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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Aug 12, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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I agree with Jingy. That aint holding nuthin.
Prod.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 12, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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O ye of little faith.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 12, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
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Great thread Roy, thanks to you for providing the real wheat amongst the chaff on this forum.
Maybe we should hook up for a new round of "theme climbs", we can leave behind the dresses and purses and go fully retro. Like South Crack in Robbins boots with threaded machine nuts or something. Then to address your worthy literary desires, we could repair to Tenaya beach for a poetry jam, attempting to resurrect the sometimes overblown style of our forebears. You can have the friction pitch, or we can ro-sham-bo. Saddle up and git on out here!
Peter
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2007 - 03:46pm PT
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hahaha!
Very well then Peter.
We ought to do something climberish at any rate.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
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Yet I'm not sure how far I want turn back the clock on this "Footwear of the Masters" thing:
From Master of Rock
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 12, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
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bob d'antonio:
Cool pictures Larry... here is a few more from that beautiful piece of stone.
Thanks, Bob. You guys danced up in much finer style than we could imagine, back in '71.
Tarbuster:
Yet I'm not sure how far I want turn back the clock on this "Footwear of the Masters" thing:
Molitors, you say? That sounds right. Here's Paul, the well-dressed alpine wall climber, racking up for the Eye of Mordor pitch.
Early morning sun on Obviously Four Believers.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 12, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
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Prod,
Not aware of any rib joint, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. And, as far as that cam not holding anything... it doesn't need to there, as that's somewhere around vertical 5.5, maybe 5.6 if you want to stretch it a little, very easy, much in keeping with the joyful experience of the upper Grand Giraffe. You won't fall there, if you've made it that far.
Roy,
The RDs were not "probably" better than EBs, they were substantially better in all aspects. I did that difficult route on the boulders in Yosemite (some call it the Ament Face), with RDs, 1968. Of course, as with all those earlier shoes, you had to break them in just right. Kronhoeffers, for example, were quite bad at first, until you wore down the initial rubber a bit. Higgins always used Kronhoeffers, with a little epoxy placed along the inside (edging side) of the soft uppers to give them stiffness. Cortina's, Kamps' favorite, and often used by Pratt, were really good edging shoes, though Spiders (Royal's favorite, for a time) were great edging shoes -- after you wore them down a bit. The original climbing shoes around Boulder were Keds (basketball shoes). Have you seen that photo where I'm doing the Crack of Fear with a Kronhoeffer on the left foot and Cortina on the right? Strategy.
Chiloe,
That photo of Sibley on top is great, makes me want to go climbing in the Park again... those great, beautiful clouds...
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Aug 12, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Larry wrote:Thanks, Bob. You guys danced up in much finer style than we could imagine, back in '71.
No Larry...thank you. That's the year I started climbing...you guys were my heroes.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Aug 12, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
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What a great thread. I keep coming back for more. This is the best fore-shadowing ever!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:40am PT
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Starting up towards the Eye of Mordor. Mountain boots, tied etriers and 1/4" hero loops,
hammers & pitons, wool for warmth (and there's sure no Goretex or Fiberfill in the haul bag)....
For that matter it's worth mentioning that all these slides were shot on a small camera that
had no light meter or rangefinder. I just guessed things were 20' away, figured "sunlight = 1/100 at f16"
and fired away. Which accounts for the sometimes unsharp and underexposed results, but at least they exist.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 13, 2007 - 11:50am PT
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Tarbuster, Chiloe, you should get Roos and Sibley and come visit me in Fruita. I'll show you some good secret climbing places I've discovered, a couple of new routes we could try, where we could have some fun in the sun and laugh about old times. One or two good restaurants out here too. If you come in the summer, I have a swimming pool in my backyard to cool down...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 13, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
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Pat, I'm a right-coaster nowadays, but I'm sure Tarbuster can pass along your invite to the Boulder folks.
Incidentally, while on the topic of early-70s nailups, Eldorado's long-gone aid routes might make for an interesting thread or at least a few posts some day. Kor's old routes and some of yours like Centaur or Temporary Like Achilles were great fun in their day ... I think we did some early repeats.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
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Chiloe:
So you're saying back in the olden days, not only was the climbing gear very basic, but also the camera equipment? Well, your pictures have a lot of soul and sometimes you need basic to capture soul.
Oli:
Thanks for the concise review of the Klettershoe styles!
I'll get in contact with Paul and Billy and see what's up; I have been wanting to organize a little get together.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
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Hard climbing in Klettershoes:
Oli,
What can you tell us about Larry Dalke?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 13, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
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The Eye of Mordor
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 01:46pm PT
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The all seeing all-knowing eye...
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Aug 13, 2007 - 03:40pm PT
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Chiloe,
Those are some really cool pics. I especially like the one with the climber at the base of the eye. Approx, how tall is that cliff? As well as steep?
Roy,
Time Bandits?
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 04:05pm PT
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The evil Lord Sauron, Eye of Mordor, Middle Earth, Lord of the Rings, Tolkein...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 13, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
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Approx, how tall is that cliff? As well as steep?
It's something like 800 feet tall. Not super steep, averaging maybe 70 degrees? One of the best faces in RMNP, though.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 13, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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I took the odd leads and Paul got the even. Here he is looking up at pitch 4, the sun straight overhead and about to leave the wall.
Everyone who's climbed in the high country knows that moment.
Pagoda Mountain in the background.
That afternoon, starting up pitch 6. The skies weren't so blue anymore.
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