Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bob
climber
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2007 - 09:19pm PT
|
Nice Werner! I agree. I've also heard you have three testicles as well, no?
Bob J.
|
|
James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 02:25am PT
|
Bump
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 03:18am PT
|
John wrote
"I think I've done it three times - once with Yerian, once with Moffatt, and once with Dave Shultz (only the first three pitches though with Dave - we replaced the bolts on that one). "
John's always been forthright in saying he considered the route 5.11 A0. Somebody told me once that on the first ascent he used hooks to hang on in places besides the drill stances. (not saying that's wrong, right, factual or whatever)
Makes me wonder though, after all the (justified) hero worship about John and (maybe justified) hero worship about this route. Has John ever led the whole route with no hangs?
Me, I'm not worthy to even TR it.
Peace
Karl
|
|
That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!
Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 09:25am PT
|
Great Post. My hands are sweating just reading it.
Glad to see the B-Y still stands the test of time.!!!!!!!
PJ
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 10:06am PT
|
I just "shat" myself...
|
|
Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 11:55am PT
|
Wow. Beautiful thread.
Sweaty hands.
TC
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
|
Amazing route.
For me, it has everything I want in a classic route:
1) Unique historical significance
2) Quality, sustained climbing
3) Limited enough protection options to keep things exciting and to engage my mind as well as my body
4) Enough of a reputation in the climbing community to give it a spot on most lifetime tick lists.
I held off for a while before climbing it. When I finally decided it was time, I spent a week in the Meadows climbing similar features to get myself feeling more than solid. When I finally got on the route, it didn't seem too bad at all. The runouts are there, sure, but the climbing is secure enough and there are enough features to where you probably would never fall as long as you were in the right mind set.
Is the route worthy of its reputation? I think so. JB went up and made a statement; one that probably needed to be made at the time. The resulting route has provided many climbers (myself included) something to strive towards; a trophy of sorts. The climbing itself is not a whole lot different than that found on the neighboring, better-protected routes, but in many ways this route seems far more rewarding in my opinion.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
|
How long have you had those Walley? What other gems have you been holding back from us? Man those are cool!
Prod.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
|
What a beautiful thread.
Always just out of my reach, head wise, pump wise, ballz wize...whatever.
What happened to this guys attempt to do it with just hooks and slung knobs??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcg5arcKDCo
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
|
One of those rare climbs that doesn't depreciate with the years, kind of like a vintage car. Will give many "5.14" climbers pause.
|
|
midarockjock
climber
USA
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
|
Great photos.
Yes I watched world class climbers all pitch at
5.12(c)-(d) on the competitions artificial wall
with bolts a few feet apart.
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
|
I went up on it once. I was so scared that I couldn't even get up the first pitch! I made a deal with Schnider that I'd pay him to take me up it! Never did though.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
|
The Bachar Yerian is like.......
The 13th hole at Augusta.....
The Corkscrew at Laguna Seca.....
The Green Monster at Fenway....
Jaws at Waimeia....
Mach 1 for the first time....
Many more I'm sure....add on here if you get my drift.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
|
Walter,
(copied from Walter's post so it's still visible on this page of the thread)
Wow - those FA photos!! Thanks to John and everyone involved for sharing those. With the lighting just as Steve described in his telling of the FA.
Karl,
> Makes me wonder though, after all the (justified) hero worship about John and (maybe justified) hero worship about this route. Has John ever led the whole route with no hangs?
Well, he has at least led the first 2 pitches with no hangs. As for the upper ones, most likely he has - he may not have needed the hooks to drill the bolts on those, plus he went back twice so I bet he led those free if he hadn't before. In Steve Schneider's detailed story of the FA which I transcribed on the second page of this thread, John and Dave did not complete the FA on the first day. They went back another day, and John reled p1 and p2 before establishing the upper pitches.
But this is rather trivial compared to the adventure of establishing the route ground up, not knowing if there would be good places to use those hooks.
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
|
Just for the record - I've led the entire thing 3 times with no falls or hangs ( including the day I did the first ascent). Only 4 of the 13 bolts were placed with hooks.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
|
Hello?
Anybody got any idea about my previous question? John?
What happened to this guys attempt to do it with just hooks and slung knobs??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcg5arcKDCo
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
|
Survival,
Yes Georg Ullrich finally did it without the 2 bolts on the first and without the 3 bolts on the second and without the 1st bolt on the third. He clipped the last bolt on the third and used the two 3 bolt belay stations (not sure on that - he could have only used two bolts at the belay and not clipped the upper third bolt at each).
Nevertheless a bold effort even though he had previously done the route twice using all the bolts.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
|
John wrote
"Just for the record - I've led the entire thing 3 times with no falls or hangs ( including the day I did the first ascent). Only 4 of the 13 bolts were placed with hooks."
Thanks. I guess that means the drilling from hooks was all on the day before the first ascent. I had thought from your previous post that you hadn't done the entire route three times and I didn't know if Moffat or Shultz led any pitches. When you wrote
"I think I've done it three times - once with Yerian, once with Moffatt, and once with Dave Shultz (only the first three pitches though with Dave - we replaced the bolts on that one)."
Just so I can put my friend in his place, you're saying you didn't hang on hooks at any point except to drill right?
Peace
Karl
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
|
Thanks John,
I was sure you'd know. I guess I wasn't aware that he had done it before either.
Like you said, big job nonetheless!
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2009 - 12:30am PT
|
Jeepers Karl, just go up and climb the thing....
Or get a copy of Alpinist 26 and read all about it.
Edit: Yes Karl, I only did the first three with Shultz so to be clear I've only done the entire route twice. Hooks were only used to place those 4 bolts mentioned. Sorry for all the confusion. My article in Alpinist 26 describes in detail the first ascent - on the third day I redpointed the first two and on sight flashed the third and continued to the top.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!