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motoservo
Big Wall climber
Austin, TX
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Went to climb Left Mendel Couloir (Ice 9) this weekend. Didn't get close enough to really see the condition of the ice but there was lots of it. Got hit with what I assume is the first significant snowfall of the season when we woke up Sunday morning so we had to turn back.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 17, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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Red Slate Mountain's north couloir yesterday -
Simul-soloed with a couple of guys from socal (John and Sean) who happened to get there at the same time. ~6 inches of snow in the couloir from the last storm, so you need a partner just to help break trail :)
But there was still some ice & neve exposed, making for a fun climb. The left turn about 3/4 of the way up led to three sub-chutes with some fun & easy mixed. Top out is literally yards from the summit.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Oct 18, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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Rhyang - congrats on getting Red Slate before more snow fell. Nice pic! Thanks for the update on conditions.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Oct 30, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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would love to get on some alpine ice one week from today... maybe the recent snowfall will have blown/melted off (four or five days of sunny high-pressure forecast)
anyone got fresh beta?
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Bad Climber
climber
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Oct 30, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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Great photo of Red Slate! That makes a fine solo. I've done most of the classic couloirs in the Sierras, and for my taste, when the angle isn't that steep, I prefer doing them in early season, snowy conditions. I've done the right Mendel three times, always somewhat early season. This means the easy angled stuff is solid neve/step kicking, and the steep narrow part is nice ice. I've also seen some spectacular rock fall down the N. face of Mendel, too. I'm not kidding--HOUSE-sized boulders roaring into the basin, clouds of dust. We could easily make out the different facets of the monster chunk as it spun down the wall. We were camped on the opposite side of the valley below Lemark Col. On that trip, we climbed Darwin instead!
BAd
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Oct 30, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
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powder!
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PeteC
climber
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Oct 30, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
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ignore powderdan. he says that about 100 times a day. it's like Tourette's Syndrome.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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unsettled weather bump
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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powder!!!
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PeteC
climber
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see what I mean..
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NMR
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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With the impending opening of Tioga Pass I am curious what some of these routes look like this time of year. I know the alpine ice conditions wouldn't be present but, for example, would the Dana couloir be an enjoyable snow climb in May? Or will it just be too warm wet snow?
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NMR
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 29, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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Bump?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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would anyone know how the current snow pack is likely to affect the usual suspects (U-Notch, Mendel, etc.) over summer into fall? perhaps this would be a good year (for a change) to get out the tools?
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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It could be a good year for fall ice, or maybe even "too easy." The last big Sierra snow year, 2011, I did Feather, North, and Red Slate, and all were mostly fun névé.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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bump
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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This one should be more popular. It's on the left side of the north face of Humphreys, and links up to the East Ridge at the big notch where the rock climbing starts. It's easy, but it eliminates all the slogging on the east ridge, making for a much more enjoyable ascent.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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we're skiing them now,
long slog in due to road closures for snow but road progress every day. loose wet everywhere last week, corn this week, snowed this weekend
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Where were you at Mo?
We were out at mt. Gilbert, nevahbe ridge and mt. Warren. The bit of snow shut us down yesterday. Couloirs are fat now. The conness area is unrecognizable.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 20, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
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has anyone been up in the evolution range recently? looking for a localized assessment of snowpack on Mount Mendel...
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