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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 22, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Jan, Folini says that Everest was never closed by the 'authorities' and goes
on with some mumbo jumbo about since his is a civilian helo it was OK to
fly them up there. He also says he tried to talk them out of it but a guy
has to make a buck. OK, I added that last phrase.
BTW, Weidlich sprayed "My ascent of Everest will go on with or without ladders."
(but not without a helocopter)
"I refuse to give in to the pressure of the Everest mafia." LOL!!!
YOU GO GIRL! FIRE UP THAT HELO!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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Still no word on how the rogue girls are doing up there.
Meanwhile, an Indian woman climber who had already done Everest, Lhotse, and Kangchenjunga, and two Sherpas, were killed in an avalanche on 8,505 meter Yalung Kang, also known as Kangchenjunga west.
That brings the total of Sherpas killed in avalanches this year to 18.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
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Himalayan News is reporting that Wang Jing and four Sherpas have successfully summited Everest from the southside after the Sherpas fixed rope up the Hillary steps for her. She succeeded in reaching the top only at 6:20 pm so it must have taken her almost 18 hours and she may be in a very bad condition. It is reported that three Sherpas are bringing her gear down to Camp 2 above the icefall and two are helping her down.No reports on how they plan to get back down the icefall with the ladders removed. Another helicopter ride perhaps?
"The Ministry of Tourism is currently gathering information about Wang Jing's successful ascent of Mt Everest, and will make a formal statement tomorrow".
And now the politics get really interesting!
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 23, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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Thanks Jan for the updates!
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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May 23, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
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And driving into Yosemite to within just a few feet of the base of the climb is equally poor style.
You walk to Yosemite i take it??
Um, is anybody taking rides on Everest to camp 4?
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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May 23, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Himalayan News is reporting that Wang Jing and four Sherpas have successfully summited Everest from the southside after the Sherpas fixed rope up the Hillary steps for her. She succeeded in reaching the top only at 6:20 pm so it must have taken her almost 18 hours and she may be in a very bad condition. It is reported that three Sherpas are bringing her gear down to Camp 2 above the icefall and two are helping her down.No reports on how they plan to get back down the icefall with the ladders removed. Another helicopter ride perhaps?
I'm no expert, but isn't 6:20 awfully late to arrive at the summit?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
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It is ironic that the first Everest ascent of the season was a helicpter ascent. There should be several more normal ascents from the north side in the next day or two.
It's also reported that Cleo Weidlich was last seen at Camp 3 which is the departure point for Lhotse.
Alan Arnette says it's rumored that Wang Jing paid for 20 trips to ferry supplies above the icefall - at $2,000 each.
The fact that the Nepalese authorities are now taking it in stride after threatening Russel Brice with a fine and banning for 5 years indicates a number of interesting trends.
1) It is highly likely the Chinese Embassy interceded.
2) The officials are probably angry at the Sherpas and their solidarity stance.
3) The officials want to preserve the idea of an open Everest at any cost (in order to preserve the income).
4) The outfitter that took care of Wang Jing's logistics and supplied the Sherpas is Nepalese.
5) This is probably the beginning of helicopter ascents and the beginning of the end for western guide services.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2014 - 02:46am PT
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So now maybe Everest at least is developing something similar to the difference between trad climbing and sport climbing? Helicopters equal hang dogging?
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The guy above
climber
Across the pond
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May 24, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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It is ironic that the first Everest ascent of the season was a helicpter ascent.
That wasn't an "everest ascent" and there isn't such a thing as a "helicopter ascent"...
If we want to be pedantic we could term it an "everest summit", but skipping over 1/3rd of a route because you don't have the skills, logistics, strength, will, or whatever required to do it is not an ascent of the route/mountain.
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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May 24, 2014 - 10:04am PT
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She made sure to leave plenty of o2 tanks up there as well, like hansel and gretel with the bread crumbs, as the Sherpas dragged her to the summit. Word is she planted a flag on one of the corpses up near the top.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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May 24, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Goran Kroop soloed the Icefall in 1996 in his summit attempt. There is a great film on his adventure.
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raymond phule
climber
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May 24, 2014 - 11:18am PT
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Goran Kroop soloed the Icefall in 1996 in his summit attempt.
No, he didn't.
He soloed it the first time he was up the mountain, turned around and walked down the standard ice fall route. I believe that he used the standard ice fall route on all his other climbs above base camp.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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May 24, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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Kroop turned around in sight of the summit because unlike the "Into Thin Air" people he had the sense to stick to a time schedule.
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The guy above
climber
Across the pond
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May 24, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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What are they based on? Pure racism?
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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May 24, 2014 - 11:49am PT
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Questions of racism aside, Wang did employ 5 Sherpas to reach the summit.
Maybe someone should interview them to find out what actually took place.
“Da Gyalje Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Nuru Sherpa, Lakpa Gyalje Sherpa and Pasang Dawa Sherpa assisted her to the summit,”
Sometimes it's useful to read the articles:
“Wang and her staff may arrive back to Camp 2 tomorrow. Three Sherpas are bringing down the logistics and equipment, while two are helping her to descend,”
According to him, she was with seven Sherpas — five climbing guides and two cooks. “Sherpas fixed the ropes at the Hillary Step for her summit. There was a very clear weather throughout the day.”
Sources said Wang had chartered over a dozen chopper flights to prepare for the summit and she had very deep pockets to help fund her. “She offered hefty sum to Sherpas and purchased more than 8,000m of rope.”
EDIT: I could be wrong, but apparently eating isn't that important, since the cooks names aren't mentioned. I wonder what happened to the 8,000m of rope. Perhaps it will be cut up and sold in pieces as momentos, so that the Daddy Warbucks' can recoup their investment?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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using a helicopter to bypass a dangerous section
Let us know!