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FredC
Gym climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jan 15, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
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The "Edge Direct" at Indian Rock.
I could do this for many years. For someone my height it had a pretty hard pull that led to about three very slow-motion balance creepy moves.
In the years I did the route I think I fell from every move.
At one point you placed both palms on the rock and you had just about exactly the right amount of friction to move gently right to a stable place...or you slid off sideways.
It always felt like weight lifting turning into Tai Chi.
It was not the hardest thing I could do but it was by far the most subtle and interesting.
The problem was invented by Peter Haan and Chris Vandiver. When they did the route I was probably about 16 and I had to wait a few years until I was tall enough to get it. I think I managed it last in about 2003.
Fred
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Friend
climber
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Jan 15, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
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Thanks Rob, Ryan, Adam and everyone else. Keeping the stoke high.
Ryan that video was sick. The only time I went to Squamish was way before it was a bouldering hot spot. Need to go back. The chick singing So F*#king easy was a nice bonus too!!
One of my favorites. A bucket list problem for sure, Cracker Boy
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 15, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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Stoked on everybody who's posted on this thread...
and all those who haven't, if you catch my drift.
Thanks for starting a good pure climbing thread RyanD.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jan 15, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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The only thing I have on my computer now is this
The Island lieback, "In the Picture" at Rubidoux
Looks pretty easy
Here is Paul Parker at the start of maybe the best Problem (my pick) at Rubidoux
"Overexposed"
But he is at the bottom of the crux, he needs to go straight up on some sparse holds way above him in this photo, so who knows what happened after this photo was taken
Hope you don't mind me using your photo PP.
Is there any historical FA info on the FA of Overexposed?
if you go left, you are on the lieback
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jan 15, 2016 - 06:31pm PT
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I forgot what's going on here
wearing a stupid Cowboy Hat!!!???!111111116666666
who does this guy think he is? John Wayne?
here is another unknown photo
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
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Craig, that's ^^^^^^^ Picture Perfect V1
Don't know who the climber is.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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And, in the same area, there's always Teflon:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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that Teflon slab looks pretty easy Robs
how are those holds, hey look huge with all that chalk
jefe
V1, must be a super easy flash
just reach up and grab that jug
vvv
back editing is discouraged???
I blame the Honey Bear
And he says I can back edit all I want
In fact, It's mandatory
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 15, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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it was.
it's the repeat that's the bitch lol!
good times Honey Bear.
Edit: bro, you're on a climbing thread now...
back editing is discouraged ;-)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 15, 2016 - 09:15pm PT
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Great pics and thread.
Friend you have some awesome shots.
Ryan, great video man. Had to watch the Matthes Crest vid again too.
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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2016 - 10:25pm PT
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Thanks Justin, iron chef awaits a second :)
my lord... rmuir and Craig fry have been trolled here now. If splitter chimes in with that banana traverse challenge and that john gill dude shows up my supertopo career will be complete!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 16, 2016 - 07:50am PT
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A lot less chalk on this problem, Craig…
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jan 16, 2016 - 08:20am PT
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Robs, Those holds look like greased bowling balls
I've been there, there's a good reason for the lack of chalk
Of course I was jiving you about Teflon, those chalked holds are not for the noobies
and the foot holds!! way micro
Me and Spencer went up there last year and we could barely get off the ground. But were retired climbers, so no worries.
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Friend
climber
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Jan 16, 2016 - 08:24am PT
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So cool Robs ^^^
I just watched your gif.. Link was "malicious" according to my work pc yesterday.
You can't really see the landing. Isn't it pretty much instant ass over teakettle down the hillside if you blow it? It's prouder than it looks in the gif I think.
I think In The Picture is my favorite.. Probably cause Overexposed is too hard for me!
Edit, Craig I remember having your In The picture photo sequence in my mind the first time I went there to boulder.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 16, 2016 - 08:49am PT
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Excuse the lycra, I used to MTB to the spot after work.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jan 16, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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Todd Battey showed me the beta on Overexposed
You got to do a double reach off the bottom good hold
with you left hand, you grab an in between hold, and then move that hand up dynamically to the good hold at the top
After I finally did it, it wasn't that hard
I'm still interested on the early history of this problem
Robs? know anything
Me, Dave and Rob Stahl did the very first complete traverse of the Baby Apes wall. There was no chalk on the far right hand end for the first 15 feet. Good times, 1988 ish?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 16, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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Stahlbro, that wall looks awesome.
Ha, another shot of Mega Ohm.
Squaw Leap, V3. Secret beta, use a strip of tape on each hand, don't need a full glove.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 16, 2016 - 09:36am PT
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Thanks Justin. That Squaw Leep stuff looks rad.
Craig, I think it was a little earlier, maybe '86/'87?
It is wild how much the "ground" varies there depending Malibu Creek flow. I have seen it go up or down 6-8 feet over the last 30 years.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jan 16, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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Me on Bird Nest Traverse, Revenue Flats Montana. I do believe I have the FA. :-)
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