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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Neat thread. Heh, so you need a power drill for "power removal" in certain cases...
SG, very interesting tools and "future system". I hate some ring anchors as they have no place to clip save for the ring---bad for more than one party.
Way back machine...like the 90's?
He placed pine pitch on a pair of moccasins for that ascent....now that's some valley lore...thx Chicken Skinner.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Thanks Steve, that makes sense. Just cut the stupid thing off and stuff it back down it's own hole and fill. Will do.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2007 - 12:04am PT
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Yup, sometimes push and patch is as good as it gets. Redrilling the hole is optimal but making the last one disappear works fine too. The day that I spent chopping and patching several Petzl bolts on a 5.7 route(on Hitchcock Rock at Windy Point in Tucson) was probably the least enjoyable day out ever for me. There is no such thing as a bolt that can't be removed, its just a question of residual damage. The bolt crazed idiot Ben Burnham thought his bolts couldn't be chopped in this case either. Dead wrong........
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2007 - 04:35pm PT
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Another tip for removing the Petzl monsters. Use the bolt hanger as a wear shield and make sure to drop your cutting wheel all the way through the hanger depth to just shy of the rock surface. This makes releasing the hanger from the first round of the metal nibbling much easier.
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Solo
climber
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Mar 12, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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I have removed several Petzl Longlife bolts by drilling out the center pin. Once the pin is gone, the springy metal pop back to its original shape, and can usually be easily pulled out of the hole.
Good luck!
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 12, 2007 - 06:09pm PT
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The Petzl Longlife bolts are usually fairly easy to remove. You start by driving a bugaboo pin under the hanger and then move up to a thick Lost Arrow. The pin usually pops back out of the center after a few minutes of work. Once the pin is loose you can use a claw hammer to remove the actual bolt. Not the best bolt for soft rock.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Mar 12, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
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Hey Kevin, bring your tools up to Courtwright with us this summer and lets tear some bolts out!
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Mar 12, 2007 - 09:29pm PT
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Fun to see old bolts. Having placed many in the day, I was trying to remember what was the LONGEST time any bolt took to place. I recall a funny climb with Pat Ament where we placed a bolt by pounding the drill with a rock because, of course, we forgot the hammer! Think it took about an hour. Maybe it is still there on "Soarks," somewhere on the backside of the Flatirons, CO.
Then there were a couple of 3/8” guys placed on "Shake and Bake," Balconies Pinnacles National Monument. The thing was so steep it was very hard to start drilling without tipping over backwards. With all the gentle hammer tapping to start, seems like a couple of bolts took 45 minutes or so. Vandiver might remember better than I do. I know my toes were numb for days ...
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 13, 2007 - 07:12am PT
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Geeze, Tom, a rock? Funny.
I can envision you and Pat as those Geico ad guys—erudite patter punctuated by primitive tools. Deadpan bemused looks facing camera.
Roger
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 13, 2007 - 10:13am PT
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Maybe 10 years old?
Warm salty environment + limestone + stainless-clad steel = less than body-weight strength, pretty fast
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Apr 15, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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A Nice Anchor we Found at the Top of Flora Dora In Unaweep. Good ol Chain. The chain was just pounded into the crack. All Sorta brought together with some mank webbing. Bomber! Another station has a hole all the way through a rock, more chain poked through and brought together for a rap station. Seems like a lot of work hauling up that much chain. Hmm.. Screwing the Second.
Jesse
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Sitting here working on the list of what got accomplished this season and during a break in the action I saw this post. I am going to try to post a photo from this season.
This is the first time I have tried this :-)
This is an off route bolt that was placed on the first attempt on the route known as Snake Dike.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Late 1950's/ early 60's era Longware hanger. Eric Beck must have placed that bolt and I bet that there is a story waiting. Where was the bolt with respect to the established line?
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sethsquatch76
Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
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when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous......
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Steve,
That was the first bolt on the route now known as Snake Dance. The first bolt on Eye in the Sky was also much older than the other bolts and was found to be a bit lower and further to the right than that shown on the topo. I would guess that it was also an early Snake Dike bolt. Maybe Eric, Jim, or Chris will tell us the story.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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From Steve Roper's nice description of Snake Dike in the Supertopo Yosemite Valley Free Climbs guidebook:
Years later, Beck reminisced about their climb.
"We were expecting a much harder route and only had twelve bolts,
so we did our best to conserve them where the climbing was easy.
What I really imagined happening was that we would get up a few pitches,
fix the ropes, and return with more bolts.
Also, our original choice of line was to follow a dike leading up and right on Pitch 3.
This was Bridwell's lead and he climbed up about 20 feet,
got in a bolt, but didn't like it.
This caused more uncertainty about routefinding and wasting our bolts.
I then gained the lead and had a look to the left.
This proved to be the best way.
-----
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cowpoke
climber
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Rapping over Problem Child (10d R, Whitehorse Ledge) a few weeks ago, I wondered what the retreat story might have been.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Shipoopi and I did the South Face of Watkins in 1978 or 1979. I led the 3rd(?) pitch to a ledge with one 1/4" bolt, and where you could get some additional gear for the belay. Steve jugged the pitch while I hauled (on the bolt - I don't recall knowing anything about equalizing anchors back then), then he led the next pitch. When I unclipped from the bolt to jug and clean the next pitch it literally fell out in my hands - it was broken about half way through. I still have the original hanger, but lost the bolt over the years.
Paul
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