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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Nov 15, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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"Of course in person he's a fun, likable, regular guy." Or so sayeth Crunch.
Bottom line I think this is the nub of the "Jim Beyer problem." (That's a parody on Hitler's various "problems" with the ethnicities and Beyer has made it easy to fit him with this shoe). He is NOT that: likable "in person." I tried to chat him up once and got a cold, impersonal ("you are vermin") brush off. Crunch: what is your data? Does not look like it holds up under the flood of anecdotes herein to the contrary.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 15, 2014 - 11:29am PT
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I first "met" Jim in 1975 when he was soloing Sunshine (not as I have seen reported in 1974) when he was a few hundred meters away from me at Chasm View. Some climbers I knew had met him hiking in and described him as acting "as if he ate nails for breakfast."
The following year I saw him in the Valley in november, and I described my solo slab hauling technique that he put to good use soloing the Dihedral.
The next spring he refused to give me a one day start on my previous project, soloing the Shield and was rewarded with a stormy epic replete with a nearly severed rope.
He was friends with my "brother" Kyle, who likely would have 86ed him had he known of the anti-semitism.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 15, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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When people talk crazy, it's natural to believe they are actually sober and reasonable but for whatever reason, they are acting poorly and are in fact bad people. Truth is they are almost always just crazy. Beyer's climbing is impressive. I was up in the Valley recently and say him inching his way up the Captain. Solo. What he says about all and everything is just not relevant to my life. People get old and cranky. And crazy.
JL
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Nov 15, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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so my buddy and I are walking along the base of the captain this fall, and about 50' up a guy was leading out on a string of taped on hooks. It was kind of a wierd setup cuz his belay was about 30' up the native son crack.
I was just commenting on the oddness when he slowly looks at me and says
"PSYCHO"
I think that he was telling us that he was psycho.
I knew that he was Jim Beyer....whoa!
EE
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Say....is A5cR scarier than just plain ole A5c?
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Nov 15, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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So if A5a rips the entire pitch, does A5b rip the entire pitch more, and does A5c rip the entire pitch more than more, and A5d rip the entire pitch more than more than more?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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A6 must mean the danger of ripping the entire pitch AND pulling your belay or belayer off of the wall. Then i have seen a Beyer route rated A6c......where does that lead us?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 15, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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One more time, the guy may use the rep he has, to advantage, but he is not a good person.
Rule #1= don’t effen phook the place up!
Yes since the late '80's, at least.
He and the reputation of some of his exploits
have been the reason for 'guides'
getting, ‘work’ from weekend warriors.
Cragman I love where you're coming from and June lake as well ((More pics of the dog,and the silver threads of ice growing down the rock))please.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Nov 15, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
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Jeremy said his "A6"belay was bullsh#t, so my previous stands....Eff that guy.
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poliszbob
Mountain climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
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Met guy once back in early 90's. Came across as a drunk as#@&%e, with a body more like of a greyhound buss driver then a climber.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
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Met him about a zillion years ago in camp four, I think maybe Dingus made introductions(?)
He was funny as hell! One story after the other! I think it was after that that he got arrested at Devils Tower, for not registering for a route, and then all these weird stories started coming out.
Just read that piece in Desert Towers, definitely marches to a beat most of us can't hear...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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The wrong Beyer Klaus . . . I do wonder how he funds his constant climbing . . . maybe he's another trustafarian.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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Back when I met him, I thought he was a carpenter...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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Misogynist, anti-semite, arrogant a-hole.....all meant to wound but calling him a trustafarian has truly dire implications.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
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Seriously, anyone that wants some one to die repeating their routes is a threat, a homicidal maniac and a detriment to the climbing community.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Even if " he is most gifted at soloing techno aid climbs."
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Nov 15, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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What if he "can't even"?
This may help.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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klaus,
The article was from the 2001 AAJ. The first climb was 1998 but another was 2000. So age 57 or so.
Like Crusher said, I am not sure if Beyer is serious with his names and ratings, or just trolling and laughing at the reaction they get.
In the AAJ article, it sounds like he was serious - upset with what had happened in his life and glad to escape for some climbs where it was just Man vs. Nature.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 15, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Didn't he also remove the Cookie Monster bolts?
Nope
Coiler ......
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