A Thread for 5.8

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Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Oct 10, 2009 - 01:08am PT

Man, that was fun! More pictures!

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Oct 11, 2009 - 04:21am PT

Did a "previously unreported " climb today;...Starrbonne (5.8)......it was a very good climb, a beautiful day, with a great view on cool rock....This picture was taken at about 5:00 this evening....Joshua Tree, Ca.

the museum

Trad climber

Rapid City

Oct 11, 2009 - 10:52am PT

McCarthy N face P1. Sorry if posted previously..

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Nov 17, 2009 - 04:08pm PT

Gentlemen,

I need to put you attention to the first picture and TR on this thread: Chiloe's and my visit to Kullen in Sweden more than two years ago. Which promted several of you to question the safety of Chiloe, climbing as he apperantly was on a 20+ years rope...

Ofcause he wasn't! It was maybe three years old (but - ok - of questionable east european quality). Anyway, Wootles promised me a new Sterling. And he kept his word! Chiloe visited me in Copenhagen yesterday, and brought with him a nice, strong and unique Sterling rope. Wouw, I didn't deserve that!

The old rope HAS been cut up (so I can use it on plastic walls...), and this new one will be put to good use on slimy wet, green, loose and cold Kullen next weekend. Looking forward to that.

Thanks again, Wootles!

Chiloe, show us the picture!

Michael

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT

OK, Michael, let's update the story! The original rope in question appeared in this photo that
Michael took in Kullen, Sweden ("the best climbing in Denmark!") back about 2 years ago.

Seeing this photo, the avatar formerly known as wootles remarked,
You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.

Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:07pm PT

Michael replied with an old black and white photo,

Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.

Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness
and EBs have been dumped, though

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:08pm PT

This caused wootles to respond,

There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo
of the old rope cut to pieces.

This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.

I think Michael still suspected he was being trolled.

slabbo

Trad climber

fort garland, colo

Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT

DUDE ! That route will never make it on to 8a ! Furry ropes are way good, easier to grip.

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT

Woups, 25 years! Did I write that?!
What a cheeky bastard I was. Sorry!

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:15pm PT

Intentions were good, but for a long time nothing came of this banter. Events did not line
up favorably for a transatlantic rope-toss.

Then, a couple of weeks ago, I went climbing at Whitehorse with wootles (who has since
changed his name).

I mentioned that I would be passing through Michael's town soon, and could drop off a rope if
wootles still wanted to follow through on that old SuperTopo thread.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:19pm PT

And so it happened that, although the closest I got to climbing on this trip was a nice view
from the 21st floor,

I did get invited over for dinner with Michael's family and also astrange, on the right here,
who together with Michael comprises the Danish chapter of SuperTopo.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:21pm PT

And Michael now owns a prototype Sterling rope, only 2 of its kind in the world so I'm told.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:22pm PT

Which might be overkill for those Kullen belays!

richross

Trad climber

Nov 17, 2009 - 05:28pm PT

Me taking it down a notch to 5.7.

Mt. Desert Island,Maine 1985.

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Nov 17, 2009 - 05:34pm PT

Split Decision 5.8+
Wandering Bovine 5.8

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Nov 17, 2009 - 05:34pm PT

Thanks for the full round up, Larry!

Just a slight drift:
Two remarks to your nice picture of Copenhagen:
1: The great building on the left will (hopefully) soon be turned into one of the highest indoor climbing walls in Europe.

2: Went up the spiral stairs on that central tower (Frelser Kirke) with my girls a few months ago. Youngest takes no notice of the 60+ meter above the streets; the other begging me to take them down again.