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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Drive up the paved road. Buy some food at the store. Load up on water. Get a coffee, drive some more, dodge the tourists. gear up with high tech climbing equipment, Listen to a car alarm, complain that a bolt has ruined your 'wilderness' experience....
Stop mid-pitch, whip out smart phone, complain on SuperTaco...
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MikeMc
Social climber
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^^^ Don't forget the selfie.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Marcus McCoy from somewhere over the rainbow...
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The question is simply where do you draw the line, fallacies of argumentation notwithstanding.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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It's been quite a long time, hasn't it, since Kurt Smith's professional climbing career came to an abrupt and dramatic end for power drilling in the same park. Hoping for better judgement to prevail here on both sides, I'm not impressed at the moment with either.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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My two cents: adding a mid-pitch bolted anchor to an existing climb for any purpose other than to save someone's life during a rescue is a really bad idea that goes against all commonly accepted American climbing ethics.
And really, aid-climbing practice? Read a book, load a bag, hump it to the base of a wall, and go up. You'll get plenty of practice. And you either will or won't finish on top. And if you really do want to practice, pick a free climb and practice aid climbing on it. Just don't drill any bolts or bang any pins.
Is this not common knowledge?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Weak sauce!!!
Anyone chop these yet or do i have to fly down there and do it myself??
Erik- new anchor in the middle of a established pitch dude!? Give your head a shake bro.
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Frozenwaterfalls
Ice climber
California
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When a friend and I got some lessons on hauling and aid leading, we humped a couple of giant haul bags of gear to very obscure cracks up in Tuolumne so as to not be in anyone's way. If you are taking an aid class and are too damn lazy to hump a pig more than 2 ft from the car, how the heck do you think you are going to get several to the base of El Cap and back down again? I rarely follow all the bolt wars, but I have to admit that this addition of "anchors" really pisses even me off. Just smacks of extreme laziness and disregard for the entire climbing community.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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I making this Select book because climbers here, after seeing my bigwall book, asked me to put out a decent select book.
Personally, I will NEVER, EVER buy a guidebook or product associated with Erik Sloan.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I'd steal one of those biners so fast it'll make your head spin, nanooks or not. I'm from the hood you just don't leave in situ pro that shiny.
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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According to IMDb, Erik has a bit part in a genre-bending hate crime/international espionage/extreme rock climbing film, "Lie Detector". This turkey has been in post since 2012, but is sheduled for release in 2016 (don't hold your breath).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Maybe this some sorta Zionist plot ... More likely he's an ISIS sympathizer, or operative.
Are public hangings still legal in California?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Darth Sloan. I'm pretty sure he is Sith.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Personally, I will NEVER, EVER buy a guidebook or product associated with Erik Sloan.
Yes, it has come to that.
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WBraun
climber
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It's not just the old guard that is into it, though, the newer climbers like ...the YOSAR crew
EriK
I'm sorry but you just can't say this.
The YOSAR crew consists of so many people including the Valley District Ranger, and all Yosemite Nat. Park LEO.
YOSAR is a branch of NPS Law enforcement protection division.
And "THEY" all all agree with you?
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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I disagree with the sentiment that one can always pass bolts if they don't approve of them. That notion implies,to some, their right to place them anywhere..."no harm, no foul". On a separate note I recently witnessed an older fellow (the original Mad Bolter)driving pins on Church Bowl Tree. A young climber offered that cams would work as well. He defended his actions by suggesting, "I'm doin my own thing". These are examples of age stereotypes being reversed. Both disregard respect for the environment and one's own community.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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You don't know the half, Big Mike! I heard he pink pointed the aid climb and claimed it as an onsight!
And then he named his "new" aid route Inferno.
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PolishClimber
Trad climber
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The things people will do and say to make a few bucks...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Ed has engaged with nanOOk over on the MP.com thread concerning his negative commentary on the guidebook-in-progress.
Good luck being reasonable or logical with nanOOk, Ed.
The dude is pretty self-involved and crazier than rat sh*t in a pistachio factory from what I've seen of his behavior and rationalization for his actions.
I wouldn't buy ANYTHING that had that nutcase even remotely attached to it. Unless it was a big ass crowbar.
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