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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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I think people get confused between "offwith" and "squeeze". If u can get any part of your body in the crack, it's a squeeze. Otherwise, it's a offwith. If you are chicken winging, it's definetly a squeeze. At least that's what Pat Ament told me when i was younger.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Definitions are guidelines. By that definition a finger crack is a squeeze.
Disagree about the chicken wing thing too. There are places you can chickwing where you can't get your trunk in. It's not a squeeze till all parts are enveloped.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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Great shots, Tom! Illustrates Jaybro's points from the post above (with which I agree, by the way).
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nice sequence TK, really shows the varying stages of physical agony needed to surmount the climb.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Turning around is always so much fun!
Oh damn, I got what I wanted...
3rd guess?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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That is so cool!! can't beat the full (1/2?) pirouette!
I'm gonna have to raise me some dental floss!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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That's a purty fancy word you got there Jay...
He did start left side in, so I guess it was, in fact, a full...
Montana is waiting for you Jay ;)
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lemon_boy
climber
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yo cuckwalla,
can you be a bit more specific? i have climbed quite a bit throughout the canyon.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Lemon_boy The route is probably 2-2.5 miles past the cabin on the west/right hand wall. Past the PROW area and you park at the bottom of a drainage and hike up the drainage. There are no other climbs up there except for this one. A guy that has been doing some developing out there, Kent Pease, showed it to me. He also did the FA. Next time I’m out there I’ll take a picture of it.
Cheers,
Jesse
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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my left shoulder is feeling better and started flexing while I was looking at these pictures... the call of the wide?
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lemon_boy
climber
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cuckawalla,
yeah, i've climbed with the sender quite a bit out there. i think you are talking about a route called 'amplitude'. i have a picture of it, i will email it to you at your address listed on this website. it starts off through a short bit of slight looseness, then quickly transitions into a perfect #4 camalot splitter, then out a big splitter roof that is 4.5 to 5 camalot (but it is wierd and wavy inside, more like a granite crack, which makes it harder to shuffle through), then it goes up into a squeeze. sorry about the long sentence.
just to the left is a splitter finger to thin hands crack that goes big hands to fists through the left side of the roof and ends up at the same anchors.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Thats the Route. Sender is always down there in the summer, most times by himself.
Drop me a line if you are ever going down there.
Jesse.
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deerpit
climber
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Cool pics everybody. Thanks! I just got registered onto the site yesterday, so maybe I'll try and figure out how to post some photos of my own. I might have a couple of pics of some fatties (cracks that is) laying around. Hey Lemon Boy - I'm guessing your someone I've roped up for the wide ones a good bit?
dean
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lemon_boy
climber
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here's a shot of satan's personal trainer getting ready to do the triple alternating levitation gig to get through the roof of 'amplitude'. he's warming up on the 4 camalot splitter leading into it. on one of his attempts he took an enormous upside down fall and smashed into the wall below the roof.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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You got a nice shot there, lemon_boy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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"smashed", love it. is the one to the left good too?
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