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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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OK for reference, AND because I just plain like the shot.
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Friend
climber
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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Thanks guys. The big three Bachar finger cracks were major lifetime achievement goals for sure, and they do not disappoint. Each one is best in class. So psyched.
I am not a great writer, but I can recognize great writing. I always thought this post from BVB spoke volumes. +1, Holmes.
Oh, and while I'm at it, if anyone reading this thread hasn't read Bob's Premium Miniatures article, you best get on it. Read it, know it, live it. You are responsible for knowing this material. There will be a test and it will be closed-book.
The annual Woodson threads over the last 5 years or so have tons of info, beta, stories and inspiration.
Now I'm getting rolling. LearningTrad shared a sweet video of the Robbins Crack upthread (way to go dude), and Skcreidc reposted a classic shot of Eeyonkee on the Crucible. I remember eeyonkee's original thread both for those awesome pictures and for what might be my favorite piece of supertopo writing ever, the FA of Robbins Crack by brunosafari. Again, if you have not read this, why you being so mean to yourself? Drop everything and click this link.
And finally, @Jon Clark - I'm glad the beta was good, or good enough. Perhaps it's a stretch to post a link to your tale of sending the Bachar-Yerian on a Woodson thread, but it's a brilliant and incredibly motivational piece, and since you've done more hard Woodson soloing than most San Diego locals - to say nothing of Philly locals (?!) - I'm just gonna go with it. Hope to bump into you next time you're out this way.
Cheers all, see you on The Hill
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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The big three Bachar finger cracks were major lifetime achievement goals for sure, and they do not disappoint. Each one is best in class. So psyched.
Hear My Train, Drivin' South, and???
Sorry missed everyone, had some health issues :(
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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Friend,
Great post, and love the DS video. Blows me away watching guys climb those hard woodson finger cracks. We got on Yoav 1 today, several rungs lower but a blast in its own right. Hope to run into you soon, we caught up with JW and JW junior today as we left, apparently a couple new eggs got hatched. Some shots from today, yet another beautiful day surrounded by fantastic climbing.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:30pm PT
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What is with those huge crowds?! Some kind of event?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:38pm PT
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profile pics for tinder
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:49pm PT
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Jesus F*#king Christ. How long ago did this nonsense start?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 11, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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BVB, maybe 5 years ago when someone posted it as part of a "bucket list". And now the people who come up the paved road to the "chip" tend to be the least prepared, and literally leave sh!t and toilet paper strewn all over the place. Sometimes under what you want to climb. Rank, period
So you are THAT Jon Clark. I could not quite place the name, but I read your piece on the B-Y maybe 4-5 times. Super inspiring to say the least. One of the all time best on Supertopo.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Jan 11, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Friend,
It'd be great to run into you on the hill sometime. I've been visiting Woodson 5 or so times a year since 2008 and have only met a couple of climbers in that time. Unfortunately, I've never run into anyone from the site at Woodson. Maybe next time.
Edited to add: What is the third of the three Bachar finger cracks?
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Jan 11, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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3rd bachar crack is likely Cal Night.
a few other good fingers:
Digits
Cat crack
Starving in stereo (below the crux)
Fall semester
spring break?
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Friend
climber
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Jan 11, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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Hey Greg and Jon
I've always understood Bachar's signature contributions to be the three splitter finger crack problems named for Hendrix jams:
California Night
Hear My Train A Comin
Driving South
I wasn't around when these problems were established, but I know a handful of contributors and lurkers were. These climbs are 40 years old and they're still milestones, to this day, for anyone who scrapes their way up them. I love reading firsthand comments and recollections from folks active during those years, and I'd love to read more (hint, hint)
Also, I definitely should have included Truthdweller's Cali Night and Hear My Train clips in my post yesterday. I've certainly studied these two thoroughly enough. Very inspiring, Truth!
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Friend
climber
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Jan 11, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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Wow. That strikes a deep nerve.
F*CK it all man. Why did you have to die. I might have a tear in my eye right now. Maybe it’s a dust particle.
It’s been dusty here lately.
RIP JB.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 11, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
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Also, I definitely should have included Truthdweller's Cali Night and Hear My Train clips in my post yesterday.
Holy crap if somebody had a video of me trying to boulder Hear My Train looking THAT scared and shaky and apologizing to god and jebus for getting myself into such a mess the *last* place I'd want to see it is the internet! It's like somebody wrote a script for Largo's "The Only Blasphemy" and made it into a movie. Yikes.
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Friend
climber
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Jan 11, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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Hahahahaa BVB - at first I figured, he's just slandering but, uh... yeah...
I've actually never watched that clip with the audio on for more than a few seconds. Try it on mute. Whole different ambiance.
Edit: htf did you watch that whole thing withOUT muting it?!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jan 11, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
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Just reading these posts makes me want to fly back and just walk up the mountain with someone...*sigh*
Johnny "berger"...pads on DS? Sheesh, I thought bailing at the lip and nearly slamming your chest on the ground was what wanna-be "hardmen" had to go through on that sickness. I remember being up there alone one day when R. Piggot showed up just as I bailed from the crux, and after spitting the dirt out my mouth, I looked up and saw Rick who said, "Sorry about that man." I was alone as well when I finally soloed it.
Friend, I sort of "jumped ship" by posting climbing videos, for "beta" just wasn't acceptable when I started climbing ('81), not forgetting to mention speaking while someone was climbing! You just didn't do those things. When Youtube became popular, I succombed because I didn't have much patience when learning climbing sequences and was always looking for a shortcut. So, I thought videos would be the ticket for those suffering from the same ailment. Amen that you're studying them! Thank God for the crew that motivated me back then and that I looked up, for my successes really belong to them that labored first; Rick Piggot, Greg Epperson, Bob Van Belle, Ron Amick, Ray Olsen, the Almadovar brothers, et al.
The last I soloed IHMT was for that video back in late 2011, just before I moved back east at (49) years young. Now, over the last three years, I've been sedentary and have atrophied more than I've ever been in my life. My "fix" now comes from the "pull" I experience from my turbocharged 2004 Mitsubishi Sportback Ralliart.
When I do come home, I'd be content on just being a consummate guide, commentator, or belay slave for one of you...that would be just fine.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Jan 12, 2015 - 04:56am PT
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Didn't realize Cali Night was a JB FA. The three Bachar finger cracks are all classic and all balls hard.
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