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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A MacDonald? One of those whiskey-guzzling, sheep-shagging, Gaelic-speaking barbarians? One of the many who made it to Canada, one step ahead of the sheriff?
And don't get me started on them Norskies.
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Jim there are many weaknesses in all my arguments, never the less I do love to argue
Anders I am the abandonded at birth son of a Hungarian geologist refugee, left on a scottish doorstep
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Jim I have 2 days worth of pain killers left, but am hooked up to a really nifty unit circulating cool water around the knee that is doing wonders for the swelling. 20 staples to be removed on the 20th. I can post up some hideous pictures if you like ?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Well, you could circulate the photos, if you like. So to speak. Hope it's not too painful and awkward, that the T3s and lack of motion aren't causing intestinal dysfunctioning, and that you have enough.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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There doesn't seem a lot more to be said about tube chocks, given the history provided by Glenn and Doug. It does suggest that standards and innovation weren't so very different around North America then, despite the distance, and that some impressive although perhaps little-noticed climbs were being done here. It's not like Squamish was the centre of the climbing universe, but still...
It would be nice if, having shown that tube chocks (of a sort) were used in Squamish in 1966, we could go on to show that hexes, stoppers, penicillin, smarties, slacklining, and the single transferable ballot were also invented in Squamish. But it seems a stretch, even for the most parochial.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 10, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
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I recall walking into a campsite in J Tree with a #3 big bro stuck down the left leg of my Prana pants
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Oct 15, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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Hey, for some reason I hadn't seen this thread since Tricouni (or Chief, for that matter) posted to it. Nice to hear from the first ascensionist and creator of those tube chocks. Seeing them brought on an instant recognition and flashback (I treasure those moments, because I don't always remember the past so well).
I gotta say, I just read Mike Hengeveld's Offwidth 8 part series from start to finish. Sheesh, that's writing I could only aspire to. My wife and I were in tears from Part III on.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 15, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Get a little jiggy with the button on the #3 and it could have given new meaning to the word "sprung!"
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 15, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
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There is still the interesting question as to when Pipeline had its second ascent, unless Greg's was the second ascent.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 16, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 16, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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Whenever I get around to finally noticing a thread like this,
well, I don't have energy to read the whole thing, and I wish I could
be clear in the details that, yes we were using tube chocks of a sort
as far back as about '65... nothing refined, rather crude... I don't
think I liked them and hardly did use any, but people had them. I think
I recall thinking it was a way to get around leading a scary pitch, and
a part of me liked the idea but another part thought we were trying to
keep from rising to the level of the climb... or something... Then a few
years later I saw some version that had a telescopic effect and could be
greatly enlarged almost to full chimney size.... well, not quite...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So Tricouni and I were talking about obscure climbs and their history tonight, as we sometimes do. He referred to a photo and description of a climb in Culbert's "Alpine Guide to Southwest B.C." (1974). I got looking at other climbs on the cliff, and saw Dick's comment about Pipeline:
"..winds up in a rather serious crack which was aided originally with 6 1/2 - 8 inch sections of aluminum pipe. The route has not been repeated ATP, but the Pipeline crack has been climbed free to its final overhanging nose, and is very demanding."
The photo shows the crack as being graded 5.6, 5.9 and then near the top at 5.10, followed by an A4 bit.
So, who in the world was freeing most of Pipeline pre-1974, not to mention pre-1979, when Greg soloed it? Al Givler? Gordie Smaill? Hugh Burton or Steve Sutton?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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wide bump
tricouni- the bolts still there or has been replaced and people thank god for it whenever they lead pipeline!
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