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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jan 26, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
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Went up to the Hogs Back on Mt. Hood. No summit today.
Plaid
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Bob and I are done with the 10 sessions of power training on the Grotto Ceiling Systems Simulator and will begin the endurance phase. We added a vertical wall close by to the low end of the ladder so we could climb from the 10 deg overhanging gym wall to the bottom of the ladder. The climb off the top ladder end to the gym wall was already accessible. Now we can climb loops.
A typical workout:
1 loop using easy ladder holds to warm up.
3 min rest
2 loops no stopping with a more difficult set of holds
3 min rest
3 loops no stopping with a most diffcult set of holds on ladder
3 min rest
4 loops no stopping any combo of holds
This is 440 feet of climbing! Counting ends maybe 500'
This climbing is done without adding any weights -- no power routine here, just hanging on and moving.
We also sawed a 12 deg incut 1 inch wide hold on the stair rail stock to make a uniform set of holds that had a size between the ladder lip and the small crimpers. The ladder lip holds are quite difficult because they are thumbs toward the feet or cross armed and neither of these positions affords the best wrist angle to learn this hold set if you can barely do one cycle.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
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more burpees and weights
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Mapping out my ride tomorrow on RideGPS only to have it lose it more than once. The aggro was like a workout. Tomorrow will be better as long as no flat(s).
Susan
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:48pm PT
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1:40 on the mtn bike. Swapped parts on my old CAAD2 hartail to take it from a commuter back to a XC singletrack destroyer and took if for a shakedown.
Ended up with a nice longish warmup climb, then intervals riding the obstacles, a nice 130bpm paced loop, then a screaming downhill bomb back to the car.
Forgot how much I enjoy mtn biking and ended up riding far longer than I'd planned (only planned a quick 30min..needed to go grocery shopping)
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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The weather forecast for Guernsey changed to much by this a.m. to be expecting good weather. With averted plans today become the first day training on the Endurance Phase of Periodization.
I was able to do the set listed below, no falls but some hedging in that I shifted all my grips to at least one set easier and set rest time equal to wall time.
1 loop using easy ladder holds to warm up.
3 min rest
2 loops no stopping with a more difficult set of holds
3 min rest actually about 5 min.
3 loops no stopping with a most diffcult set of holds on ladder 7:32 min
3 min rest changed to 7 min rest
4 loops no stopping any combo of holds 7:00 min
This set of sessions is not power and some 7 hrs later I do not feel that muscle tear down typical from power workouts. So maybe one day of rest and then back for more endurance. We'll see.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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I've taken up African Dance.
Seriously.
:)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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couple of hours of various and sundry internet punditry. forum members feel the power1111!!!!666
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Ice climbing before and after work.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Got up at 5:30 a.m. so I could be at the trails at 6:30 a.m. for a mt. bike ride with a bud up into Topanga SP (Trailer Canyon to Eagle Rock/Eagle Springs). 1:45, 12 miles, 1,800' up and down. Awesome scenery and good fun. Other than a couple of other hearty souls, we had the place to ourselves.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The gym, weights and stationary bike. Something outside after work today...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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WML,
What is the "Honnold Core workout"?
Can it make me look like this?
 Luke
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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^Is that Paul Ryan?!
campused the understairs repeatedly. when will I be Jaybro strong?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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Scarpelli and I got the gym heated to 28F from some -20F outside by the time we started a new routine. We are done with the endurance sessions. At this point Eric Horst would say rest a week. We skipped the wk of rest. Normally, next would be 4 weeks of general outdoor climbing. ?? in this weather--no way Hosea.
We decided to do 10 circular laps on the Grotto Simulator each using the holds of our choice. My rest time would equal Bob's climbing time. This worked out differently than you might image. For last 3 laps my rest time was zero. Now Bob does not climb at an infinite speed.
1. horns
2. 1" crimps
3. pockets to x-pockets
4. x-pulls to upper ladder lip( a resulting crimp) most strenuous
5. begin 3/8" - 3/4" progressive crimp: most intense on fingers
6. 3/8" progressive crimp again
7 -10. continued in this reverse order. And NO falls.
Climbing length may equal 10 overhanging pitches at 50' each. And this felt like general climbing.
some excitement gained from doing something NEW
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Just got off the road bike. A hard, fast, 6 mile loop hammering all the way. Almost got sick at one point. The weather wasn't nice to ride in today, way humid for here, windy and chilly. My ears and head hurt like a mofo.
This is a deloading week (actually going into the second week of deloading, will start ramping back up the vol and intensity next week).
This week:
Sun - Rode 1hr mtn bike, Sycamore canyon. Basically an intervals workout.
Mon - Hangboard, 7/3 repeaters.
Tues - Goblet squats, slegehammer pronators, rice bucket, scapula retractions with bands
Wed - road bike 30:00 at slightly over AE threshhold pace
Thur - max bouldering
Fri - goblets, pronators, rice bucket, dips, adductors, front levers, etc
Sat - mtn biking
Sun - climbing routes outside.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Bike to nowhere last night, moderate session.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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SuperNova Gym here in Pueblo West - a nice fitness center. I don't like to work out in these places but it's icy and 7 degrees, so can't do my pull-ups outside. Fitness centers rarely have a focus on bodyweight exercises. It may be hard to share a pull-up bar with a weightlifter using the same cage. And hand-traversing the pull-up frame means avoiding all those damned handles sticking out as well as guys doing the pully things on the side!
I did do an outdoor work-out at a local playground a few days ago at 30 degrees with snow covered ground. Gets a little harder as I approach 77, but still exhilarating.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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^^Awesome and inspiring John keep it up!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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elbows hurting pretty bad now. Need a rest day or two, some Vitamin I, and have been icing the elbows.
Get off the I (masking the pain isn't helpful, probably causes you to do more damage by climbing when you shouldn't be. Pain is a useful tool for me, tells me I've done something wrong or overdone it) cut back your volume, add some balance/maintenance work.
For every climbing focused sessions, you should be doing a maintenance session. The best thing I've found for elbow preventatives are a rice buket workout and sledgehammer type pronators doing only the negative of the rep (raise the weight back up with your other hand, and control it on the negative, I actually use a dumbell with the weights off one side rather than a sledge because my shorty sledges aren't heavy enough).
EDIT: By "pronator" I mean rest your forearm on your leg, with your hand oriented vertically/thumb on top like you would shake someone's hand. Grip the end of a dumbell or sledge and lower the weight toward the space between your knees. When the weight bar or sledge handle gets to parallel with the floor, raise it back up to vertical with the other hand and lower. I do 2-3 sets of 15-20 reps. For the rice bucket, look on DPM or Steve Edwards' site, or search youtube for steve edwards rice bucket.
I probably boulder way more than you and had all those elbow problems in my 20s. Haven't had any, even with some months of every-other-day bouldering at my limit. If I negelect these exercises, I feel it starting to creep in.
Hard won experience, stand on the shoulder of those who came before you and all those cliches. It works for me, and it's worked for everyone I train with who has stuck with it. You didn't ask, but that's my $0.02 anyway.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
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We added some 20ft of pvc pipe onto the top side of the ladder to make open hand hold graps. We are using both 2" ID & 3" ID sch 40 pvc pipe. We painted a 2" strip of Bondex Exterior House Stucco on the length of the 3" pvc to make a zone of more friction for those who want less slipperiness.
We no longer use the ladder's rungs even for warm ups.
The workout was 10 laps.
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