer is 10c, always has been.
yep steve. that's what i thought every time i led it. might feel a bit easier on the tr.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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In honor of the upcoming Woodson shindig:
Digit's Delight
The Bat Crack
Jaws (might be .11a)
Left Long's Crack
and of course, at The Needles there's Gorilla Warfare. That one's great!
-Nick
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jaws? it's like .10b at most....
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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East Corner at the leap is good, the crux felt harder than .10d to me, but that's not unusual!
Forks: Torpedo and Loose Lips hover in that .10d-11a range and are fun climbs. I think the prow is .11a, dunno if I've seen it rated .10d. I'll look in my old orange Cheap Way to Fly at home.
Anyone mention Lizard Marmalade Direct on Mt. Lemmon? It's a crack in that Mt. Lemmon sort of way..
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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I forgot all about Olgas......and Karl thanks for the correction. I coundnt figure out how I had to fist jam Goldrush all those years when you danced up with stems!
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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I'll compromise with ya, Jaybro: Jaws is 'Vedauwoo .10b'
The 10's in Vedauwoo are definitely humbling...
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Byran
climber
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Rites of Spring near Bishop is my favorite 10d I can think of. Not really hard for the grade, but a must-do for anyone seeking good 5.10 crack climbing.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Hey Medusa - You really think that Heart of Darkness rig is .10d? I think the Indian Creek crowd would laugh at that rating...
I'd call it 5.9+. I mean, how much harder is it than Invisibilty lessons?
Granted it depends on your hand size but the thing is easy for me. Heck, Shock Therapy up in the same area is .10c and it is much harder...
Cheerio
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