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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 12, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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I'm going to go to Yosemite one of these years, I hope.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Definitely not the Good Book.
This means you've never been to Yosemite .... :-)
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Mar 13, 2012 - 04:20am PT
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I did it a cpl of times BITD
Once with J. Rutt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ok so Bus' out, who's got the skinny?
I want to hear a recount of Yabo's solo, peal/recovery !
Werner ?
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Mar 13, 2012 - 04:59am PT
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Thanks Warbler. I'll delete the post now as it has nothing to do with the thread. I do remember climbing GB in 1980 and finding the offwidth (last?) pitch the hardest. So what part of the route has fallen down?
That photo of all in jim's just above is fabulous...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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great thread with some great images
here's a low resolution image of The Folly that's tweaked up to be contrasty and revealing...
of course Good Book is the right facing corner on the right, mostly in the shadows, the picture also shows the infamous Wild Thing pretty well...
you should always take note of the vegetation around the base of the cliffs, if there isn't any it's usually from gravitational pruning...
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Mar 13, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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Great pic Ed - do you know where the line of Wild Thing is in that photo? Looks kind of discontinuous to the left of Good Book
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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Just step out left and you'll find it David.
I just went that way and it became obvious once out there and around the corner.
Go for it .....
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Mar 13, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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you end up in some crazy cave on wild thing - right Werner? Dave Altman has always told me it's a must do
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 14, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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Wild Thing, I'm sure you've looked in the guidebook already...
step left off the ledge with the visible stacked blocks at the base of The Good Book corner, onto the face and over to a vertical crack.
That goes up to a big square-ish block, tunnel through to the left side of that block and up the cracks that form the upper left side of The Folly on the Left Side route upper pitches.
I'm skeptical that Left Side would go free for someone like me... it's aid from the top of that big flake laying at the base on the lower left to the point where Wild Thing intercepts it...
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peter croft
climber
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Mar 14, 2012 - 09:45am PT
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Kevin, you sure got in on some good ones. As well the route names you picked were so perfectly matched with the climbs that they quickly rose to world famous-ness. Living in Canada I never had to explain to other climbers where the Crucifix or the Good Book was.
Anyway, my "special" time on the Good book started late one day in the Camp 4 lot when my friends were trying to decide between dinner and the bar. I was thinking climbing but it was late in the day. Like you said, Kevin, the Good Book looks over the campground and it didn't take me long to make the choice.
So I grab my shoes and run down there, look up and...Perfect! no one on the route. Deep in the shade the temps are perfect and the splitter cracks glide by. Man, this is so cool! I get up to the off width (the so-called easy pitch) and even that is fun. I grab the summit spike, straddle it and look out across the Valley listening to the swifts.
I can't wait long though 'cause the sun's left the Valley floor a long time ago. I launch down into the off width (always been lousy at the OWs) and start cuddling. 40 feet down my left knee gets stuck - kinda funny at first. After 5 minutes it's not funny at all and after 15 minutes I'm contemplating bivi-ing off my knee - it simply will not budge.
Finally I figure out that I need to try move up a body length or two. After spazz-ing around for a few more minutes I was able to do this, pull the leg out and continue down, this time with my knee definitely outside the crack.
By this time the lower corners have gone into gloom but thank goodness there's no fancy foot work and nothing is nearly as hard as the easiest pitch on the route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 14, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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Great story Peter!
How to get the most out of a route...LOL
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bob
climber
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Damn Peter. That sounds so nutty to me. You even write casually about it!
Bob J.
PS JUST NUTTY!!!!
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Double D
climber
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Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 24, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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A few friends went up and did this over the weekend. They reported that there was fresh shrubbery growing in the crux pitch and the first pitch resembled a waterfall. Guess it might be a little while before it dries out.
FYI!
Luke
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 24, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...
At this point in my life, up-climbing that lieback would start me trembling!
John
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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I remember being up there with Ron Fawcett who had a 250 foot 9mm rope and we took turns climbing up and down the lyback pitch with a top rope. You could really get the burn on.
Tobin or someone also did a hard face thing around there I vaguely remember. like a direct start or something. Had some hard crimping on it as I recall. Man, that was like 2,000 years ago . . .
JL
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dustonian
climber
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May 24, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Did this route during a short trip last week... super bitchin! Definitely worried about rockfall so tried to move fairly quickly on the hike in & out. Route itself feels fairly sheltered except for the first pitch, which is still pretty blocky and loose. Rest of the climbing is spectacular!
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