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sangoma
Trad climber
south africa
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Feb 20, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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OK this aint NV of CA but this is what we got down here, could spend a lifetime putting up routes on this virgin rock, and this is only one of the canyons (we call them "kloofs")we went up !!!
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Feb 20, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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Excellent, Sangoma!
Today's top-rope first ascent (thanks MiniTraxion!)
About 135', start with 5.6 crack, through a notch, and the rest (that you can't see) is a really fun slab to the anchor.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Feb 20, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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great thread!
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Feb 20, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
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Adventurous One-
So it would seem. . . and are you the one removing hangars? :)
All but one of those pics are in one of the Yuba drainage's, which we've brush-oared into and climbed extensively. A lot of rugged stuff in there, totally worth the beating in my opinion, at least till the next morning.
The single American R shot was taken from across the canyon...NOT the approach. If you know this one you know its attainable from the North. Been to it a few times but everything we found was nauseously loose and vehicular. A good place to disappear if you get my drift.
Certainly potential there, we just got molested.
You climbed that sucker?
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Feb 20, 2014 - 11:17pm PT
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Jingus mulch by swamp in Piedmont area:
Gold Country Bouldering
Cool Sierra County feature
Super Slide on lower S. Yuba. Someone actually climbed this crop.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 20, 2014 - 11:34pm PT
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Devils postpile, two pics up, up toward Downieville. That one is on the maps. Worth the short hike up to the nearby fire lookout too.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 21, 2014 - 12:33am PT
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Haven't brought a rope into either one of those places, just shoes for bouldering around and exploring easy stuff. The "ambiance" at the American River location is a bit creepy, was surprised to even see a photo from across the river. Not sure it warrants the slog back out with rope and gear. "Falcon Crest" location is a place that has intrigued me since my childhood, having grown up down the road in Nevada City. Without giving away the location, how do you approach it? When I was there we approached from upstream. Thought there must be a much easier approach from above? I would love to hear about the routes you have done there. Are there any free climbing options through the, very, impressive roof section? Pm me if you feel like sharing....
Edit: Johnnyrig-we'll have to meet some time...and swap stories/notes of local backcountry choss hunting adventures.....(and maybe some not so chossy local backcountry adventures ;) )
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:22am PT
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I feel like I should know where those areas are, but sadly choss hunting (climbing) is a new thing for me. Only been at it a couple years. Spent plenty of time between Auburn, Nevada City, and up to around Washington, down over toward Foresthill fishing and hunting deer as a kid with my grandfather, and have some interesting (maybe) stories from all that. Just never paid much attention to the rock. Never went prospecting either back then, in some of the richest ground around. Go figure.
I remember the first time I went fishing, down on Wolf Creek. Don't remember how old, but very young. Hiked down several miles from my grandparents house with my granddad, and proceeded to catch a limit of trout. Also hooked my pinky finger to the bone, but the fish made up for it.
Well, the sun went down and the flashlight died. It also started raining. As a cold, wet, lost (granddad was turned around in the dark and the rain too), scared, miserable little kid, I swore from that night forward I'd never get lost again. So far, I've only been lost once or twice since (once in downtown Oakland at 2am, but that's another story). Didn't make it back to the trailer until well after midnight. Boy was grandma worried, and then furious! Crazy old grandpa.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Trusty-
When I was exploring that American River stuff, about 30 years ago, we boulder scrambled/swam upstream (an all day, sun burnt adventure as I recall) from the suspension bridge where we were camped.
Last summer we parked at the trail head, didn't want to take the risk with the gully crossing in the Subaru, and walked down the steep dirt road in search of those cliffs (with shoes but no ropes) until we came to the locked gate with all the no trespassing warnings. Ended up going back to the trail to the suspension bridge to access the river. (The person I was with was "scared" to hop the gate and wouldn't continue) An aggressive, custom built gate in a very remote location in a forested canyon (where the locked gate is)with lots of no trespassing warnings....hmmm...The growers and miners with mining claims can be unfriendly and aggressively protective down there..
Is there another way in?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
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nice le bruce….that canyon looks Long.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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More Nevada stuff from this weekend. Had invited a friend here, but things were just not right on the timing. Took a friend from Sacramento, but his foot bothered him. Also got a three hour late start for a three hour trip out to this location to investigate what might be nothing at all. Turns out there's a lot of rock, not all of which is climbable, but plenty that is. Definitely heading back out to this location in the future.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Very cool. Was wondering how the trip went this morning.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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How big is it John and how long is the approach? Did you actually get to the base of any of the formations?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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Colorado miscellaneous, Bear Creek.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 23, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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The mountain is pretty big, and depending on the rock I'd say there's a couple outcrops that might run 4-500 feet. Some of it was pretty solid, looks like a desert granite/gneiss, and some of it is pretty portable. I dragged my buddy with the lame foot over to some short stuff (not over maybe 150ft) that was close to where we parked, say 5min hike. The taller stuff higher on the mountain would be maybe a half hour uphill hike, but that's a guess. There's definitely potential there, but next time I'm bringing the bolt kit, cause there are some runout slab looking things.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
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So John, can you get another hall pass for early march? The biggest slab thing looks good and I"m getting the bug for obscure new routing? Has our names written all over it. Got four new off road tires and two spares now
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 23, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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It may be possible. But that will depend on logistics with the kids. The pics from our little climb were just a test- 100yds from camp, and my buddy in street shoes. He could hardly walk due to plantar fasciitis or something. Not even a whole pitch. But now i know there is climbable rock.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:30am PT
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Tell me about Alvin McLane.
Anyone read any of his books? In particular, I'd like a look at Silent Cordilleras, and A Bibliography of Nevada Caves. There's another one on Rock art I think I'd like to see as well.
...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 28, 2014 - 03:50am PT
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hey there say, johnnyrig...
wow, i love seeing this again! great bump...
and now:
great new stuff here...
say, i will soon have dial up (chappy is helping me) and--i WILL
BE ABLE to comment of picture soon!!!
saw a few here and i they are really this...
this was a really nice share...
thanks so much!
nothing like the crisp freshness of the greatoutdoors and ROCKS... :)
WELL--maybe trees, we MUST get trees in here too...
and a river or such, ;))
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 28, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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Think I just found a link to the episodes of Wild Nevada he was on. Now to find time to watch them...
and thanks neebee. Glad to know I,ve contributed at least one good thread. Anxious to get back out to my latest discovery.
If I leave my initials and some beer money (say, maybe a tenspot?) on any pin or bolt i might determine necessary on some obscure backcountry choss pile FA, do you think that would be tacky, or just a justifiable sacrifice to the Rock Gods and the second ascent party? heh heh.
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